/ UKC fit club 302

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Daniel Heath - on 30 Dec 2012
Ok folks this is the last one from me. (Indefinitely)
Grubes has kindly agreed to take it over in the short term, but everyone please have a think if you could commit to a big chunk of time (eg 6months to a year).
Regardless, the most important thing is that we start the thread and post each week for accountability.


The next couple of weeks should be good with several climbers going on Christmas trips this week.
This week is a good opportunity to reconsider your goals for the new year.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (300) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=531295
Posters:
Deacondeacon – Good work on the 7As
AJM – Looking forward to the trip report!
Jake – Good week. The foundry is mega. Easy to burn out even on jugs.
JimmyKay – Wow suffering a whole week with skin shows the extra effort you managed to squeeze out in the comp. Climb hard in Spain!!!
Kevster – Good luck getting on high 7s in Spain.
NMN – Average week from you, even though 15miles is a good week for most of us. Hope you slip into your previous high volume habits now Christmas is over. Maybe even do some trad? ; )
Mrchewey – Good week then. Well done getting on harder indoor routes. I’m not sure you would have tried a 6b+ on the sharp end last year. Great progress.
Grubes – You sound psyched. You’re selling Almscliff to me, all I need is good weather… Hope you manage to get climbing in the variety of places you want to.
Eagle River – Shame about the illness. Hope you get 7c in three months.
Sankey – Some steady progress over 3 weeks there. Keep training right and good luck in Turkey.
Si_dH – Personally I’ve found the focus of having limited training material at home has made me train harder than at the wall. How did you find it? Keep going with the eating discipline.
Exile – Great week there. Maybe a fresh attempt is needed to bridge the 6% bodyfat gap?
Biscuit – Busy week, even if you feel frustrated at Anak. Well done with intervals. I hate them too but they’re undeniably useful. Remember to try hard ; )
Maria85 – Great variety of stuff, and a big old run on Sunday! Enjoy the running/future races and please don’t get injured 
Curious Yellow – Better than nothing I suppose…!
Nomics4Sale – Good volume there but, if you feel you can try a bit harder, then do that. Try a bit harder in the new year. Happy training.
Mattrm – At least you’re consistent. Keep it all going and keep running.
Ian Bell – Have a great time in Malta
Ali – Family Christmas run, that’s impressive. (and running to work isn’t supposed to feel easy) Good week. I wonder what your aims are for the new year?
Richard – Good week of climbing and training. Hope your calf recovers soon.
Seankenny – Good to see the volume and extra runs.
Ally Smith – Great progress at Parisellas. An 8A on fit club would be pretty cool. Good luck in Turkey.
Annak – Looking forward to hearing how much climbing you got away with!
Oddtoast – I always think toproping features is very worthwhile and a nice change. Hope you’re not planning on 5 rest days a week in the new year ; )
Pork Pie Girl – So much volume as usual from you. Do you have any goals in the new year?
 
Daniel Heath - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Minor error, Here is the link to last week 301

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=532043
deacondeacon - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Daniel for running the fit-club and thanks Grubes for taking over :)
Hope everyone is having a good christmas and managing more climbing and training than me as I have nothing to report for a whole week. I've been travelling all over the uk from Lancaster to the Lizard following the rain with no climbing at all. I'll be back on it in the new year.

STG-back up to Font 7A's on grit (by end of january) (DONE)

MTG-few routes on my wishlist, long johns slab, archangel, the rasp. (by end of april)

LTG- consolidate E4, at least 10 (by the end of 2013)

Mon-Nothing
Tue-Nothing
Wed-Nothing
Thu-Nothing
Fri-Nothing
Sat-Nothing
Sun-Nothing
Si dH - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Hi Dan, afraid not, you are obviously either more motivated than me or have more opportunities/training mechanisms! I havent done any climbing or climbing-specific training since last sunday, and also havent quite managed to keep within my weightw*tchers allowance. However I have managed to pig out less to date than in previous years, and have done lots of short bursts of pressups, leg raises, star jumps etc to keep the metabolism going. Overall I dont feel much fatter than a week ago, so I see that as a positive. I have 4 more days staying with the in laws, so no training and lots of food, then home and back to normal fro this coming Friday.
Si
Daniel Heath - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

One of the best weeks for me. I've really got hooked on the home training and eating.

Monday
am:
Andy's Pull ups challenge - pretty poor 45 with sets falling apart near the end. Slow wide grip pull ups
One arm Press ups
pm:
3m slow run

Tuesday
Repeaters
5 x 20 Squat Jumps

Wednesday
am:
Offset Pull ups
Close arm Press ups
pm:
2.6m slow run

Thursday
am:
Repeaters on pull up bar (openhanded)
7/3 seconds 3 min on/off for 5 sets.
Finished all the sets which is a great marker for improvement, as last year I was far off it. All the circuits paid off!
One arm Press ups 5 x 8 each arm

Friday
am:
Offset and wide grip pull ups
Close arm Press ups
pm:
Repeaters

Saturday
am:
HIIT 8x250m sprints
pm:
one arm press ups working up to 3x10 reps
wide arm press ups

Sunday
am:
repeaters on my solitary campus rung screwed on the wall outside, improving steadily

Maintaining 65-66kg fairly well. Food plan is working.
Daniel Heath - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Reflection:

Last year I thought I could do a one arm pull up.
I plateaued pretty hard and didn't have the dedication to train through it.

However my endurance has moved on a lot, and I think this will pay off when I get the chance to climb outdoors.

My confidence in movement on rock increased over summer with some much bolder routes/solos than I expected.

This year's goals:
Big E5s like White Wall, Jermyn St, Adiod Amigo (and maybe some outside Millstone)

Do a few weeks of finger strength, while still training endurance.

10% bodyfat. More importantly, No binging.
Ali - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Hi Dan, thanks very much for the update, and for doing Fit Club! I'm a bit reluctant to take it on, as I'm often not around on Sundays and don't really have time, but could prob do the odd week if I'm around...

In terms of goals for next year I've been thinking about that, but it's probably going to be quite a long post so I'll cover this year's goals and this week first!

So this week:
M - Climbing at NW Face with my sister - she wasn't feeling so great so a pretty short session, but turned into some good stamina training as I didn't have much of a break between routes. Didn't really try anything hard - about 11 routes up to 6b and two v4s in the bouldering area. Think I did a bit of core when we got home.
T - Christmas Day run! About 40mins I think - felt really sluggish, but was running with my Dad who is faster than me so that kept me going.
W - Walk in the forest (1.5-2hrs?)- not sure what distance we covered but we were definitely walking rather than ambling! 15 min core
T - Rest
F - Bouldering at Biscuit Factory. Did about 20 or so of the grey circuit (v1-3), some of which definitely felt harder than v3! Foot popped in my desperately-need-to-be-resoled shoes on a harder problem and I banged my elbow and got 'wall burn' on the way down. Was climbing on my own so not really psyched to try hard stuff so got on the circuit board. Did the 6a no problem, and worked the moves on the 6c, 6c+ and part of the 7a. Core to finish.
S - 30min run - felt good.
S - Rest - was thinking about going to the reach, but lack of a partner, feeling achey from Friday and can't be bothered cycling in the cold put me off! Had a bit of a walk earlier and will probably go for another one later and maybe do a light core/weights session (now I've found my housemates weights :D)


Looking back at the last year, I started Fit Club in March, when my goals were:

Short term (next couple of months) - try and get a decent redpoint tick (7a or above), get running fit for orienteering fun over Easter weeeknd.

