/ lakes conditions

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EBclimbing - on 16 Jan 2013
What are the conditions like in the lakes, anyone know of anything going at the moment... mixed, ice, gully it doesn't matter? Will be heading over regardless on Saturday and we're happy to climb anything up to grade V.
Simon Theobald - on 16 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: We went up to Brown Cove Crags, Helvellyn today. There was a some ice starting to form but still very delicate. The gullies had a small amount of totally unconsolidated snow. There were a few teams on Viking Buttress but Red Tarn Face looked pretty sparse. There is of course a forecast for a lot of snow on Friday so it will soon be all change. As usual conditions in the Lakes change on a daily basis!
Wesley Orvis - on 16 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

Best coverage seems to be in the Langdale, Bowfell, Old Man and Wetherlam area.
Orgsm on 16 Jan 2013
In reply to Wesley Orvis:
> (In reply to EBclimbing)
>
> Best coverage seems to be in the Langdale, Bowfell, Old Man and Wetherlam area.

Does that mean you know of routes being done in Langdale or soft powder as well.....
Gav Parker - on 16 Jan 2013
In reply to A Game of Chance:

Hi

I was out round the coniston fells today...just lots of soft powder and no ice at any levels....
Baron Weasel - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to Gav Parker: Been up Red Screes today. Bits of ice starting to form. Watched 3 guys playing on a small formation on the left of the scree's who looked to be having fun! There was less snow than I expected, but I think it may have been blown elsewhere?

Off to do Kilnshaw chimney very soon :-)

BW
A Mountain Journey - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to Baron Weasel: Coniston area was mostly soft powder today, pretty thin covering too. Someone climbing on Dow, but looked completely black. Couple of photos from the day here: http://mark-mountainjourneys.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/winters-here-thursday-17th-january-2013.html

Mark
paulh.0776 - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: I was up and around Brown Cove Crags and on Helvellyn today. It was bitterly cold on the summit in the wind once the cloud came in around 1.30pm. There is just a very thin layer of powder lying around. The gullies have nowt much in em, but there is some ice forming here and there, but not masses of it. There were a few pairs on the main crags, who looked to be enjoying themselves but I think it'll be better when this next lot arrives.
Fingers crossed for a good dump....I'll put some pics up tomorrow morning..

http://paulhorsmanphotographer.blogspot.co.uk
Mtnexploits - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: I was up around Glaramara yesterday and had a look onto Ravens Crag, everything looked a bit thin. The snow got a bit better over the tops.
paraffin on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to A Mountain Journey:
> Someone climbing on Dow, but looked completely black.
>
Blacker than a Ugandan coal mine!
WTF!

ITS on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: Obviously, conditions are not in on Bowfell Buttress, as the photo shows:-

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=211868

Mind you, that's being trendy for you. Looks easier to climb the bit shown without crampons and axes. No doubt I'll be told that I wasn't there so can't comment. What's wrong with dusting off powder snow before using handholds?
Alex Willey - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

Walking conditions were great this week. Quite a lot of snow movement due to the wind, a little wind slab forming in places. It's going to be all change tomorrow though with this snow.

Here are a few photos from this week:

http://www.facebook.com/mountainmomentum
stuart58 - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to ITS: why cant peoplr wait and not ruin a classic route
David Kay - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to ITS:
> (In reply to EBclimbing) Obviously, conditions are not in on Bowfell Buttress, as the photo shows:-
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=211868

"Dave Williams, just checked your profile, climbing more than 20 years and only climbed E3 ha ha
Stuart Wood - 17/Jan/13"

Looks like people who climb routes that are out of condition really are idiots.

Stuart Wood - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to David Kirsfelds:

It was in brilliant condition, turf solid, bit too much snow if anything. If you had any knowledge of the Lakes, which you clearly don't, the start of the crux pitch of BB is quite steep and is usually not white. Sorry I hurt your feelings, but I really don't care. Winter climbing is just something I do when you can't go rock climbing. Rather than have a go at me via an internet forum why not sign up to your local climbing gym and put some effort in, you never know your grade might improve.

Woody
paulh.0776 - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

Images of snow conditions Brown Cove Crags and Helvellyn summit yesterday.

http://paulhorsmanphotographer.blogspot.co.uk
David Kay - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to Stuart Wood: I'm sure you know a lot more about winter climbing than me and I'm not debating it. I'm calling you an idiot for "having a go" at people (now including me) who don't climb as hard as you. Get a grip.

David
Conan - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to David Kirsfelds:

At least you know when things aren't in condition !

Some people are just too desperate to get out.
Gerry_Doncaster - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to David Kirsfelds:
I'm calling you an idiot for "having a go" at people (now including me) who don't climb as hard as you. Get a grip.
>
> David

Well said. For most climbers the most important thing is just to enjoy your climbing, whatever level you're at rather than being a competitive macho man who is only interested in pushing the grades and trying to be "better" than anybody else.
dutybooty - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:
So general consensus is lakes is not realt in condition?
Stuart Wood - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to dutybooty:

Ian Parnell has facebooked that he had a great day on Bowfell yesterday, but hey, what does he know about winter climbing!

Woody
dutybooty - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: Thanks mate.
Simon Caldwell - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to Stuart Wood:

I'd be astonished if I heard Ian Parnell belittle someone for not climbing hard enough.
alex pickard - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:
anyone know how much snow is falling up there, road to borrowdale/patterdale passable?
Conan - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to Gerry_Doncaster:
> Well said. For most climbers the most important thing is just to enjoy your climbing, whatever level you're at rather than being a competitive macho man who is only interested in pushing the grades and trying to be "better" than anybody else.

