UKC

With MWIS talking about a big thaw coming early in the NY what are likely options (depending on the freezing level)? Was originally planning a few days on the west coast but east now looks best - does anyone know what Lochnagar is looking like - would love to get a ascent of Polyphems Gully?

Also anyone been up looking at Creag meagaidh? Had a friend who had a look before Xmas and said options were looking possible but did the rain this week strip it all away?

Thanks

Mike

In reply to kenneM: The Wand was climbed today by one of the Instructors from Glenmore Lodge. Some Post Face Routes 'just' in.

In reply to kenneM:

It's a guess but I'd have thought Polyphemus would be in good nick.

In reply to kenneM: Great thanks for the beta - had a mate on the Ben today and said conditions were not great so it'll be East coast / Central Highlands. Fingers crossed the thaw isn't as bad as expected!

In reply to kenneM:

We did Belhaven today which was quite snowy.

In reply to kenneM: I was on Ben Nevis today and the snow is still soft and crusty lower down. Quite a bit of ice has however survived the thaw. There is stuff to be done.

In reply to AlH: How was Point 5 or any of the other ice routes on Orion Face looking?

In reply to kenneM: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/back-to-work-but-benign-on-ben-n... First pic and you know as much as me. Bear i mind that all that is white may not be ice and I didn't see any I would describe as fat.

In reply to AlH: Thanks for the updates

In reply to jas wood: No worries. It sounds like plenty of snow coming in on strong winds today. Nevis Range is closed but with 70mph winds at top and some very big fresh snowdrifts. We'll see what the next thaw does to it all.

In reply to AlH: Fingers crossed for next weekend, I'm needing it !

In reply to kenneM: Just got back from Nevis...we had zero visibility, 100mph winds and soft snow.....woohoo!

In reply to kenneM:

Not sure why people don't use these more?

http://www.mwis.org.uk/webcams.php?cam=1

In reply to purplemonkeyelephant: Now thinking about changing our plans completely and not bothering at all. MWIS saying freezing levels non existent on Wed - anyone got a more optimistic forecast?

Learning to aid climb in the Peaks has been suggested as an alternative to winter climbing - a depressing option!

In reply to kenneM:

Today certainly blew the cobwebs away. Why not go walking?

In reply to kenneM:

Just cancelled ours - Supposed to be in Fort William Weds to Sun - plan was to do grade 1 -3 routes, but looks like all ridges stripped and all easy gullies will either by a sludge trudge and/or be prone to avalanche. - before the snow disappears completely! Depressing but better than getting annoyed! Like another poster says - why not go walking - thought that but that can be done closer to home in Snowdonia..

Rjukan beckons

But it can't be done in a weekend so, er, that's that option out then.

Back to square one and wait 'til February as per normal!

In reply to kenneM:

My husband is currently in the central highlands attempting to instruct a week long mountaineering intro course. Weather and winds are proving challenging, and while they've managed to get in a bit of basic stuff like axe use, they haven't sumitted anything due to conditions. I usually grumble that my work means I can never join him, but this year it really does sound grim.

In reply to Saor Alba:

A fine alternative and can be done in almost any weather.

It's just like 2011. Meanwhile in Rjukan http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbHExdWg2Zc&feature=player_embedded

In reply to jhw: What are the chances of grabbing a route on Lochnagar tomorrow morning before this mega thaw sets in? Anyone been up that direction lately?

Warm in the corries today. Snow holding on in the easy gullies. You could have climbed on the crags in rock shoes!

Only got 1 quick photo but it shows the general conditions:

http://www.facebook.com/mountainmomentum

Ben Nevis Conditions this morning

http://daviescott.blogspot.co.uk/

Glencoe Conditions today on the NE Ridge of Stob Coir Sgreamhach looking to Sron na Lairig and the Lairig Eilde.

http://daviescott.blogspot.co.uk/

a lot of powder been dumped down to ground level in some areas