UKC

anyone been out lately?whats it like atm?going in 2 weeks,cant wait!!

In reply to tom.fox: What it's like now might bear no relationship to what it's like in two weeks. A few years ago I climbed the same climb twice within a three week window and it felt like a different climb. Good quality ice appeared where there had previously been neve on pitch 3/4 and the first pitch was almost totally banked out. Bolts appeared which had presumably been covered with snow and others were now under 2 foot of snow and I only dug them out because I knew they were there. Go figure.

Rest assured it is one of the more reliable ice climbing venues.

In reply to GridNorth: just found this site-conditions do seem a tad variable atm!
http://www.iceclimbingcogne.com/

In reply to tom.fox:
Right so Lillaz Gully sounds ok higher up. How about the 1st pitch of the Cascade is that passable at the moment ?
I'm off there in a few days and just want to get an idea of the state of play. (Yes I know things can change)
Has anyone been up anything else in either valley ?

In reply to Tim Bateman: forecast looking good on accu weather Tim.good overnight freezes with nice temps in day.I will be on the ice this time next week with any luck!

In reply to tom.fox: Yeah looks like its getting a bit colder in the daytime which is good and the avalanche situation is low/moderate at the moment. Will be catching an early flight on Friday so will checkout the Cascade in the afternoon all being well. Will be there until the next Wednesday so may see you in bar Lincone !

In reply to Tim Bateman: If you are able to would you post a comment about conditions whilst you are there please. I'm heading out next week

In reply to puppythedog: No problem, will keep you posted

In reply to tom.fox: Most stuff is in good nic, we just came back and it was great. Stella Artice, Tuborg, Coyote, all being climbed

In reply to saclimber2000: Everything a little lean but all good. Just done cold couloir which was excellent. Also done Monday Money, lillaz gully (a little bit more mixed than usual), cascade de lillaz and vertigine porcelana.

In reply to Tim Bateman: Lillaz gully had 2 mixed pitches when we climbed it a few years ago. I think it was the 3rd pitch that was bare and a lot harder than the original mixed pitch. Thought Vertigino porcellano was a bit of a sandbag...

In reply to Ian Black: Lillaz gully has 7 pitches if you count the plod up the snow slope after the 1st pitch as pitch 2 and 3. Normally the only mixed bits are on the 6th pitch and a scramble round the big block near the top of the 1st pitch. At the moment(Sun 13/1/13) both are fine, there is ice in the chimney right up to the top of the 6th pitch which is hardly mixed at all. The difference is the steep bit on the 5th pitch is missing 2/3 metres of ice so its a traverse out left into a crack that can take friends(medium) and a few tree routes to get past it. Not too bad though and by now has probably improved.

In reply to Tim Bateman: It may well have been the 3rd or 4 th pitch as it was a few years back. Just remember it being far more technical than the 4+ given for the 6th pitch.

In reply to tom.fox: One of my work colleagues is there presently. Conditions look really good.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10200329534186833&set=pcb.10200...