Medium term (over summer) - work has the potential to be hectic, trips are out and weekends may be too :o( So, my main goal is to try and maintain fitness through wall trips, hopefully fit in some outdoor trad and psyched for the autumn!

I think later on I set myself some more specific goals in terms of ticked three 7bs I wanted to do; Want Out, Something Stupid and Empire of the Sun. I achieved one out of three, but that was partly down to not having easy access to Malham or Devon and conditions not being good enough to justify a long trip when I was free.

That said, I seem to have got to the point where I can often get 7a / 7a+ (if soft) done quite quickly if they suit my style and have got quite a few first redpoint ticks (i.e. work moves then send next go). And I onsighted 6c which I was really pleased with. Think my climbing has definitely improved from having some great, psyched people to climb with :o) I've managed to retain some running fitness, but not gained any (still lower than this time last year) and my biking to work performance this year has been pretty poor for various reasons!
AllyBee on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Hi, I'm a new starter (I assume it's ok to just start posting?). My New Year's resolution is to improve my climbing, and I think posting here might help me stick to it...

About me:
I've been climbing for about 8 years (sport climbing for 6), but have never really got very good at it. My consistent onsight grade's been stuck at about 5+ for ages, with the odd 6a when I'm going well. I managed a 6b onsight once, but that was definitely a one-off! This is mainly down to never dealing with the fact that I have the world's worst lead head!

I've committed myself to a six-month (at least!) European climbing road trip with my partner at the start of 2014 - we've already bought the van and are midway through converting it. I'd like to significantly improve my climbing for this (especially my lead head) as there's so many cool routes at the places we'll be visiting that seem out of reach at the moment. Also, the ability gap between me and my partner is getting to the point where we might not be able to climb at the same crags in some places (his current goal is 8a redpoint).

At the moment I'm halfway through a two-week holiday in Geyikbayiri in Turkey, which is not going very well climbing-wise (see below), due to my complete lack of preparation! I've been enjoying watching other people climbing well though and am feeling really excited about starting an actual proper training plan when I get back.

Very STG (rest of this trip):
Try to enjoy myself, without stressing about how badly I'm climbing - i.e. lead all the easy routes I can find for mileage, mess about on toprope on some harder ones, and get a decent suntan :)

STGs (next couple of months):
1) Get braver:
Do at least two roped wall sessions a week, and at each one take at least five lead falls from above the bolt. Also try just letting go after clipping the anchor, instead of waiting for the rope to go tight.
2) Get stronger:
Pull-up sets twice a week on the large holds on the fingerboard. Work up to being able to do five unassisted pull ups in a row (I can currently do almost two...)
3) Get fitter:
Climbing fitness: at least two wall sessions a week (as above), and do some aerobic training on the fingerboard (20-30 mins feet-on hanging, moving hands between holds, in front of TV)
General fitness: sign up for a lunchtime exercise class at the University gym. It's right next to my building so there's no excuse!

MTG (start of spring, when the weather gets better):
Go to Portland and try to onsight as many 6a's and 6a+'s as I can...

LTG (by January 2014, when we leave for our road trip)
1) I'd like to be at a level where I can onsight 6b consistently, 6b+ with some effort and 6c on a good day when I'm trying really hard.
2) 7a redpoint

This week:
M: Arrived in Geyikbayiri - v tired from overnight flight. Went to Turkish Standard - climbed a 5-, then tried a 5c, but got scared and grabbed a bolt at the crux.

T: sectors Sarkit and Magara: toproped a 6b and 6b+, both overhanging routes with lots of tufa bridging. They were both very physical, so ended up taking several rests due to lack of overall fitness. Spent the rest of the afternoon belaying, apart from having a go at a few moves on the 7b+ my boyfriend was trying.

W: Led a 5a and a 5b at Trebenna. Also tried toproping a 6c, but found it very thin and desperate, so ended up pulling on the rope a lot. We both gave up about mid-afternoon as our skin couldn't deal with the sharp holds any more!

T: Rest day - spent the evening watching Reel Rock Tour 2012 and getting really, really psyched about climbing...

F: ...and then had probably the worst climbing day ever! Went to Sarkit/Magara again keen to try some 6a's. Tried Crying Boy at Magara as the others were taken and felt awful on it - head was all over the place, didn't trust my feet and found all the holds either greasy or painful! Wobbled awkwardly up the start, sat on the rope at the crux, dogged to the next clip, tried the crux again on toprope, still couldn't do it, had a little cry, dogged to the top, came down, cried again, then spent most of the rest of the day belaying. Boyfriend put a rope up another overhanging, physical, tufa-ey 6b at the end of the day for a laugh. Managed it with three rests (two due to lack of fitness, one due to being stupid), but was so unfit that I felt like I was having an asthma attack halfway up - and I don't even have asthma...

S: Nothing - rain and stomachache :(

S: Nothing - raining again!


So lots of work to do - hopefully posting progress on here will be helpful! Sorry about the essay - future posts will be shorter...
Ali - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Alaleuile: Welcome welcome! I like your goals - think they're really good, and totally realistic... Would be good to see you guys down at Portland too (winter conditions can be very good though so don't necessarily wait til spring!) :o)

I'm looking to focus on more trad this year so would def be up for doing some onsighting practice on more 6s on Portland on some point - if your other half decides he is going to get an 8a project down there ;o)

Enjoy the rest of the trip and happy new year to you both!
grubes - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> Grubes – You sound psyched. You’re selling Almscliff to me, all I need is good weather… Hope you manage to get climbing in the variety of places you want to.
Thanks dan really psyched. I am loving almscliff at the min.

STG (end of 2012):
No major injuries
Split the year up
LTG (End of 2013):
Climb harder than 7a in UK and abroad.
Top out the chief
boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Lead E3 try onsight
Climb Great wall at squamish
7b
7A
E3/4
Weight loss!

Current weight 84kg

This Weeks Goals:
Rainbow Slab!!! Red and yellow then see what else .. - Fail
Alsmcliff:
Crucifix traverse - Fail
Flying arête - Fail
Maybe indoor routes - Tick Sort of

M: Christmas eve. Work -> Depot 2 hours worked a couple of routes on the back roof. Felt tired. only did a quick 1.5 hours
T: Rest. Christmas Day. Very restrained with the dinner.
W: Boxing day. Diet started. Calorie counting using my fitness app.
Depot 2.5hrs. Intense session. Pretty tired by the end. Ticked a route through the roof. This was the first time I have ever topped out the roof. Really happy.
Ended with some 1 foot on campus on the medium and small rungs.
T: Almscliff 2 hours trying hard.
Warmed up on usual problems.
Flying arête. First go I got to top and fell off the top out. This was the theme of the day. I tried the problem till I got cold went for a walk to warm back up then more goes and repeat.
After 2 hours I was tired and some cuts in my wrists from the grit rash. Headed home tired and pleased.
F: Rest
S: Depot 3 hours ish. I warmed up with a full white circuit and some blacks. Ticked a new comp problem ticked one and only one move away from another. So close. ticked some new woods repeated a lot comp problems and killed my self. After 2 hours 10 mins I was tired and then set out on a mission to climb all the blues (V3-V5) and a few other problems. 30 mins later I was truly knackered and really happy with my session
S: Saw a weather window so drove to Almscliff. I got there too late as I was putting my shoes on the heavens opened and I got rained off.
City bloc very tired for the day before. I flashed the red circuit then the blue circuit. Tried some harder stuff but I got flash pumped and the rest of the session felt so much harder.

