/ 10 amazing VS routes in the Wye Valley
Whitt - Symonds Yat
Nibelheim at wintours.
May only be HS but don't miss Zelda!
Pam's Pride (SY)
State of Independence (SC)
Joe's Route (WL)
African Killer Bee (WL)
Should keep you going. Only one from Shorn Cliff because it really starts to get good at HVS, however you may find some of the HVSs there are easier than one or two of the above. I've just realised you said "friendly" VSs. Cadillac isn't (nor is Fibre really), but they're definitely top 10 material.
No one has mentioned the angels girdle?
Because not many people have done the route.
Would put Angel's Girdle top of the list.
Caveat regarding Freedom is that it is a tough VS.
Good point - forgot about the Angel Girdle. Maybe in instead of Nibelheim?
laughing cavaliers (we all no its vs and definately not HVS)
sinew (again it may as well be VS)
if your travelling all the way up from cornwall then stop off at avon as there is a top day to be had there at VS
doing unknown wall, gronk and giants cave would be a brilliant day with about 11 pitches of vs climbing to be had.
I'm just thinking about some of the gear, or lack thereof. I thought HVS seemed right.
Agreed about Laughing Cavaliers – if it is an HVS it is certainly a soft touch, I would not class myself as an HVS climber and didn’t find it out of my league. Another shout for the Angel’s Girdle – best VS adventure in the region. I’d give an honourable mention to Butterfly on Fly Wall at Wintours, I really enjoyed that done in one pitch. Also in the region but neither Wye Valley nor Avon is Treebeard/Greybeard at Goblin Combe. Goblin has enough to go at at the grade to give you a Winter’s day climbing and is nice and sheltered, have a look if you get the chance.
A Wye Valley climbers love in – what a nice way to start Monday : )
Angels Girdle is the best I've done for a while.
Most of the Great Cave HVSs are soft touches, if the truth be told. Apart from the start of Bitter Battle Tears, which I have amused several tall partners when trying to do. Unfortunately swearing violently is NOT a very good way of getting over a boulder problem.
Surprised no-one has mentioned War of the Worlds as a quality VS yet.
Sandbagging git :) The Wye does have a few soft touch HVSs but Sinew is not one of them!
Agree that Swallow's nest deserves a place, I think it's a cracking route despite a bit of polish.
Just to ignore your directive not to talk about grades - I can see why people think the climbing on those slabby Shorn Cliff HVS is only VS-ish, but they're pretty runout in places, and those run outs tend to be just where the climbing gets a little insecure. Organ Grinder is more strenuous, but not particularly technical, and you can lace it all the way up. In terms of adjectival grade I'd put it roughly on a par with the Central Cave HVSs.
Tigers is a whole different kettle of fish (sorry, just had to write that sentence).
Tigers = E0
....except laughing cavaliers :D easily vs
Well yes ...if you trust the nut placements behind the semi detached flake near the top - it won't be there forever!
At shorn cliff...
Emotional dyslexia is fab.
Last call also really good but tough.
Lazy l... Bit esoteric but worth a look!
> ....except laughing cavaliers :D easily vs
> Well yes ...if you trust the nut placements behind the semi detached flake near the top - it won't be there forever!
Falling on gear behind that flake would be suicidal! Much better idea to skip the gear (even then, I reckon it's getting on for VS still...)
Tigers = definitive gritstone HVS thuggery.
No way! If you are using thuggery on Tigers, then I would suggest you are doing it wrong. Are you sure you aren't thinking of Organ Grinder, which I would definitely describe as typical grit thuggery? Tiger is sustained, but I thought quite delicate and requiring good footwork. Definitely no soft touch though.
laughing cavaliers is staying on my top 10 vs list though
Its been well over 10 years since I did Tigers but my recollection was that it was a fight for a couple of metres then steady for the rest of the way. There was nothing on it that was any worse than grit standards like Tower Crack so harsh but fair HVS struck me as about right.
Good and genuinely friendly VS routes that I have done in the area would include:
State of Independence at Shorn Cliff, straightforward but entertaining climbing, the crux being getting the nerve up to abseil off the twiggy bush at the top.
Exchange at Symonds Yat, good and well protected, no move above 4b.
Questor (Wyndcliffe), Nibelheim and Joe's Route (Wintours) are slightly harder but probably all in the lower half of the VS grade.
Stiff HS routes that the OP might find worthwhile include Zelda (WL) and Papillon (WC). Spreading the net a little further a couple more excellent low in the grade VS routes are Bifur at Goblin Combe (Esgaroth graded HS also at GC is better though, and probably harder too), not forgetting Rob's Crack at Fairy Cave Quarry a brilliant and well protected low in the grade VS.
I think the start is getting harder harder, as a couple of crucial small footholds are getting more and more polished.
how can the likes of fallacy and laughing cavaliers ever be in the same grade.
L.C IS VS FACT!!! ;-)
And Fallacy.............stop laughing at me Steve ;-)
Tigers. E0 WTF is E0???
Go on you helped write that article under many of your assumed names didn't you!! ;-)
From friendly VS to E0 - this thread is suffering from grade creep.
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