In reply to Fiend:
A friend of mine asked me to write up some info for him before he goes out to Morocco in a couple of months time, so I figured Id post what I wrote here as well to add to the pool of collective knowledge..
For trip we used the 'Morocco Rock' Guidebook.
To that end in no particular order..
Accomodation:
We stayed in the Kasbah Tizourgane, which was alright. Showers are warm most of the time, food was good, we took the option of getting them to make us a sandwich thing to take with us each day. The alternative for lunch is getting some bread from down in the town and some spreadable cheese or something. Id say the only drawback of the place is the lack of stuff to do at night, especially in the absence of any sort of wifi of internet facilities. If I was staying there again Id take a few board games or something. We didnt see any other places with t'internet any closer than Tafroute either (the town down the road is dead at night too).
Transport
We got the cheapest car on the website (a Suzuki Alto from Firstcar). Probably should have coughed up a little extra cash on that one. No cigarette lighter socket for the GPS, and the fastest we could get it up to was 130 kph. Tizourgane is simple to get to, in fact navigating around the majority of Morocco is simple with a map, but Marraketch is hardcore without one (actually its pretty nuts with one). We did a fair bit of driving later on and the gps came in handy every now and then, we just had to make sure it was charged up and used it sparingly.
We had a bit of an incedent with our car too. Most of the crags are on good roads, but theres a few that are down rocky dirt roads (such as the finger and thumb, which are must do's). After driving back one night the window managed to jump out of its housing, and long story short, it ended up costing us the best part of a day messing about to get it sorted. I dont think that would have happened in any other car but our oldskool Alto.
Also as you drive through villages throughout the country there are always police check points. Slow down in good time. I got done doing 70 past the 60 sign. They had a camera so I couldnt really argue the toss. The fine would have been 300 DH, but it was reduced to a 100DH because they love the Army. And bribes.
Gear
Take lots of chalk, any consumables you can think of, and tat. The abseils out there tend to weather very quickly. If youve got a spare rope that youre retiring and the baggage allowance left over for it, take that. If not, just take plenty of cordage etc. The vast majority of abseils are fine, but sometimes you want to sling your own bit of cord around to make sure.
Also best take 2 sets of ropes. We (I) almost severed a rope during a fall, luckily it was only 3m from the end of the rope. The other rope ended up with the core showing through where one of us must have trod on it (there are lots of unforgiving edges and stones on the ground).
2 Sets of cams, nuts, lots of quickdraws, especially extendable ones, and mucho slings. There are a lot of long pitches out there (although quite a few of the 50m pitches we just broke into smaller ones because the rope drag gets insane).
Scoff
Food at the Kasbah is usually good at night, breakfast can be either good (pancakes and porridge) or a bit rubbish (bread, honey and oranges). Snack wise, the Moroccans dont do cereal bar type snacks, only chocolate wafers and other rubbish. I took a load of protein bars which I was glad I did as I could wolf them down on some of the bigger multipitch stuff we did.
Routes
Bit of feedback from the routes we did out there, so in no particular order..
Griffon Rock:
A Profusion of Protrusions E1 5b 50m
More like 5a, good climb tho. Both I and the 2nd pulled large chunks off the start, but rock was ok thereafter. I banged in a belay at 40m or so as you reach an obvious ledge (the rope drag was getting quite full on and the next part's committing for that level of pull from below).
Ksar Rock:
Kingpin HVS 5a
Great climb, 2 stars.
Pelez/Pour Manger E1 5b
2 Stars is fair. The second pitch is 5b tho, not 5a.
Speed is Everything Technique is Nothing. E1 5a
Good climb, more like HVS tho.
Cannon Buttress/ Jedi Groove E1 5b
Fair one at 2 stars.
Tizi Escarpment:
The Temptress E1 5b
Must do.
Finger and Thumb.
The Tortoise E1 5a
More like HVS than E1. Couple of committing moves at the start but then the rest is a scramble.
Sublux Arete E1
Good Climb, deserves at least a star or 2 two for the experience factor. Felt very intimidating from below but the rock's better than what it looks, just need to think about where youre placing gear and what youre pulling on. If I did it again Id whck a belay in at the ledge at the 50m mark, the last part involves climbing around a corner and the rope drag doubles.
Agadir Tower:
Chasse au Tressor E1 5b
Solid for the grade. The descent (downclimb the Severe) is not recommended in the dark with no headtorches!
Icebox Canyon
Sunset Crack E1 5c
'ard but safe. ish. Managed to almost sever a rope on a fall, but plenty of gear. The description could be clearer tho. There's no photo and the description states simply 'Takes an obvious crack and arete in the bay up and left of Crank and GO'. It would be helpful to know if you stay on the face with the crack all the way up, or move onto the slabby arete at some point.
The White Dome Tower 3
Leaving Las Vegas E2 5c
Really cool climb, 3 stars.
Central Arete E2
Photo could be a bit clearer for this. We started out going the wrong way on the second pitch, Apart from that, fair at the grade. Also we put in a new ab station at the top of the route which with 60m twins you can abseil all the way to the deck.