Next Weeks goals:
Climb as much as possible.
Routes.
keep up with diet

So I have climbed a lot this week. I have made the most of my time off work.
I am tracking my weight this week I dropped from 84.8 to 84.0 goal is 75kg
grubes - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Also Dan thanks for all the effort you have put into doing fit club.
Ali - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: I've been thinking about my goals for next year and how things are likely to pan out. My big, ultimate goal is to tick a 7c, but realistically I don't think that's going to fit in with my other goals and current holiday plans.

So far, 2013 looking as follows:

mid Feb-beg March - 3 1/2 weeks in New Zealand (non-climbing or running)
Beg April - Easter weekend booked for orienteering comp
Beg May - orienteering comp
end of July/beginning August - 2 weeks in Scotland - 1 orienteering and hopefully 1 trad climbing
Oct - 10 days/2 weeks in Kalymnos (hopefully!)

Given that I will need to keep my running fitness up for the orienteering and I'd like to get a decent amount of trad done over the summer (if weather allows) I'm not sure that leaves much room for hard sport, unless the autumn/winter months are kind! And to be honest, I should probably do some more consolidation around 7a-7b so I don't start trying to run before I can walk! That said, I do get easily tempted to try hard stuff if other people are on it...

So goals as follows:

2013 plan:
Jan-mid Feb - Continue with current indoor volume and try and get at least two weekends (or days of weekends) in sport climbing. Tick a couple of 7as, or one 7a and a 6c onsight/flash. Run at least twice a week for up to an hour.
mid Feb - beg March - have a super fab time in NZ :o)
March-May - Focus on building up running fitness and navigation skills for orienteering - run at least twice a week, with one of these being over an hour. Climbing wise, work on onsighting ability in 6s and getting back into the feel of trad with 1 or 2 weekends away.
June - September - Focus on trad climbing, getting out at weekends and building up to onsight E2. Maintain strength by bouldering indoors during week. Maintain running fitness and work on navigation if possible.
September/October-end year - Focus on onsighting and quick redpoints in Kalymnos, possibly try and get a 7b project ticked. Try and get a 7a flash and some 6c onsights. Do DNA. For remainder of year get back up to strength and focus on repointing. If I can get Something Stupid and Empire done that would be a bonus.

So things I would like to have ticked by end of the year:
- 7a flash
- 6c onsight (I did one or two this year but more consistent)
- E2 onsight
- Respectable performance at major orienteering events (ideally top half of age class, but this rather depends on the competition!)
- Another 7b tick (ideally 7b+ but that may be too much to hope for!)

To achieve this I need to focus on:
- Getting falling sorted
- Stamina
- Leg strength & stamina (I seriously have the weakest legs in the world)
- Trad skills (esp efficient and confident gear placement)
- Maintaining current strength level (I'm hoping this is going to be the easy bit! :-S)



mattrm - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Alaleuile:

Yup, just post away. New folk always welcome. The trip sounds awesome. Sounds like you could do with some structured falling practice and some general fitness work. The goals seem sensible. The pullups are probably sensible, but it does sound to me like you just need to climb more. Just make sure you don't overcook it, you don't want to pick up any injuries.
Sankey - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers, adjusted my bouldering traverse goal in line with some comments on here last week. This week has been predictably low key for a Christmas spent in Norfolk, but not gone too mad on food/drink and at least got a little exercise in...time to pick it up for the new year...

M: Session on Level 2 problems at Foundry then Drive to Norfolk
T: Run 1.5 mile on Xmas morning
W: Walk 3 miles run 1 mile back from football match
T: Walk 2 miles
F: Walk 5 miles
S: Run 1 mile back from football match
S: Drive back to Sheffield


STG: V4 ish boudlering e.g. Walnut Traverse at Birchen -WORKING / Crucifix traverse at Almscliff
2 problems I couldn't quite do last winter, so good benchmarks

MTG: RP 6c in Turkey Feb 5th onwards / French 7a boulder traverse equivalent at churnet

LTG: 7a Sport RP
Si dH - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Ali:
Hey Ali, if you really want to do 7c I reckon you are strong enough from the stuff youve been doing to get it by year end, it just means putting in the time on the right route. I was in your position a year ago, in fact only really aiming for 7b+, but I got a 7c in the end.

However I cant talk as im also well psyched for more trad this year. If you want to get out in the peak at all it would be great to meet up and id also be up for the odd weekend trip further afield including swanage.

Si
NMN - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

> NMN – Maybe even do some trad? ; )

Thanks Dan, definitely want to get the trad going again, but won't be until the spring. Going to try and have some trad specific goals when I finally sort them out.

And thanks for the time you have put in running fit-club.

Started the week with good intentions of ticking along but got ill.
Should have perhaps got going again today but thought I'd just write it off as a rubbish week.


STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time. - Fail
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time. - Tick

MTG:
Sub 40 min 10km. - Tick
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.

LTG: Push trad grade.


M - 6.01m road run, 150ft.
T - 4.00m trail run, 188ft.
W – ill.
T – ill.
F – ill.
S - ill.
S - nothing.
pork pie girl - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

i'm a bit goaless right now... in terms of very specific goals that is.. i want to get more v6s under my belt at the wall where i climb and in the next couple of weeks start climbing routes again as i'm off to spain in mid feb,.. my goal there will be to redpoint 7a durimg that trip or dog a couple.. and i will be very happy with that with a view to building on this september's 7b at malham in up and coming the spring and summer.. i;m not sure what is realistic for me but i would be very happy to red point 7c this coming summer , i also want to be able to maintain any power i have developed through bouldering during the spring/summer.. rather than not doing any power training over the summer and feeling very weak when it comes to the winter.

my goal each time i go bouldering is to climb until i am completely knackered and to give problems that are hard for me at least three goes each time i climb.. i want to climb at least 3-4 times per week for about an hour and a half.. problem is i'm rubbish at resting as i get bored .. for the last couple of weeks i feel like i have plateaued .. very frustrating.. hoping something will kick in in the new year. would be interested to hear other people's experiences with this sort of thing too

sorry for disjointed response... i'm mutitasking (mince pies and snowballs) :o)
Eagle River - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to pork pie girl:

I don't think going from redpointing your first 7a in spring to your first 7b in September could be counted as plateau-ing!
Eagle River - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks for all your efforts In running the fit club Dan.

Goal: 7c by April 2013

Thurs: indoor bouldering

Managed to sneak in a quick session amongst the busy festive period. Now the illness has gone I'll be back into the usual routine from Wednesday onwards. By usual routine I mean falling off stuff indoors and complaining about the omnipresent dampness.
Ali - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Si dH: Hmmm, I think I maybe can do it - if I find the right route, as you say. The real problem is putting the time in on it! Really struggle to get out for more than a weekend a month, which doesn't really give the time you need on a project.

Yup, definitely up for some peak trips in the spring/summer - I want to go back and do that E2 with the no-hands rest at Stoney at some point! I think I am also up for Swanage as long as we avoid stuff that is falling apart :-)
mattrm - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan, really appreciate you doing fit club. I've done the odd couple of posts and I know how much work it is. Well done and thanks!

