In reply to Ed Brighteldman:
> (In reply to Neil Henson)
>
> how do fingerboard manufacturers decide how many screws are needed to make it safe?
They employ someone from an engineering background who can perform this type of calculation. The process would likely be as follows:
1) Assume maximum weight of climber (say 20 stone for example).
2) Add appropriate safety margin (say 50% i.e 30 stone)
3) Calculate maximum static load (i.e. climber hanging)and dynamic load (i.e. climber doing pull ups).
4) Select suitably rated screw for these maximum loadings.
5) Split the load between several of these screws (four minimum I would suggest for a fingerboard.)
As the previous poster mentioned, the screws are unlikely to fail, even a relatively small one will hold a significant amount of weight. Poor installation will be the most likely source of failure e.g trying to install on plasterboard.
A more practical approach for you would be to look at various pieces of similar climbing equipment from reputable manufacturers and note the number of holes and hole diameter that has been used. You would also need to ensure that screw holes are not positioned too close to the edges.