UKC

Anybody out there got any feedback on the new DMM Apex Axes as they could be my next gear spend . I have read UKC review just wondered if anybody has used them ?

In reply to zola: Hi I have bought a pair and although not used in anger yet, I am happy with the quality. I wanted, something of a near Nomic performance but wanted to retain the ability to plunge. I am going to the Ecrins ice climbing for a week, so I can let you know how they perform when I get back, my expectation is they should be pretty good on steep ice.
Regards,
Jon

In reply to jshields: Look forward to your feedback Jon and enjoy your trip.

In reply to zola: Cheers

In reply to zola:

Picked up a pair for myself a week ago, so far have been up a IV, 5 and a I with them. Having previously been making use of a pair of DMM Superflys I'm definitely sold on the upgrade! Good drive and handling on the 5 ground, and easy to use on lower angled neve. Surface finish is holding up to the abuse I've given them so far too.

The only downsides I've had so far are:
1) Getting the picks out of the more solid placements was a little tricky, although this is most likely due to me not having used axes with such a curve before.
2) I found my hands sliding down the shafts when gripping higher up. I put about a hands-width of the supplied tape on the top sections of the shafts before heading up the I (Broad Gully on Wednesday night) and they're working a treat - and I've still got a roll and a half of tape left!

Also managed to get Cotswolds to pricematch down from £350, which was nice.

In reply to zola:

I have used mine on various mixed routes this season and love them! the shaft has great clearance and the pick weights make fore great sticks in turf, they handle very like a Nomic but more usable overall, if you are climbing III - VIII these are the axes for you. each axe comes with a roll of indestructible plumbers tape. before I took them out I was worried that the piddly hammer would be useless but so far it has been great for smashing in pegs and warthogs. the adze is small but bearable. the only qualm I have is the picks appear to be made of butter, after sharpening one they are getting shorter and shorter quickly, they are great on mixed routes though, biting really well while torquing.

a short video of me seconding the crux on coronary bypass in corrie an lochan with them in the gorms is here:

youtube.com/watch?v=aBt2j9ZfMn4&

In reply to connor: jesus man, you made that look grade VIII! a good example of how to fanny about seconding!

In reply to zola:

haha it was a really cool route but there was just nothing to swing at coming out of that crux corner!!

In reply to connor:

Used my new apex axes today. Love them. The weight and balance is really good as is the shaft clearance. They plunge well and dagger very well. Good job dmm.

In reply to connor: was that nut stuck? Didn't see you give it any time for retrieval ..

In reply to zola: Thanks to everybody's feedback, went up to brown cove crags to try them out today but nothing was in so ended up at hodge close for some dry tooling. Big thanks to the two lads who helped out with the monos and hope you get your roof route crushed soon. Shame on any turf hackers today it needs to be in !!!!

In reply to zola:

it was insitu and buried, the video starts from a good few long moves off the deck and couldn't really de arsed smashing about for ages, i had just spent 15 minuets getting one out of the belay

In reply to zola: Hi Zola, back from the Ecrins last night. Axes were great on steep ice, good clearance and good hooking. Plunged well on easy ground and the handles were comfortable to hang on. Happy customer!
Regards,
Jon

In reply to zola: Hi Zola, I have been using a set this winter on everything from 1 to V,6 and they have been superb. Mainly mixed so far but a spot of ice and they perform equally well on both. Buy em!

In reply to connor: Good advert for them but could you enlarge on your comment that they are "more usable overall".
When I have compared the two they appear to have such a similar angle that people could almost be tempted to say that some copying had gone on!