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
1 - Lose 1/2 stone (put on 1/2 stone)
2 - Improve finger strength (no progress)
3 - Improve footwork (no climbing this week :( )
STG - Climb 6b @ wall, v3 @ wall, 12st 2lbs
MTG - Climb 6b @ wall, v4 @ wall, 12st
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 12lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 13st - noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo :( :(

M - 3.6k run 19 mins
T - Ate too much
W - 60 situps 15 pushups 30 seconds of planks
T - Sat on fat arse
F - 3k run 20 mins
S - 7km, 450m asc up PyF
S - 60 situps 15 pushups 30 seconds of planks

It is far to easy to put on weight. Augh. Got properly fat over the last few months. Far too little climbing. Depressing. Lets hope the new year will be better. The wife and I are planning a week away to the Lakes in Feb, which is nice to look forward too. Hitting a diet and lots of climbing in the new year for sure!
Daniel Heath - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to mattrm:

re diet

Get on it. Find something that's enough to make a difference but not so extreme that you'll fail.

Good luck and make it happen
Daniel Heath - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to pork pie girl:

It doesn't sound like you could fit much more in, so how about focusing on one thing for 6 weeks? eg finger strength.
biscuit - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks for all your efforts Dan.

Sum total of 1 x 30min run this week

Got surprised by 3 days of unexpected work so not been able to meet up with Kevster.

Hopefully going on new years day.

Not binged on food but have grazed constantly on buffet food and got totally rat arsed 3 times. Oops !

At least going to meet Kevster will stop me boozing too much. I was doing Ok but Xmas and Boxing days both ended up in free bars.

tthis weeks goal is to get my thumb out of my arse and drop some weight before Morocco on the 12th, and get another 7b done.
Si dH - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Ali:
> (In reply to Si dH) Hmmm, I think I maybe can do it - if I find the right route, as you say. The real problem is putting the time in on it! Really struggle to get out for more than a weekend a month, which doesn't really give the time you need on a project.
>
> Yup, definitely up for some peak trips in the spring/summer - I want to go back and do that E2 with the no-hands rest at Stoney at some point! I think I am also up for Swanage as long as we avoid stuff that is falling apart :-)

You should crush that. If youre doing 7b now you should also get on some of the other e2s there too, they are awesome and you should have the fitness to hang around and place tonnes of gear (always.my favoured tactic! :)). Will be in touch re swanage trip next year!

HNY all for tomorrow night.
Joughton on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Sad to see you step down Dan, you've been a great fit clubber! Cheers for the motivation and psyche.

Another poor week from me, I've had no free time over the holidays with various christmas visits and events.

Mon - best day of the week - bouldering at Stockport wall. Started off badly, didn't feel good warming up, but when I got going I managed to onsight almost every problem in the V5 circuit, as well as flashing two of the V6 circuit and working three others, including some really powerful fingery probelms which I think previously I'd have been hopeless on - good to feel some improvement! Finished off the session by flashing one of the V7-8 circuit, and working 3 others, one of which I think might actually be a V8 and my hardest indoor tick to date, in about 20 goes!

Fri - Stockport again, finished off my earlier session by doing the rest of the V5 circuit and two more of the V6 circuit, then did a few routes. I onsighted two 7as which I was actually quite pleased with as I never do well at Stockport (one was the red 7a with the mono which I think was discussed earlier, the other was a purple on the Mammut wall if anyone can relate?). Then dogged a 7a+ and got stumped by a biiigg move on a 7b+, but still a good session.

So it was nice to feel the benefits of my training so soon, despite my lack of volume this week. I'm planning on continuing my strength work for a while longer before preparing for a trip to Spain in Feb by hammerring endurance work for a few weeks.

Cheers, Jake
maria85 - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers for doing fit club Dan. I don't mind doing a few weeks here and there but don't feel like it's something I can commit the time to every week right now.

Hope everyone had a wonderful christmas and santa brought some shiny gear :)

Last week's goals:
2x bike to work (don't wuss out this time!) -1 done
2x runs - No orienteering for another 3 weeks :( -3 done! uber tick.
2x fb/core sessions -Fail, lacking motivation...
Fingers crossed scotland next weekend if the weather's ok. -weather not ok
Also got 2 unplanned wall sessions in :)

M: Nothing. Work and drive back to parents.
T: Happy to get a xmas day run in, 13.5km, 1.5hrs. Remembered why I hated cross country running at school - plodding across muddy flat fields is totally soul destroying (resorted to many walk breaks as it was boring and slippy).
W: Nothing.
T: Biked to and from work.
F: Lunchtime run, 4.8km. Epic shin splints, hobbled back. Not feeling good at all. Evening Depot - got the red (V5?) that I was working last week after ~10 goes, very happy! Nothing else new of note but repeated lots of V3/4s.
S: Bailed out of planned lakes trip as soon as the words 'bivi bag' got mentioned, went back to sleep. No exercise but I did go and invest in a new pair of road shoes after Friday's pain. Good to have my running style assessed properly and get the right shoes, something I've never done and feel I should if I'm going to up the milage much more (plus my old shoes were toast). Unfortunately they are pink and silver and bright white and I feel like Barbie.
S: Run, 5.9km, 34mins. Only a hint of shin pain. Splashed through some puddles on the canal to attempt to dull-down shoes, failed and they are still blindingly sparkly.
Leeds wall - bouldered for a while (did most of blues, V2/3). Routes - 6a TR, 5 lead, 6a lead, 6b+ TR, 6a+ attempt lead - turned into clip-drops as very pumped..., 6b+ TR 1 fall, 6b totally dogged, 6b+ TR. Last 3 were strange as I couldn't touch the 6b but the 6b+'s felt ok. Have zero stamina on routes, been bouldering too much!

So a pretty good week considering the festivities. Plan for this week:
- Orienteering NY day - change of NY plans means I can make it!
- 2 runs
- 2x bike to work
- 1 wall session
- 1 FB/core session (aim lower this week and at least get one done?)
- Not plan the weekend until Thurs so the weather doesn't disappoint me again.

Will be back later in the week with some nicely thought out goals for the new year. Enjoying reading everyone elses, great inspiration. Will update on current goals though (set in October for the whole winter):

- Excited to get to the wall again regularly and get some strength back. 2x wall sessions/week, leading 6b indoors comfortably by the end of winter, working 6c. Bouldering maybe V4 or so? (I'm not much of a boulderer, even indoors). -Been doing well on this, have done a couple of V5s (red at depot = V5-7, so I'm guessing they were 5s!) which I'm really happy with. Solid on V3, some V4s ok. Need to work more on routes, I have no stamina and get massively pumped. It's easier for me to make it to bouldering walls, but need to put the effort in to make it to Leeds/Harrogate for ropes, and also get on the circuit boards more.
- Running - run at least 3x/week, and at least 25km/week. Build up milage aiming towards a marathon in the spring.-Doing well so far.
- As and when weather permits, consolidate at E1 outdoors.-Have only managed 7 days on real rock, including 4 VS leads. Better than nothing!
- Get a mountain bike again as soon as I can afford it and get out lots!-Got out on my crap bike quite a bit, will be waiting until summer to get anything better though, can't afford it right now.
- Start training again, on the fingerboard and leg strength stuff also. 2 sessions of each/week.-I need to kick my arse into gear on this, badly.
- Ski at least one week over winter, preferably touring.-1 touring week planned. More hopeful.
- Scottish 4 lead. Climb in Glen Coe/Ben Nevis area as only been to the Cairngorms before.-Still to come!
- Start a Yoga or Pilates class. -I briefly looked at them, feel I have enough on right now though, not enough time. Might look into doing some yoga at home.
maria85 - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to maria85: Oops, sorry for the essay, I got a little carried away there!
AJM - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Ali:

I'd agree with Si, probably just a time issue really and ultimately that's down to you - trade offs between wanting to do trad (plus this silly running sideline;) and wanting to give full focus to sport is something I faced too last year, so I know where you are with that one.

