/ good technique to minimise injury risk on falling off climb

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BolderLicious - on 11 Jan 2013
Is there a good technique to use when falling off a climb.Hands around the head perhaps?
Cameron94 on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious: Push out a little bit so you don't catch your feet on a ledge and break your ankles. The only fall I've had I sort of scraped down the rock doing exactly what I shouldn't but it wasn't very far so it was only pride that got hurt. My advice is try not to fall :-)
another_alex - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:
Haven't had many falls yet, but I would think

relaxing and not grabbing anything in a panic
- quickdraws for example [nasty injury pics warning] http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=5&MessageID=2851&Replie...


I'm always a bit worried with holding the rope in my teeth while pulling it up to clip in, that could end badly...
BolderLicious - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to Cameron94:
If you push out doesnt that risk pulling gear out too when the rope tightens?
Eric9Points - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to another_alex:
> (In reply to BolderLicious)

>
> I'm always a bit worried with holding the rope in my teeth while pulling it up to clip in, that could end badly...

A guy called Bish McArra fell of a route on Loudon Hill just as he'd clenched the rope between his teeth to pull out a bit more slack. He lost two of them.
another_alex - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to Eric9Points:
eek sounds nasty!
thermal_t - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to another_alex:
> (In reply to BolderLicious)
> - quickdraws for example [nasty injury pics warning] http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=5&MessageID=2851&Replie...

I didn't want to click on that, and there was a suitable warning, but for some reason I did anyway...shudder.
Cheese Monkey - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious: Try not to grab the rope as you might want your arms to stop yourself mashing your face into the rock etc. Or even to balance you mid-flight. Like a bird
GeoffG - on 12 Jan 2013
In reply to Eric9Points:
Ha ha. Sounds like the Bish I remember from the 80's. A real character.
Seem to remember staying with him on the way to the Ben back in the day.
All an alcoholic fuzz!
needvert on 12 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:

"Toprope"
Jonny2vests - on 12 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:
> (In reply to Cameron94)
> If you push out doesnt that risk pulling gear out too when the rope tightens?

It kind of happens automatically, you don't usually need to actively jump outward unless you really need to miss something (in which case you screwed up your risk assessment).

One way to avoid injury is to make sure your belayer knows how to give you a soft belay; not too stingy with the rope if you can afford it. That will also help with not pulling the gear out.
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John Stainforth - on 12 Jan 2013
In reply to another_alex:

This is one of the reasons why it is often better to clip gear at chest level or even waist level.

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