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Topic - Going leashless -- couple of questions

valjean - on 10 Jan 2013
after a few seasons of climbing with leashes on i decide that it was time to give leash less climbing a real go this season. been ok so far.

when running laps on TR or on single pitches, im not to concerned about dropping a tool. the prospect of dropping a tool on a multi-pitch does worry me a bit. So i have rigged a DIY spinner tethers - small climbing crabs, a spinner from the hardware store, and accessory webbing.

The question i have is regarding the safety/danger of these tethers. I keep getting that image from the BD instructions with a guy falling and his axes coming down and rearranging his face.

The manufacturers all say this thing is not designed to take a fall on, I imagine my DIY job is in the same boat. But reading and searching through these forums, ive found a number of people who see/feel the tethers are an added safety in the case of a fall -- having taken a fall on them.

any thoughts?

2nd question is on the safety of clipping into the bottom of your axes while placing gear (either with the rope or directly with your personal acnhor/tether. I've climbed with people who do this quite regularly (hard point themselves into the axe, cinch up the tether, then put in screws. And im certain ive clipped into the bottom of an axe with the rope while making a V-thread or building the belay.

any thoughts on this?

thanks in advance
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