Keen for some peak and swanage trad stuff next year, and also if any FC members fancied getting to LPT or some classic peak/yorks sport next year I'm quite interested in trying to move onto the next "broadening my experience" milestone by trying a 7c/+ away from my local stomping grounds...
grubes - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to Ali)

> Keen for some peak and swanage trad stuff next year, and also if any FC members fancied getting to LPT or some classic peak/yorks sport next year I'm quite interested ...
Gonna focus more on trad this year but definitely keen for LPT again amazing crag. Also happy for York/peak stuff
Let us know the date happy to come belay
ads.ukclimbing.com
grubes - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Joughton:
Hi Jake did you do grand wall at squamish last year? Just wondering what you thought the E grade would be. My partner is really keen for it and it looks amazing.
Hes happy to lead the harder pitches so just need to be able to second
Nomics4sale - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Big thanks from me too Dan for keeping the thread going and for all your input into goals and training. It makes a difference!

And nice one grubes for taking over!

STG: V6 at BBUK, 7b RP indoors or out
MTG: 7b RP in Spain in March
LTG: more E1s Summer 2013 and look at E2.

Mon: beginner BM training then Stockport bouldering. Ticked a new V5 but didn't try V6.
Tues: nowt
Wed: nowt
Thurs: Stockport routes. Tried the purple 7a again and the lime 7a+ (which ER's graded 6c+). Bit of progress but was mainly held back by my fear of falling. Yelled "take" far too many times!
Fri: 10.2 mile trail run Pendle Hill, 450m ascent
Sat: Routes Kendal. Got on a new (to me) 7a on the main wall. Not too bad, might get it next time. Then clean lead of another 7a 2nd go which I was pleased with but realistically it's not 7a.
Sun: 5 mile trail run Pendle Hill, 350m ascent. Wind, hail and driving rain. Not the most pleasant experience of my life.

So, I'm making a bit of progress on the "must try harder" front cos at least now I'm getting on 7as straight after warming up rather than going for onisght of 6c, 6c+ etc first. Still not really going for it when I'm actually on a hard route though, I slump on the rope when I get to a hard section rather than pushing through and trying the move.

And I'm not sure how I'm going to acheive either of my STGs without actually getting on the grades!

Am going to lay off the BM training this week cos my finger is getting worse not better. One of my climbing partners thinks it's ligament damage. Dunno but my finger is swollen and bruised looking and the BM training can't be doing it much good so I'm going to lay off and see what happens. Bit gutting as I think it was helping my non-injured fingers get stronger.

And reflection on 2012 for me.... My main sport goals were to onsight 6c and then later on RP 7a in a day. I did manage both of those goals thanks to Nik's coaching holidays (and judicious route choices!). My trad goals were to onsight HVS and try some E1s and I'm chuffed with progress with this as I've ticked some good HVS's and E1s. Slightly embarassed to admit that the E1 I'm most chuffed with (Hombre at Gogarth) was also with Nik!

2013's goals don't feel too unrealistic as long as I can get out on real rock. Fingers crossed.

It's been great to read through everyone's progress over the year and how folk think the year has gone for them. Everyone's is doing so well!!

Ali and PPG, get on the 7cs!!
Nomics4sale - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Joughton:

> Fri - Stockport again, finished off my earlier session by doing the rest of the V5 circuit and two more of the V6 circuit, then did a few routes. I onsighted two 7as which I was actually quite pleased with as I never do well at Stockport (one was the red 7a with the mono which I think was discussed earlier, the other was a purple on the Mammut wall if anyone can relate?).

I'm not in your league but that purple 7a is the one I've been trying. It's very bouldery with big moves on the steepest section. I've tried it over two sessions now and not yet led it cleanly whereas other 7as normally only take one session, if that's anything to go on I'd say it's top end 7a... but no doubt Eagle river will say it's benchmark at the grade!! ;-)


Daniel Heath - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Celebrating a mini victory today.

Resisted the temptation to go for a 10 mile slow run yesterday, so I could smash the HIIT this morning. I know I'll be stronger and leaner this way.
AllyBee on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Ali:

Thanks Ali! I'll definitely let you know when we head down to Portland then. The other half can usually be persuaded to get projects in most places...

Happy new year to you too!
AllyBee on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for the welcome, and the advice! I've finally resigned myself to doing some proper fall practice - I've been putting it off for years because I find it really unpleasant, but my head issues are now so bad that it's the only way I'm going to get anywhere...

Good point re injuries - I have done that before! I'm going to keep the fingerboard stuff simple (big holds only) for the moment and just use it as a supplement for when I can't get to the wall...



P.S. Sorry about the sudden name change, by the way. It was pointed out to me that the first name I picked was obscure and unpronounceable...
seankenny - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks for all your hard work Dan, much appreciated.

M: Westway, bit of bouldering then routes: 6a, 6c (almost clean), half a 6c, went home. Felt fairly desultory.
T: 1.6m run before breakfast.
W: Short run to pick up car from relatives.
T: Drive to Yorkshire.
F: 4.5m run.
S: Nothing.
S: Return from Yorkshire.

A busy festive week seeing relatives and friends, all the usual stuff. Still, managed to keep the training ticking over. Will post a fuller entry next week with some goals and stuff. Happy New Year folks!
AJM - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

> And reflection on 2012 for me....

Well, if that's the game we are playing...

Pretty good year for me. In fact scratch that - less epoch shattering than last year in terms of the sport progress, but actually a very good year in terms of progress towards long term ambitions.

- 8a.nu tells me I've passed the "50x Fr7" mark, currently sitting at 56, with 26 of those done during 2012.
- I had a good run of crushing through E2s and have kind of broken my fear of them a bit, and had a nice patch where I was getting on E3s with some regularity.
- I made better than expected progress on "8a before 30", having ticked a 7c+, overfilled my 7c+ pyramid, made progress on in filling the gaps in the 8a pyramid, and most importantly got on an 8a, found I can do the moves, and made some links as well.

The only black mark on the teachers report for 2012 that I can see is that my 8a pyramid shows me I've done more 7bs than 7a+s, and under half the number of 7a+s than I have 7as, because I've not been getting myself out there on the 7a+ onsights and have been wussing about doing quick 7b redpoints instead. Whilst the 8a goal is the big one for next year, I do need to sort this out at some point really...
Ali - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to pork pie girl: Do you usually boulder on your own or with people? If I'm on my own I tend to find if hard to have good sessions as I often get put off trying hard stuff if I can't immediately work it out and don't rest enough between goes. If I'm climbing with friends I often climb - and try - harder, and have enough rest as stop to chat in between goes!

Sounds like you're storming at the moment, bug sometimes it just happens that you get a few not so good sessions in a row...bet you have a good one soon though and feel more positive! :-)
Ali - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to AJM: Impressive year! Nice one mate :-)
AJM - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Ali:

Cheers :)

Is Kalymnos in October an actual plan or a hypothetical "want to"? God knows what I'll be doing by then, but I've never been and it's right after Alis PhD handin if you go in October so could be good timing for a trip...
Exile - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan, think you're right. Haven't measured it recently but I'm guessing the Xmas chess board hasn't done that much good. Going to concentrate on this through Jan'.

Thanks Dan - paid for it this week though with a cold!

Goals:

Best efforts outdoors this year, (and ever I surpose!):
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals by the end of the year:
Boulder V5 outside? - Did this inside, not the chance to outside
Winter - VI 7 if conditions allow - Got VI 6 recently
Weight down to well under 11.5, Body fat under 10% - 11.5 t0 12 at moment, so Xmas fail!

