/ climbing grades should include time taken to complete climb
do the climb in one continous push,with no falls, wouldn't this give people a better idea of the difficulty of the climb.
So the right unconquerable at stanage edge has to be climbed fast because
the average hvs climber would not have the stamina to stand still and chat to his mates below for ten minutes!A time could be given for the crux alone and this would help-technically very hard climbs with double dynos could have very short times for the crux such as 5 seconds!!
bit like a sport grade then?
Your bored this morning aren't you?
I always thought it would be useful if guidebooks would recommend the best breakfast to have before attempting a particular route.
I used to live in scotland and would only climb on sea cliffs because walk ins were short!
I thought that was obvious: a Continental breakfast for limestone sport, a full fry-up for grit, porridge for Scottish winter and Weetabix for anything on the Culm.
Isn't the no falls record for Right Wall something over five hours? Must be a doddle then with that definition.
Need to take the average from climbers who climb that particular grade regualrly.
Sometimes I find training at the indoor wall a bit daunting because of the walk in.
This is a good point-some climbs are impossible if you are too short or tall.
> Weetabix for anything on the Culm.
As if you need any extra help to shit yourself when climbing on the culm!
No it wouldn't. People climb at different speeds. One of my mates practically goes to sleep on overhangs and has to be reminded that anything sloppy is not a pillow.....
A grade should look likethis in a guidebook:
hvs 5b 7mins L7 A2
hard very severe 5b 7 minutes for whole climb leg difficulty 7 arm difficulty 2
Three Pebble Slab: HVS 5a(E1 Moron)
Important as the arm and leg factors are, I would say that even more relevant are:
The Gulp Factor
The Gloom Factor (for climbs like Black Cleft on Cloggy)
and The Sphincter Factor*
*In a similar vein to recommending the necessary breakfasts for a given climb, guidebooks should also indicate the nearest suitable locations for relieving oneself before a climb. The greater the Sphincter Factor, the more necessary this is. With an Extreme Sphincter Factor (also known as a Brown Alert), there is a risk that the location is on the climb itself.
My friend Neil climbs E3 and fell off three pebble slab and split his nose open.The fall isdefinitely E1!
The fall might be E1 but the climb isn't.
What about pipe smokers? You must have seen the Grey Slab photo.
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