UKC

If climbing grades included the time it should take to
do the climb in one continous push,with no falls, wouldn't this give people a better idea of the difficulty of the climb.
So the right unconquerable at stanage edge has to be climbed fast because
the average hvs climber would not have the stamina to stand still and chat to his mates below for ten minutes!A time could be given for the crux alone and this would help-technically very hard climbs with double dynos could have very short times for the crux such as 5 seconds!!

In reply to BolderLicious:

bit like a sport grade then?

In reply to BolderLicious:

Your bored this morning aren't you?

In reply to BolderLicious: It'd be great if every route had a speed record, like 'The Nose'!

We need grades to factor in walk-in distance too! The number of times I've had my eye on a route but the walk was too long and I was pumped out when I got there....

In reply to BolderLicious:

I always thought it would be useful if guidebooks would recommend the best breakfast to have before attempting a particular route.

In reply to Bob_the_Builder:
I used to live in scotland and would only climb on sea cliffs because walk ins were short!

In reply to Fredt:

I thought that was obvious: a Continental breakfast for limestone sport, a full fry-up for grit, porridge for Scottish winter and Weetabix for anything on the Culm.

In reply to BolderLicious:

Isn't the no falls record for Right Wall something over five hours? Must be a doddle then with that definition.

In reply to nniff:
Need to take the average from climbers who climb that particular grade regualrly.

In reply to BolderLicious:

Sometimes I find training at the indoor wall a bit daunting because of the walk in.

I think for each climb, there should be a table with your height, and the grade of the climb for someone of that height.

In reply to needvert:
This is a good point-some climbs are impossible if you are too short or tall.

In reply to john arran:

As if you need any extra help to shit yourself when climbing on the culm!

In reply to BolderLicious:
No it wouldn't. People climb at different speeds. One of my mates practically goes to sleep on overhangs and has to be reminded that anything sloppy is not a pillow.....

In reply to I like climbing:

Quite.

In reply to needvert: Don't forget the other table of waist circumference to difficulty. Although I guess you'd need another for safety. A narrow chimney might be that bit harder if you're a hef, but lets be honest, you're never going to fall out of it.

In reply to ianstevens: Take the grade of your climb (converted to the Aussie grade), divide by your age, add the square root of your height to weight ratio, subtract your ape index, add the hair colour factor quotient, (add 1 if you have a beard, 0.5 if not a full luxuriant beard), multiply by the number of pitches, divide by the number of minutes it took you and Hey Presto!!

In reply to BolderLicious:
A grade should look likethis in a guidebook:
hvs 5b 7mins L7 A2
hard very severe 5b 7 minutes for whole climb leg difficulty 7 arm difficulty 2

In reply to BolderLicious: mountain spirit? Is that you?

In reply to BolderLicious: : This is UKC, your modified grade does not contain any information as to what trousers are required for the ascent. Honestly...

In reply to BolderLicious: Don't forget to add the 'I'm a moron' grade. For example:

Three Pebble Slab: HVS 5a(E1 Moron)

In reply to ianstevens: you had to open that can didn't you

In reply to GrendeI: Sorry, but it was the best example I could think of. The system could also be extended to include the "complete and utter moron" (CUM) grade, for anyone who thinks anything warrants the mythical beast of E0.

In reply to BolderLicious:

Important as the arm and leg factors are, I would say that even more relevant are:
The Gulp Factor
The Gloom Factor (for climbs like Black Cleft on Cloggy)
and The Sphincter Factor*

*In a similar vein to recommending the necessary breakfasts for a given climb, guidebooks should also indicate the nearest suitable locations for relieving oneself before a climb. The greater the Sphincter Factor, the more necessary this is. With an Extreme Sphincter Factor (also known as a Brown Alert), there is a risk that the location is on the climb itself.

In reply to ianstevens:
My friend Neil climbs E3 and fell off three pebble slab and split his nose open.The fall isdefinitely E1!

In reply to BolderLicious:

The fall might be E1 but the climb isn't.

In reply to BolderLicious:


What about pipe smokers? You must have seen the Grey Slab photo.

In reply to BolderLicious: Don't fall?