Goals for next spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7

Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

Weeks training:

M: 1hr fell run & core
T: Nothing
W: 2hr 30min MTB & core
T: 30min dry tooling, 40 min 6b+ traverses
F: 50min fell run & 30 min finger board
S: 1hr 10min fell run & core
S: 1hr 50 power and power endurance on Kendal Wall woody & core

Managed to complete just over 400 hrs of exercise this year for the first time so chuffed with that, just need to loose a bit of fat now!
Exile - on 01 Jan 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Sorry to hijack slightly but what was your first 7b? - sounds like we live in the same area and some suggestions at the grade will hopefully be useful this year.

Thanks.
Ali - on 01 Jan 2013
In reply to AJM: Well not actually booked anything, but think a few people are keen for a trip...
oddtoast on 01 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
This time last year was seven rest days a week! 3 sessions a week of something is my goal though. Welcome allybee :-)

Great Christmas, ate indulgently but not stupidly. My running route is still flooded and I keep putting off finding a new one so will look at that this week.

Two indoor bouldering sessions last week, first felt clumsy on Christmas eve but second on Friday was great, climbed really well ańd smoothly for once so was chuffed. Found I can do the 6a circuit board so will add that to my usual messing about.

Happy new year climbers :-) I got my first cams for Christmas so itching to go play when the weather improves
mrchewy - on 01 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers Dan - really has made a huge difference to my year knowing that when I post, you will take an interest and offer some encouragement and advice. You've been brilliant.

I'm normally not around at weekends but if I needed to, I could probably help out with the odd week of thread posting.

Weight steady at around 80kg. Finished Dec as I started - EPIC WIN!

Mon - Pack gear and head off to Wales.
Tue - 9 mile run in 1hr 30min and 2 mile warm down. Some off road.
Wed - 2.5 mile fell run. Muddy, wet and HARD! 30min
Thu - Rest day. Calves pooped, not used to running in welsh hills.
Fri - Drove to Cairngorms via Manchester and Ambleside. Arrived midnight and slept in car.
Sat - Aladdin's Mirror Direct IV 4. Alt Lead but Chiz did the hard pitch of ice. All there but overhanging, probs tech 5 and the others who climbed it agreed. 2hrs walking to get in and out of Coire an t-Sneachda. Slept in car.
Sun - 2hrs walking to get in and out of Coire an t-Sneachda. Conditions hideous and poor. Drove to Mellon Charles in Wester Ross.

Everyone - I read all the posts every week and it's been brilliant seeing focused people improving every week. Thanks muchly.

So, got some running done, a winter route (my first on a rope weirdly enough) and finished the year lighter, fitter, stronger than I started. Just need to keep moving forwards. Goals have already been stated and I'm working towards them.

Soloed HS 4c today! Equals my best lead climb... and spotted a line that would be a new route where we are. Fingers crossed on the weather but it's a steepish arete and should suit me.

Happy New Year everyone!
Joughton on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Aye I'd agree it's tough for the grade, I only just got it first go whereas I'm onsighting 7b+ at MCC... do you use a heel hook on the two biggest jugs in the steepest section? That's what helped me for the big move off the sidepull if I remember rightly. I find the 7as upstairs are usually much softer!
Joughton on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes: Yes I did, it's incredible! The E grade is a tricky one becuase the pitches are actually all really well protected (apart from the 5.7 pitch which is basically like an unprotected VS). The individual moves aren't too hard, but all the climbing is very sustained, often the same move over and over again for 30-40m, and by the time you arrive at the Sword (crux pitch) you're absolutely exhausted!

I'll say that to follow it'll feel from 6b to 6c, depending on how well you can jam - if you can't jam at all it'll feel 7a haha. To grade the crux pitch on it's own, if you imagine it straight off the ground, I'd give it E3 5c, but the overall route grade as E4 5c. People who are experienced at either granite crack climbing or big trad climbs might find that grade ridiculous, but with my level of experience at the time that was how it felt to me, relative to other routes I've done of a similar grade.

Oh and one last thing - it's worth bearing in mind that despite the 'Split Pillar' pitch only being graded 5.10b (on grade tables that translates to 6a+...) it doesn't feel any easier to the 'Sword' pitch, which gets 5.11a (which is more like 6c).

Hope that helps!
grubes - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to Joughton:
Thanks
Thats reassuring I was worried it would be sustained (english)6a which tends to be a struggle for me but I can normally do obvious 5c moves first go. So I just need to get fitter and it's on :)
Daniel Heath - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Thanks mate. I've found a great deal of encouragement from your posts too so thank you.

Good work on the solo and happy climbing.

Dan
biscuit - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath + Mr Chewy

I'd like to 2nd Chewy's comments Dan. You dish out advice,encouragement and bollockings when needed, in a very motivating way. Thanks for all the effort.

I know you like your high intensity interval training. Have you ever done the insanity workout ? My brother has the full set of dvds ( it's a 60 day course ) and he sent me the 20 min fast and furious workout. I watched it yesterday and it looked OK . I thought it was a bit odd that the instructor couldn't speak at one point and the students on the DVD kept stopping. You don't notrmally see that on a keep fit DVD.

I tried it this morning and i nearly died. I just have enough energy to type. For a 20min hit it's amazing. Much more intense than me running on my own and it works your upper body as well - lots of antagonist work for us climbers.

Obviously there is loads of gym bunny 'psyche' talk but it may be worth trying to find it. My brother got it as part of the full set ( about £100 ) but i am sure you could find it on ebay - or possibly by other more un ethical methods via the internet.
Daniel Heath - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks mate, I appreciate your comments.

Re Insanity, I think the honest reason I've ignored the threads etc is I'm a bit scared about the effort involved. Maybe I'll man up and do a bit of research on it.

My secret (no longer) is to try boxing in the new year. Could go either way, but the fitness really appeals to me.
biscuit - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

It does hurt but i went for it due to the all round fitness it gives you. Would have to watch ot it doesn't affect climbing specific training - or climbing itself of course

I tried boxing training - never had a fight - many years ago. I was in the police and was a beat bobby. I went to the local boxing club to get to know the kids and started training with them. It hurt about the same as the DVD did. The general conditioning stuff is fairly similar - star jumps, plank squats, lots of core, burpees etc.

Are you going the whole way and donning the gloves ?
Daniel Heath - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to biscuit:

I don't know yet. I'll go to the club first and see. A female officer at my unit is a member, so at least I have someone to introduce it to me.
mattrm - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

re: Insanity, I've been looking into it (and p90x) and I think that p90x might be slightly better (if you don't like cardio) as it involves a lot less cardio.

Both are quite daft tho, all the marketing BS and weird american hype. But I think at the bottom of it, what they're saying (as long as you ignore the stuff about supplements) is fairly ok. I'm doing to give one of them I go I think. Probably p90x, but not 100% sure.
Joughton on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes: Yeah I guess there might be a few 6a moves on the Sword pitch but not too sustained... I'd reccomend some where like Murrin just to get used to the jaming style though, and the friction isn't as good as it looks. You can even practice on sport routes!
grubes - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to Joughton: Great wall will be for the end of the trip after building a base on the first two weeks.
We have plenty of time there so a good combination of routes and bouldering before we go for it.
I have my sights set stairway to heaven as well http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=222708 which is fully bolted so could be used as a good prep/test for grand wall.
Ian Bell - on 02 Jan 2013
Hi all, hope it was a good Xmas and new year for everyone. Malta was a nice trip for me although more chilling than climbing. Did a few 6b+ badly and TR a nails 7b but nothing else much. Not too worried by poor performance, current plan was to be heavy now (managed to exceed the target 65kg) and then train it off so can't expect to perform well.

