/ Cost Blanca

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David Coley - on 27 Dec 2012
First of all a big thank you to Rich and Sam and all those at the Orange House for looking after me last week. Great place, as always.

Secondly, why do so few visitors to the area do so little of the long trad routes? There is a massive amount, and the potential for stacks more. My question is: is this because most people are in holiday sports mode, or because the pitch-by-pitch detail about the trad routes is a little thin in the rockfax and the states of the belays not well described? Thanks.
Fraser on 28 Dec 2012
In reply to David Coley:

> Secondly, why do so few visitors to the area do so little of the long trad routes?

Personal preference.
sarahjk - on 28 Dec 2012
In reply to David Coley:
> First of all a big thank you to Rich and Sam and all those at the Orange House for looking after me last week. Great place, as always.
>
> Secondly, why do so few visitors to the area do so little of the long trad routes? There is a massive amount, and the potential for stacks more. My question is: is this because most people are in holiday sports mode, or because the pitch-by-pitch detail about the trad routes is a little thin in the rockfax and the states of the belays not well described? Thanks.

I am heading out in Feb, staying at the Orange House, cant wait, hear so much good stuff about it, and yes, they are super helpful in setting it up.

I prefer to climb trad, but as it is my first trip to climb there, and will not have a regular partner, am looking at either sport or maybe guided trad until I feel confident in the area [and myself!]. Will take some basic trad gear, so the option will be there if it looks good by the end of the week, fingers crossed.
Chris the Tall - on 28 Dec 2012
In reply to David Coley:
Hi Dave

What did you climb ?

I've always done a least one all day trad route on my trips on my trips there, but I guess most people are relunctant to take a trad rack when you have limited luggage allowance

PS Very jealous, it's been miserable back here in the UK and I could do with some sun !!
Sam Mayfield - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to David Coley:

Ah thanks Dave it was great to see you again x

I guess alot of people just have no idea how much and how good the trad is. We will be working hard on a new mini guide to some great trad routes which people can download.

Also the luggage allowance might have something to do with it, although heading off to any European destination to climb big walls etc would need to take a heavy bag and you can split with a mate, so not sure if that is a problem or not.

PS we got the house and land in Sella so plenty more sport routes on the way!!!

Sam Orange
full stottie on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to David Coley:

I doubt its not a simple either/or, although both factors you mention are in play I reckon.

Just a matter of changing times, changing nature of the climbing population, - a 'shifting paradigm'. I've enjoyed sport and trad in Spain and hope to continue with both as long as the body allows. What matters I suppose is everyone having fun, and does everyone know how much fun there is to be had?
David Coley - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to full stottie:
> (In reply to David Coley)
>....and does everyone know how much fun there is to be had?

I think they might not. I see a few posts on UKC asking for winter trad, and the Blanca might be the answer given enough routes fully checked out and detailed UK-style route descriptions.
David Coley - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Chris the Tall:
> (In reply to David Coley)
> Hi Dave
>
> What did you climb ?


No idea. Rich just took me places. You free for Morocco in the Spring?

Chris the Tall - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to David Coley:
Prefer Ariege - I've just got the guidebook, but not had chance to look at it yet
In reply to Chris the Tall:
>
> Prefer Ariege - I've just got the guidebook, but not had chance to look at it yet

Good choice!

Chris

;-)
Robert Durran - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to David Coley:
> Secondly, why do so few visitors to the area do so little of the long trad routes?

Because we have loads of good trad climbing in the UK. Spain is for clipping bolts as far as most people are concerned.
Sam Mayfield - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

You do you great routes in the UK but you dont have the weather to match!

I will make it my mission for 2013 to spread the trad word!

Sam Orange
Dave Bond - on 31 Dec 2012

>
> PS we got the house and land in Sella so plenty more sport routes on the way!!!
>

Are you going to open accommodation in Sella?

Cheers

Dave
Sam Mayfield - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Dave Bond:

Not Sella village but at the crag.

Should be ready to take bookings in a few weeks.

Sam
Dave Bond - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Sam Mayfield:
Wo hoo! will you offer airport pick up?

Won't be able to get away until November but I'm really keen for a trip then.

Good luck with the venture
Dave Bond - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Dave Bond:
PS. I take it its not the old refugio that you have?
David Coley - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Chris the Tall:
> (In reply to David Coley)
> Prefer Ariege - I've just got the guidebook, but not had chance to look at it yet

Sounds like a date.
Sam Mayfield - on 01 Jan 2013
In reply to Dave Bond:


No not the refugio, closer to the rock. Photos on orangehouse facebook page.

Sam
In reply to Sam Mayfield:

Oddly enough I have just placed a photo of the sign at the bottom of that track to illustrate the chapter on access!


Chris
Sam Mayfield - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

We will leave the sign as we don't want cars coming up our track, routes will take a while to bolt anyway, Rich did new one yesterday called "news years day" oddly enough.

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