/ climbing grades should include time taken to complete climb

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BolderLicious - on 11 Jan 2013
If climbing grades included the time it should take to
do the climb in one continous push,with no falls, wouldn't this give people a better idea of the difficulty of the climb.
So the right unconquerable at stanage edge has to be climbed fast because
the average hvs climber would not have the stamina to stand still and chat to his mates below for ten minutes!A time could be given for the crux alone and this would help-technically very hard climbs with double dynos could have very short times for the crux such as 5 seconds!!
3 Names - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:

bit like a sport grade then?
3 Names - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:

Your bored this morning aren't you?
1poundSOCKS - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious: It'd be great if every route had a speed record, like 'The Nose'!
Bob_the_Builder - on 11 Jan 2013
We need grades to factor in walk-in distance too! The number of times I've had my eye on a route but the walk was too long and I was pumped out when I got there....
Fredt on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:

I always thought it would be useful if guidebooks would recommend the best breakfast to have before attempting a particular route.
BolderLicious - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to Bob_the_Builder:
I used to live in scotland and would only climb on sea cliffs because walk ins were short!
john arran - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to Fredt:

I thought that was obvious: a Continental breakfast for limestone sport, a full fry-up for grit, porridge for Scottish winter and Weetabix for anything on the Culm.
nniff - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:

Isn't the no falls record for Right Wall something over five hours? Must be a doddle then with that definition.
BolderLicious - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to nniff:
Need to take the average from climbers who climb that particular grade regualrly.
Bob_the_Builder - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:

Sometimes I find training at the indoor wall a bit daunting because of the walk in.
needvert on 11 Jan 2013
I think for each climb, there should be a table with your height, and the grade of the climb for someone of that height.

BolderLicious - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to needvert:
This is a good point-some climbs are impossible if you are too short or tall.
Dave 88 - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to john arran:
> (In reply to Fredt)
>
> Weetabix for anything on the Culm.

As if you need any extra help to shit yourself when climbing on the culm!

I like climbing - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:
No it wouldn't. People climb at different speeds. One of my mates practically goes to sleep on overhangs and has to be reminded that anything sloppy is not a pillow.....
Chris Harris - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to I like climbing:
> anything sloppy is not a pillow.....

Quite.

ianstevens - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to needvert: Don't forget the other table of waist circumference to difficulty. Although I guess you'd need another for safety. A narrow chimney might be that bit harder if you're a hef, but lets be honest, you're never going to fall out of it.
Beardyman - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to ianstevens: Take the grade of your climb (converted to the Aussie grade), divide by your age, add the square root of your height to weight ratio, subtract your ape index, add the hair colour factor quotient, (add 1 if you have a beard, 0.5 if not a full luxuriant beard), multiply by the number of pitches, divide by the number of minutes it took you and Hey Presto!!
BolderLicious - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:
A grade should look likethis in a guidebook:
hvs 5b 7mins L7 A2
hard very severe 5b 7 minutes for whole climb leg difficulty 7 arm difficulty 2
efrance24234 - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious: mountain spirit? Is that you?
ads.ukclimbing.com
Robert Dickson on 11 Jan 2013 - rcd.jb.man.ac.uk
In reply to BolderLicious: : This is UKC, your modified grade does not contain any information as to what trousers are required for the ascent. Honestly...
ianstevens - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious: Don't forget to add the 'I'm a moron' grade. For example:

Three Pebble Slab: HVS 5a(E1 Moron)
GrendeI on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to ianstevens: you had to open that can didn't you ;)
ianstevens - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to GrendeI: Sorry, but it was the best example I could think of. The system could also be extended to include the "complete and utter moron" (CUM) grade, for anyone who thinks anything warrants the mythical beast of E0.
John Stainforth - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:

Important as the arm and leg factors are, I would say that even more relevant are:
The Gulp Factor
The Gloom Factor (for climbs like Black Cleft on Cloggy)
and The Sphincter Factor*

*In a similar vein to recommending the necessary breakfasts for a given climb, guidebooks should also indicate the nearest suitable locations for relieving oneself before a climb. The greater the Sphincter Factor, the more necessary this is. With an Extreme Sphincter Factor (also known as a Brown Alert), there is a risk that the location is on the climb itself.
BolderLicious - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to ianstevens:
My friend Neil climbs E3 and fell off three pebble slab and split his nose open.The fall isdefinitely E1!
Dave 88 - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:

The fall might be E1 but the climb isn't.
Tom V - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:


What about pipe smokers? You must have seen the Grey Slab photo.
ianstevens - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious: Don't fall?

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