Having looked at the log book this year I managed;

2x6c+
3x7a (one OS)
1x7a+ (soft)
First HVS since breaking myself on one.

Somewhat dissapointing, thought I'd done more and even allowing for bad weather and glandular fever should have done more. Still such is life! I did at least TR / dog a few 7bs and some of them felt do-able.

Goal for next year I think is 7b+ pyramid. 4x7a, 3x7a+, 2x7b, 7b+. Apart from getting better a key issue will be getting people who also want to try the routes (or will hold a rope).
useful on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
New to the Fit Club, so recap/intro:
I started climbing in 2011 in the flatlands of Berkshire. Fortunately, work in 2012 brought me to North Wales...

It's been a year of Firsts: first outdoor climbing, first sport lead at 6a, first trad E1, first trad multipitch, first 10m fall! I'm OK with falling generally, but should probably practice more.

Current climbing status:
Sport:
# Clean Leads: 6a (e.g., Not Runout Groove (Llanddulas Cave), Fresh Air( Dinorwig), Awesome Walls Liverpool)
# Failed Attempts: 6b (Llanddulas Cave)
Trad:
# Dogged Second: E1 5b (MaesHafn)
# Clean Second: E1 5a (Combat Rock, Twll Mawr Dinorwig ), various HVS routes
Bouldering:
# Usually OK at V1
# Usually fail at V2

General:
# Injured a finger at Indy in September, almost completely recovered now.

--
Aims:
STG:
Taking it easy: this one is a short week, and I'm going on a 5-day Winter Skills course in Scotland next week.
Only one session at Prestatyn (tonight) but aiming to do all the V1s and try a couple of V2s there.
Avoid chips and fried food; Spend more time burning calories (even just wandering around) and less time sat down!
Hand feels recovered, but don't want to overdo it...

MTG:
Lose weight - currently 81kg at about 19% body fat after Christmas. I've been steady at this for most of last year, but I'm aiming for 17% by mid February, 15% by end March.
Get onto a number of classic rock routes in North Wales with experienced MIA-consolidating friends;
Start Trad Leading (with same);
Strengthen my hands without damaging them again
More formal fall practice: i.e., warn my belayer!

LTG:
Clean Lead 6b by September
Clean Lead HVS 5a by September
More general low-intensity practice to improve muscle memory

(Apologies for the essay!) :)

Steve.



Kevster - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Happy new year FCers! And welcome to the New years resolution new members!

Thanks to Dan too for your weekly efforts.

I plan on doing a bigger post next week, time and all.
El Chorro was good, not as much volume as hoped and rain on the last day slowed me down more. Good to catch up with several others out there too.
Not spoiling upcoming post, but onsighted 7a+ out there, which is a new PB (flashed this grade before, but not OS). Hardest route was 7b.
Well psyched now....... Though missing the blue skies!

Cheers, Kev.
pork pie girl - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to Ali:

often climb with other people .. who just happen to bew boukdering at the same time.. and yes it really helps motivate me to try harder.. but i still don't rest anywhere near enough because i want to get home and eat my tea!!... so in an hour and a half's session i try and cram in as much climbing as possible.. but i will try to rest more :o)

pork pie girl - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to Exile: something stupid at malham. but it's not necessarily a good one one for a first 7b... i tried three others though... only short sessions but felt reach was an issue on one and lacked power on the other couple... something stupid took me quite a while to do.. it was often wet at the top, i got on 7th aardvark immediately after i managed somtehging stupid and found it much easier..but ran out of time to RP it
pork pie girl - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to Eagle River: i mean with my bouldering :o)

anyway .. what about you... summer 2011.. first 7a red point and then a few 7bs after that in the same season... i got my 7b by the skin of my teeth!!

7c... hmm .. i think you'll manage 8a this summer
Ali - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: Ah... well I try and eat something beforehand (usually a couple of ryvita with peanut butter and a banana if I'm going from work) to stave off hunger pangs (and provide fuel to climb!) then have something light to eat when I get home.

Or...maybe warm up then focus on doing harder problems and making yourself rest in between, before finishing on beasting yourself on whatever without resting? Once you see the results of forcing yourself to rest it may help with motivation?

P.S. Something Stupid is not an easy 7b I don't think - particularly with a couple of reachy moves and crux at the top. There are easier ones out there I'm sure you'd crush!
JimmyKay - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to Kevster:

Calvo Potrun next to Rock the Kasbah was my first 7c. Good wall that. Less than a week later I O/S my first 7c. Since then I've only ever climbed one 7c+ (1st RP) and nothing harder. I've had a goal of F8a for 3years.

My biggest problem is my attention span. This coupled with the need for ticks has prevented me from climbing lots of hard problems. I've never put in more than a 5/6 attempts into a hard sport route. I just get bored, frustrated, angry really quickly! Sport, more so than bouldering. As I feel I'm also being a burden on whoever is belaying as they have to continue to wait for me to climb.

Four days is how many visits it took me to climb v11, and that's when I was at my strongest. I've never put that much effort into a sport route. Maybe this year? I'm not sure. I don't know when, or where I would have a project - there is nowhere I'm psyched for within 2hours. And a four day trip to the continent sees me only wanting to do mileage and not waste the trip attempting one route. Most people know on here as well that my attention switches between sport and bouldering like the flick of a switch as well. Mainly sticking to bouldering for long periods of time until I book a flight abroad.

So this years goals..... I'm not so sure.

I've got 10days in Font over Easter. A couple of classic 7C's would be nice.
Summer holiday - Haven't made my mind up where I want to go yet ( Europe road trip? Thailand? South Africa? Do I even want to spend it all climbing? )
Anything in the UK? Not Really at the moment.

I'm very psyched indeed at the moment. Which is confusing.
grubes - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: have you thought about raindogs? (stupid question I know) Short PE climbing and boulder problems?

Nothing on that route will be hard for you. Just working it out and having the fitness to put it all together.

My house is always welcome for people to crash on to break up a long drive.
JimmyKay - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

I've spent 1 day on it in 2011 - I think? Did it in two halves. Was pretty good. Just really far. Potential for this year maybe.
Kevster - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

I guess it depends on your priorities. Bouldering V11 is well above many 8as. Short and hard may be the better option, if you actually want the harder sport routes, without the mileage/heart breaking endurance of the mega pitches.

Where you based Jimmy? I had the impression you were close to north wales.
Surely something on the Orme/LPT? And you can always boulder after if the tides/attention aren't there.
If the Peak - WCJ or Ravens tor have bouldering and sport. Short sport is just bouldering without screwing your knees anyway.

Partners thing is not really overly hard (I do understand - most of mine climb sub fr6a+), you must boulder with others of a similar calibre? An idle bet in the pub/tea house or honest "I'd like to do this, are you interested in helping out?" would quite possibly yeald a co-climber.

Psyche is good, its infectious!!! And how did the rodellar trip go? - Gonna have to read the thread again as I can't recall seeing it.

I'll race you to 8a, if that helps!!!

Kev.
Kevster - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to Kevster:

Looked at that 7c nr Kasbah, looked good, someone was on it too just for imspiration.
Thought about Birdy next door. Then had lunch. Then the 7c dude struggled on Birdy, so sacked it off.

