/ Scottish winter conditions

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kenneM - on 29 Dec 2012
With MWIS talking about a big thaw coming early in the NY what are likely options (depending on the freezing level)? Was originally planning a few days on the west coast but east now looks best - does anyone know what Lochnagar is looking like - would love to get a ascent of Polyphems Gully?

Also anyone been up looking at Creag meagaidh? Had a friend who had a look before Xmas and said options were looking possible but did the rain this week strip it all away?

Thanks

Mike
AlH - on 29 Dec 2012
In reply to kenneM: The Wand was climbed today by one of the Instructors from Glenmore Lodge. Some Post Face Routes 'just' in.
Andy Nisbet - on 29 Dec 2012
In reply to kenneM:

It's a guess but I'd have thought Polyphemus would be in good nick.
kenneM - on 29 Dec 2012
In reply to kenneM: Great thanks for the beta - had a mate on the Ben today and said conditions were not great so it'll be East coast / Central Highlands. Fingers crossed the thaw isn't as bad as expected!
Cuthbert on 29 Dec 2012
In reply to kenneM:

We did Belhaven today which was quite snowy.
AlH - on 29 Dec 2012
In reply to kenneM: I was on Ben Nevis today and the snow is still soft and crusty lower down. Quite a bit of ice has however survived the thaw. There is stuff to be done.
kenneM - on 29 Dec 2012
In reply to AlH: How was Point 5 or any of the other ice routes on Orion Face looking?
AlH - on 29 Dec 2012
In reply to kenneM: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/back-to-work-but-benign-on-ben-nevis.html First pic and you know as much as me. Bear i mind that all that is white may not be ice and I didn't see any I would describe as fat.
jas wood - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to AlH: Thanks for the updates

AlH - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to jas wood: No worries. It sounds like plenty of snow coming in on strong winds today. Nevis Range is closed but with 70mph winds at top and some very big fresh snowdrifts. We'll see what the next thaw does to it all.
jas wood - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to AlH: Fingers crossed for next weekend, I'm needing it !
mikekeswick - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to kenneM: Just got back from Nevis...we had zero visibility, 100mph winds and soft snow.....woohoo!
purplemonkeyelephant - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to kenneM:

Not sure why people don't use these more?

http://www.mwis.org.uk/webcams.php?cam=1
kenneM - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant: Now thinking about changing our plans completely and not bothering at all. MWIS saying freezing levels non existent on Wed - anyone got a more optimistic forecast?

Learning to aid climb in the Peaks has been suggested as an alternative to winter climbing - a depressing option!
Cuthbert on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to kenneM:

Today certainly blew the cobwebs away. Why not go walking?
bowls - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to kenneM:

Just cancelled ours - Supposed to be in Fort William Weds to Sun - plan was to do grade 1 -3 routes, but looks like all ridges stripped and all easy gullies will either by a sludge trudge and/or be prone to avalanche. - before the snow disappears completely! Depressing but better than getting annoyed! Like another poster says - why not go walking - thought that but that can be done closer to home in Snowdonia..
jhw - on 30 Dec 2012
Rjukan beckons

But it can't be done in a weekend so, er, that's that option out then.

Back to square one and wait 'til February as per normal!
Caralynh - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to kenneM:

My husband is currently in the central highlands attempting to instruct a week long mountaineering intro course. Weather and winds are proving challenging, and while they've managed to get in a bit of basic stuff like axe use, they haven't sumitted anything due to conditions. I usually grumble that my work means I can never join him, but this year it really does sound grim.
Steve Perry - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Saor Alba:
> (In reply to kenneM)
>
> Why not go walking?

A fine alternative and can be done in almost any weather.
jhw - on 31 Dec 2012
It's just like 2011. Meanwhile in Rjukan http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbHExdWg2Zc
ads.ukclimbing.com
kenneM - on 01 Jan 2013
In reply to jhw: What are the chances of grabbing a route on Lochnagar tomorrow morning before this mega thaw sets in? Anyone been up that direction lately?
Alex Willey - on 04 Jan 2013
Warm in the corries today. Snow holding on in the easy gullies. You could have climbed on the crags in rock shoes!

Only got 1 quick photo but it shows the general conditions:

http://www.facebook.com/mountainmomentum
scottie390 - on 09 Jan 2013
Ben Nevis Conditions this morning

http://daviescott.blogspot.co.uk/
scottie390 - on 14 Jan 2013
Glencoe Conditions today on the NE Ridge of Stob Coir Sgreamhach looking to Sron na Lairig and the Lairig Eilde.

http://daviescott.blogspot.co.uk/

a lot of powder been dumped down to ground level in some areas

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