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 Topic - is half-crimp usually the weakest grip-type?
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 by - Siderunner  on - 13 Jan 2013 |
I'm beginning to suspect my half-crimp is really weak, relative to open-handed.
Or does everyone find it much weaker than the full crimp and open handed position?
On the fingerboard (all 2 handed, no extra weight), I can do:
* Open-handed - front 3 on the smallest 3 finger pockets on the BM1000 10+ secs; middle two 10secs and front two 7secs in the deep 2 finger pockets
* Full-crimp - 5 seconds on a 1cm edge
* Half-crimp - can't hold bodyweight on a 2 inch flat edge
I don't normally train the half-crimp on the fingerboard because of this. But perhaps I should start training the half-crimp using a pulley or chair to take weight off?
[some background stats:
38 y.o., 66kg, 5'7, 10 yrs climbing,
V3-4, 6b+/6c o.s., 7a r.p.
target V5 and 7b r.p. this year ]
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