/ leaders who dont protect traverses and belayers reading books
And what about bad leaders-people for example who dont place gear on long traverses so you can swing a long way, perhaps into a wall?
Perhaps you know someone who leads while eating sandwiches or listening to music through headphones!
Trying to write an article for a climbing mag, are we?
I don't read climbing mags!
My partner and I often dozed off whilst belaying each other on various big wall routes in Yosemite.
Belaying is so boring. I normally like to clock fanny on adjacent routes.
Didn't stub cigarettes out on a rope too did he?
So you often woke up and thought you were dreaming you
were on a climb?
I see failure to protect a traverse as an act of generosity. It gives the second an extra 'lead'.
BTW I agree with Jon Stewart about the traverses, plus it is character building, plus if they want to see protection along the traverse they should place the gear themselves on lead.
> So you often woke up and thought you were dreaming you
> were on a climb?
I usually woke up dreaming I was at home in bed.
Poor sod! He hasn't got a cup of tea or anything to read.
both suck, but backseat climbers are worse.
I have taken a phone call, eaten a sandwich, had a drink, looked at the guide book when belaying (not all at the same time, I can't multi-task that much!). I am sure this makes me a bad person, but they where my second, and I was using a reverso, and was hungry/thirsty etc.
Think yourself lucky, not that many years ago they'd be smoking a joint. It doesn't matter if you don't fall.
I once booked a package holiday in Greece whilst halfway up Bent Crack at Stanage.
The travel agent had found a holiday for me, and phoned me when I was on the ledge halfway up. All I had to do was give them my credit card number to confirm the booking.
Led and followed plenty of traverses where there wasn't any opportunity to place gear. If you can't place gear for a good reason (very pumped/none available/etc) then I wouldn't complain too loudly (well, maybe I would if the traverse was bloody hard and I was looking at a nasty swing) but if the leader is just being lazy/being a d*ck then I would probably point it politely and maybe get a little less polite if he/she didn't make an effort to mend his/her ways.
Done plenty of consulting the guide while someone is on lead but that's generally because they are stationary and asking wtf to do next. Done lots of things in addition to belaying when someone is seconding on hands free setup....
...or is this thread just a competition about who can do the dodgiest thing while belaying?
Climbing with some spanish/french guys I'd be more pressed to find someone who wasn't stoned at the crag. "ce n'est pas une problem...c'est un gri gri" oh goodie. Still...seemed to be safe for a relative given value of safe.
I've been in North America now for over three decades and still have to remind my friends when leading to protect the second on traverses. So is there a prize for getting both reading a book and traversing into the tale?
I have experienced a leader who protected the crux move and then traversed a further 10m without gear on easier ground, one who protected a descending traverse and placed a bomb proof piece at the bottom of the long diagonal (on which he took tension) so that I was downclimbing the crux section with gear 10ft below and 10ft to one side, right on the lip of a roof, where the rope length would have resulted in a prussiced self rescue. We were on double ropes but he clipped both into the gear. I did not climb with him again.
Prize should be a book about traversing!
I find most belayers are pretty selfish.
I reckon you need to find someone who actually likes belaying.
> I find most belayers are pretty selfish.
> I reckon you need to find someone who actually likes belaying.
I like belaying and I concentrate 100% on what my climbing partner is doing. I know what he's thinking, what he's trying to work out and when he's in trouble. I aim to provide a really safe situation for him.
We've probably all climbed with some less than great belayers and I remember a girl belaying her partner on a fairly hard route. I heard him saying "watch me here" to which she replied "hang on I'm reading " !
The following day, still not really talking, we went up to do Gram Traverse on Drug Dome, which is a 5.10d 2 pitch variation finish to Oz, under a spectacular and huge roof about 500' up the cliff.
He lead the first traverse pitch, and didn't place or clip any of the gear, so in retaliation, when I lead the second traverse pitch, I didn't place or clip any gear either - it was a petulant game of bluff and Russian roulette.
By the time we reached the top, we had both frightened ourselves shitless!
The next thing I was sailing through the air in a great arc, all the gear was stacking up on the rope in front of me and I was crashing towards the bank.
Finally a stopper peg halted the process and I was unharmed, I prusiked up the rope back to the traverse line, clearing all the stripped gear on the way. Ironically we only had a few feet to do and ended up pissing ourselves laughing.
Were it not for my back pack absorbing the fall energy it could've ended much worse than just a foot fracture. Cue painful abseils and several agonising hours walking back to the car after missing the last bin.
The traversing thing just stopped me dead and I haven't been near that climber since!
just as I was getting into climbing, I seconded a route on a sea cliff that ended on a horseshoe of a ledge 7m up. The leader had decided to continue on something else from the other end of the ledge. I got bawled at for all the rope drag he'd given himself and when it came to topping out the first section the next piece of gear was somewhere behind me over my right shoulder leaving me with the prospect of a long swing into another face 5m away and probably into the water.
He was nice enough to apologise at the top of that one!
I remember alternate leading valkyrie at the Roaches well. I lead pitch 1, my first grit VS lead. Pitch two the leader slung the top of the flake and then put gear on BOTH ropes in the bottom of the flake. I took the sling off the top of the flake and down climbed to the gear, that was very interesting at the time!
He saw that I was running out of rope, so to alert me to this fact (which i already knew) he gave a good strong tug on the rope. Just held on by the skin of my teeth. would have tumbled 40+ metres and been in no shape to get him and the kiddies of the slide!
This is what gives me nightmares-belayers pulling you off the crag.
Leaders who protect traverses with books are the worst....
> This is what gives me nightmares-belayers pulling you off the crag.
Why should rurpīs belayer pulling him off the crag give you nightmares?
I know someone who has a metal plate in his head after taking a short leader fall off a VS, except he decked, his belayer had untied from the system and was sitting on a boulder a few feet away rolling a spliff!
Another belayer who takes hands of rope, stand miles back from the trad routes, and harp on about placing more gear,
My belaying is not perfect , I was once distracted by a group of woman at pothole stripping off and running around, I was so distracted I didn't notice my leader and was standing a bit further back than I should, near the top he took a fall, the first I knew about it was I was being dragged to the cliff at speed , stopping with the leader at head height, the last bit of gear popped.
I blag it was dynamic belaying but we both know I was a shit belayer that day, sorry mate, t
I remember tugging you off at Castle Naze and you thoroughly enjoyed it.
Some of these belayers should be facing a judge for reckless
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