/ North east buttress

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jas wood - on 08 Jan 2013
With cold conditions coming and a dusting of snow due in "hopefully" anyone have any info on the chances of NEB on the ben being in climbable shape by the weekend.
any info how much snow is on it at present and any ice holding out high up on the ben would be appreciated.

Is this climb technically harder in what me be early season nick ?
andybrown114 - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to jas wood:
We did it on 15th Dec in thick rime and the exit from the 40ft corner was a bugger!
John Kettle - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to jas wood: I climbed it yesterday, on a mixture of wet rock and old snow. No ice to speak of but crampons appreciated from about halfway up on the firm snow. We used hands/single axe for all of it apart from the Mantrap, which we went direct over with 2 axes. Didn't feel technically harder, just more scrambling and less axe swinging.
CurlyStevo - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to John Kettle:
"Mantrap, which we went direct over with 2 axes."

Interesting I did it in lean conditions several years ago and also have done it in summer. I found the good hooks for your axes (which can not easily be used as handholds) made it no harder in winter (although I think its more like a move or two of 4b in summer!). I've heard others say it's often easier with no build up on the mantrap also (as the build up is often not of much use and just covers up the hooks)
jas wood - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo: SO if we get as predicted a new dump of snow, quantities as yet unknown and a decent freeze as predicted the route will become climbable no doubt but time consuming and lacking in axe purchase in the fresh unconsolidated snow :O(

Anyone climbed it (and enjoyed it) in the above mentioned conditions ?

steeper mixed may be the order of the day
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CurlyStevo - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to jas wood:
The forty foot corner is a lot easier with good build up the man trap probably easier lean, but it's basically a boulder problem! We found the start of the main ridge hard with poor buildup. The middle section is in the main pretty easy but as you say will be more time consuming with powder all over it.

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