Anak Sunaman the 7b adj Honk down, looked on my last day at 5pm, so much psyched for the onsight attempt, I'm temped to go back at spring just for the one attempt tick.
JimmyKay - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to Kevster:

Haven't posted my week yet. I'm in Birmingham. Have family in Llandudno, so I go up occassionally. I think the it's the short dirty crimpy stuff in the peak that really puts me off. I want 30-40m mega stuff on the continent! :-)
JimmyKay - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

M-Nothing
T-Christmas Day
W-Travel to Barca
T- First day syndrome. Saw the first bit of rock and walked to it. (Laperne) despite it being the furthest sector and least travelled. Which meant the path was shit and it took us ages. Got there and it was seeping like crazy, so we did a quick 6b and then headed off to a more popular sector. Ended up at Boulder Jon - which is good, despite the name. Did a 7a+, RP2 - should have O/S but it all got a little confusing when there were 2 bolted lines within half a metre of each other in the steep bit at the top. After that, went over and flashed another 7a at Egocentrismo. One of the best crags I have ever seen. Mine blowingly steep. Perfect angle of wall which is just unrelenting. When I go back I want to get on Egocentrismo, 7c. After the 7a, I flashed 7a+, and we called it a day.

F-Not such a good day for me. El Delphin looked the Post Office on Pension day. So went somewhere random and warmed up on another 6b. That crag didn't have anything hard that was dry so ended up back egocentrismo. I found a nice looking 8m 8a. Had a play. Did most of the moves (felt really hard) but I wasn't willing to put in any more time so sacked it off. Then went and jumped on a 7b. Came off at the crux. Then failed to climb it in another 3 RP attempts - closest being one where I was virtually at the chains. Frustrated and depsyched we did a couple of easy 6's and headed back for dinner in the dark.

S-Wasn't going to have another day like F!! We got to Delphin! Empty (except for the two guys setting up a highline.) I O/S'd a 7a to warm up - none of this 6b malarky. Followed this up with a second 7a O/s. Then I jumped on El Delphin. WOW. What a position. O/S'd the first half then dogged the last few clips as I didn't want to end up swinging in no mans land. It really is that steep. If I was on a 7 day trip I would have RP'd it. But we weren't, so we headed over to El Camino. I jumped on a shortish 7a+ which I managed to O/S. Was pretty happy with that as it felt hard. Then I marched all the way back over to Egocentrismo where I nailed the 7b first go of the day. Then wandered all the way back to Bikini Sector and O/S another 7a (Aracia?) which felt f*cking desperate at the start, but I didn't really have much skin left by this point. A good long day. Pretty much walked up and down the entire valley twice.

S- Last day. Body starting to feel a bit wrecked. Wanted a bit more sun so went over to delphin. Tried to O/S a 7a+ but failed. Couldn't be arsed to try again. Decided to do another 7a at Camino. Billy El Rapido - got it RP1 after fluffing the crux. Marched back to egocentrismo for one last time and busted out the route of the trip Pequeno Pablo 7a+ which is the steepest and longest thing I've ever been on. Quite ridiculous. Unrelenting. Blew the O/S high up as my arms just had nothing left in them. Was a bit worried about the same happening during the RP. However it felt piss on the RP. Not sure why, but absolutely cruised it. Finally walked BACK to Camino for a couple of dogdey routes (not great quality) La Larve 7a and Vlur 6c to finish again in the dark.

Phew. Lots and lots of walking. I love the place. Probably my favourite sport crag to date, and I didn't even manage to get to any of the best crags as the tufas were soaked through!! I will be going back there.

Have to give a shout out to the accommodation as well which was top quaity and at a really good price. Kalandraka. Really good food.

Summary (nothing hard):
6b - 3
6c - 2
7a - 6
7a+ - 4
7b - 1
Exile - on 05 Jan 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Thanks for that. Out of interest which was the route you found too reachy?
Daniel Heath - on 05 Jan 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Nice Jimmy. I bet Delphin was amazing.
JimmyKay - on 05 Jan 2013
In reply to Exile:

Wasted Youth?
JimmyKay - on 05 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

It was possibly the craziest position I've ever been in. I didn't know which way to look. Absolutely mega crazy line.
AJM - on 05 Jan 2013
In reply to Kevster:

Nice one on the 7a+ Kev!

Will be writing my own mini-essay probably on Monday whilst waiting for my flight connection in Istanbul. I've re-written it in my head already about 4 times so far this trip, definitely been a trip of ups and downs, with plenty of climbing but also plenty of learning both about the rock and the inside of my head...:)

Anack is ace. Wish I'd had the time to finish it last year.

In reply to JimmyKay:

Glad you had a good trip dude, good to hear there was enough stuff dry - you sound stoked. Regarding your other post - have you thought about stuff like the Diamond or the longer Tor routes or whatever if you want long 8as rather than short stuff (admirable, given you're obviously boulder strong enough for some of those little wee cruxy numbers at rubicon and whatever, that you're waiting for the inspiring route rather than going for a quick tick)? You just need some patience for it too of course!
Richard Popp - on 05 Jan 2013
In reply to deacondeacon: Thanks to everyone for reading my posts and feeding back-especially all those who have made Fit Club happen each week. Just back home after ten day tour of UK visiting friends and holdaying-first day it has not rained on me during that whole time, feeling relaxed and excited about 2013-may do a longer post tomorrow re the coming year but in the intersts of completeness here is bealted last week of 2012.

M-good session TCA, calf feeling better, 25 min run
T-drove, eat.
W-eat, drive.
T-Drive eat.
F-Drive to peak district, very hilly 30 min run in rain.
S-Walk in rain.
S-Run (30 mins very hilly) and walk in rain.

Ended up feeling quite stiff and a bit brain dead but all good as well, content.

Happy new year to all

Rich
Daniel Heath - on 05 Jan 2013
In reply to Kevster:

Good work on the 7a+!
JimmyKay - on 05 Jan 2013
In reply to AJM:

There is a very small margin when the Diamond is in condition and not bird banned - although it does look ridiculously good. I'll be even more psyched when the new NWLimestone book comes out.

I've always wanted to do the Spider at Chee Dale. Has to be one of the most epic positions/buttresses on inland UK. I think I just need to man up this year.

I'm already feeling like this is going to be a good year for climbing and life in general.
JimmyKay - on 05 Jan 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

In terms of roofy bouldery 8a's, The Madness Reigns at Waterfall crag is slick (played on it last year). I'm pretty keen to get on that again.
AJM - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Very true, but I was thinking more places that inspire psyche - it may be conditionsy but if you had a big enough psyche and trained to be in peak shape when it was in condition I can't imagine you would need that many days on it...

Spider does look an awesome position!
Ali - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Sounds like you plenty done even if you didn't get the big ticks - Rodellar is awesome isn't it?!

We went to Egocentrismo as in the guidebook it looked good - esp Pequeno Pablo (that's the one which goes up then diagonally left right?)...went and stood under it looking out and thought F**k this is steep! Somewhere to go back to once I have a huge amount more stamina and core strength - not quite sure if there is any wall to train that level of steepness on though!
pork pie girl - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Exile:

the 7b at giggleswick south... the move after the short traverse left.. think it's at the 4th or 5th bolt... think the route's called silent laughter... i couldn't find an alternative way around the reach problem as it is very thin and fingery as it is.

pork pie girl - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Ali:

yes, on my drive down to work this morning i was planning on what extra food i need to bring into work... i had a longer bouldering session yesterday and rested a bit more... was able to do some moves on one the steep v7s and also got the v5/6s quite easily..and a good effort on a v6.


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