/ Northern Corries Condition

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jamesofdeath - on 05 Jan 2013
Does anyone know what the Grade I/II gullys are like in the northern corries? Seen a few pics from dif blogs suggesting that snow cover is scarce but still snow in the gullys?

Any recommendations on gullys worth giving a crack tomorrow?
waiting for snow - on 05 Jan 2013
In reply to jamesofdeath:

It's been warm most of today. There is snow in several of the gullies, but most didnt look complete.

We managed to do The Runnel today where the crux pitch was very thin.

We wanted to do spiral gully, but it didn't look complete.

I think mirror direct actually collapsed today as I also had a quick blast up Alladin's mirror (not complete) and down Alladin's coulior (complete), and there was broken ice debris under where it should be.

There is climbing to be had, but you'll have to hunt for it?

Hope that helps?
cannichoutdoors - on 05 Jan 2013
In reply to jamesofdeath: Go and have a look and go for the one with the most solid looking white stuff and fewest climbers.
punj - on 05 Jan 2013
In reply to jamesofdeath: we done spiral on thurs, might be incomplete now, done jacobs ladder yesterday and had a go at the slant which id stay away from, the routes that come off the slant were not there either
luckyjim - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to jamesofdeath: jacob s ladder still complete and the runnel is climable too :)
Jim Fraser - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to jamesofdeath:

Don't fret. A week from now it could all be different. Just remember your transceiver and shovel.
yer maw on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to jamesofdeath: that's deperessing for this time of year, no matter what optimistist looks at it. In my post 1997 experience that is! I've noticed a few guides etc. will try to pipe up and say ye never know could change in a flash etc. but can't quite remember when it has. I suppose we don't want to knock back the potential paying clients etc. but its no looking great.
Fingers crossed I am a pint half full person believe it or not.
jhw - on 07 Jan 2013
It does look like it's going to be cold from Wednesday but the concern is whether there will be anything left up there to freeze (as not much precipitation is expected, I believe)
Jamie B - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to jhw:

> the concern is whether there will be anything left up there to freeze (as not much precipitation is expected, I believe)

That's good, should give the ground a chance to freeze without the snow insulating it.

CurlyStevo - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
The current forecast is for refreeze tuesday night. Going longer term (with all that implies) there looks likely for possibly a fair amount more snow Sunday evening, with some snow showers before then.
Simon Caldwell - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:
The forecaster on countryfile yesterday said that the model showed the possibility of some properly cold weather arriving from the east at the weekend (though also the possibility that the mild weather to the west would win)
CurlyStevo - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Toreador:
Yes interestingly ECMWF and UNISYS are now converging on cold weather gradually getting colder as the week progresses. Possibly substantial snow Sunday evening, and then colder to lower levels too there after.
CurlyStevo - on 07 Jan 2013
Michael Gordon - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to yer maw:

Of course it's not great right now but it will almost certainly come back in again. Each winter season there's nearly always a period of thaw at some point before cold weather returns again.
Robert Durran - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> (In reply to yer maw)
>
> Each winter season there's nearly always a period of thaw at some point before cold weather returns again.

Yes, but the scale and timing (just when things were looking really promising) of this one are particularly disappointing.

Michael Gordon - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:

I don't think it will be as bad for mixed stuff as for ice. It's certainly a pity in terms of the latter with the likes of Meagaidh and Nevis especially starting to look pretty good just before the thaw.
george mc - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
> [...]
>
> Yes, but the scale and timing (just when things were looking really promising) of this one are particularly disappointing.

Jeezo - it's only the 7th January. Heaps of time left for the Ben and Megaidh. Thaws and shite weather are part and parcel of winter climbing.
george mc - on 07 Jan 2013
Jamie B - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to george mc:

> Heaps of time left for the Ben

For an acceptable season, for sure, but with this little base at this point in the season would you say late season awesomeness (think screws at will in Psychedelic) is possible? Interested in your experience...
george mc - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
> (In reply to george mc)
>
> [...]
>
> For an acceptable season, for sure, but with this little base at this point in the season would you say late season awesomeness (think screws at will in Psychedelic) is possible? Interested in your experience...

Aye of course - just depends on how much snow comes along latter and and the freeze thaw. A thaw at this time in January is not out of the ordinary. We were just spoilt by early December being so good. Climbers have very short term memories as well as short term memory spans :)

It's no over till it's over.
andybrown114 - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to jamesofdeath:

So anyone been up Coire an Lochain recently? We're thinking of trying a few of the steeper mixed routes under frost this weekend.
Fieldus - on 09 Jan 2013
Also, any thoughts about the easier gully lines? I was thinking about taking the missus out on saturday. Al's couloir?
AlH - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to andybrown114: Was there today and the snow had refrozen and there was just the smallest amount of rime on the crags- not enough today but it should build again tomorrow. Pics- http://alanhalewood.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/wintery-at-last-couloir.html
In reply to Fieldus: Aladdin's has a wee rock step in it at the Narrows. Jacob's Ladder and the Couloir are the only 2 gullies in the Northern Coires that are completely unbroken as of today (the Runnel is complete up to the narrows and there is more snow above the rock step).
Gwilymstarks on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to AlH:

Likewise, I was in Corie an T'Sneachda today and had a run up Jacob's Ladder and there is plenty of snow in it (and lots of steps).

Didn't see you though Al.
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AlH - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to Gwilymstarks: Came down '0.5' at end of the day. See you here at the Lodge at the end of the week?

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