Another example why UKC needs a "LIKE" button
Gael Force - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to Stuart Wood: Dear Woody, What an excellent reply to Mr Kirsfelds, some of the ill informed rubbish on here can be very annoying. I see you have lost a little hair since you used to work in Rock and Run in the good old days before I became too fat to climb properly.

Could you advise me how many pairs of socks I should wear before attempting to put my slippers on during the winter months?
Also is it permissible under UKC police protection of turf and rock rules if I can mow my lawn during the winter months, as I don't want to damage any organisms.
(It is rare that I can manage an organism nowadays in any case)
Regards,
GF
efrance24234 - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: jesus christ its like there is a bunch of kids argueing here. can we keep it about the lakes conditions please. Some good advice avalable on these threads but you have to sieve through all the shit to get it.
Wesley Orvis - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

Not much has fallen in the Lakes over the last few days, still snow on the hills from last Sunday but no roads are impassible yet, went up Kirkstone Pass last night not a real lot of snow yet to be honest. Bowfell to Coniston got best coverage no idea of climbing conditions though. Any one been up high lately?
faceworker on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to efrance24234: Exactly what I was thinking! Change the thread to 'petty argueing' if that's what you want to do! I want to know lakes conditions as heading up tonight? Don't think there will be much if anything so may end up walking instead - still better than being in the city!
A Mountain Journey - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to Wesley Orvis:

Been out in the Yewdale / Coniston area this lunchtime, photos show what we found, not much snow or ice.

http://mark-mountainjourneys.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/winter-update-white-lady-coniston-18th.html

Mark
Baron Weasel - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to A Mountain Journey: Kilnshaw chimney was good last night, ideal for a quick excersion and very beginner friendly. Turf was solid, bits of ice and neve. Soloed most of it and placed 1 small peg for awkward step.

BW
Simon Caldwell - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to alex pickard:
Radar suggests little or no snow has reached the Lakes yet. And latest models suggest it may not get that far north at all.
There's more forecast for the weekend with the chance of a big dump on Sunday night.
PontiusPirate on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to A Mountain Journey:

From all this I take the following (after sifting out the usual arguments): more 'traditional' winter routes are not in viable condition due to no consolidated snow and little ice, despite reasonable frozen turf up high (though Blea Water Gill did get climbed in reportedly 'thin' conditions yesterday morning);
more 'modern' hard mixed routes more likely to be do-able (though pick the route carefully).

Does that seem a reasonable assessment at this time?

PP.
Exile - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to PontiusPirate:

Yes
PontiusPirate on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to Exile:

Cheers! Now that's the kind of reply we actually need on these threads!!!

PP.
stuart58 - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to A Mountain Journey: is brown cove turf frozen?
climber666 on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to alex pickard:
> (In reply to EBclimbing)
> anyone know how much snow is falling up there, road to borrowdale/patterdale passable?

No snow on roads. However, very windy and there will be significant windslab.
climber666 on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to PontiusPirate:
> (In reply to A Mountain Journey)
>
> Does that seem a reasonable assessment at this time?
>
There are plenty of routes in condition, and plenty not. It's a case of rubbing noses with it to find out due to highly variable micro-climates etc.


Baron Weasel - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to PontiusPirate: Weatherline send a fell assessor to the top of Helvellyn each day, so tend to have as good a report as anyone. This is what they said for today based on yesterdays observations:

'Snow is currently lying at all levels but doesn't not reach any significant depth below 500m. Even above this level, the scouring action of the stong southeasterly wind means that large areas of east through to south facing slopes are generally snow free, whereas drifts and hollows where the snow has accumulated contain depths of up to 70cm. The wind is currently redepositing snow onto west through to north facing aspects.'

Check their site later and it should be updated with todays observations and tomorrows forecast.

BW
paulh.0776 - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to stuart58:

Hi Stuart,
I assume you meant Brown Cove Crags, the turf was pretty solid but not fully Scottish solid on Thurs.
There were some pairs out on the crags (stepped ridge and left buttess) and there was some bits of ice about on some of the other routes routes.
there was another pair on of Helvellyn who topped out near the shelter from Red Tarn.
If you go I'm sure you'll find plenty to keep you entertained for the day, have fun, Sunday looks like the better day

pics from thurs at

http://paulhorsmanphotographer.blogspot.co.uk
stuart58 - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to paulh.0776: is really worth a trip to the lakes tomorrow
Baron Weasel - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to stuart58:
> (In reply to A Mountain Journey) is brown cove turf frozen?

It'll be like concrete!

Freg1 - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

I was out in Red Tarn Cove on Helvellyn today- had planned to do viking buttress but it was almost all black apart from the top third which was still not very wintry really.

We went over and climbed the first part of V corner, which was good and froxen to 2/3 height, then wound our way up to the top, encountering the odd bit of turf that was not fully frozen. Snow is almost at sugary and unconsolidated, and there is little of it around.
Clive H - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to Freg1:

As Stuart Wood has already said conditions are really quite good if a bit thin.

The turf is well frozen and even the easier gully lines are quite entertaining if you are prepared to 'mix climb' the occasional breaks. Best climbing is on the higher crags which can look a bit bare on first look during the approach but with an open mind good climbing exists.

As climb666 states, some routes in some not. Some localised soft slab developing which had easy shears but all very easy to avoid on the NE facing crag I was on.
jowzed - on 18 Jan 2013
Some light snow coming down in Keswick at the moment, lying on the ground so far.
Tom the tall on 19 Jan 2013
In reply to j-dizzle: Just finishing work in Keswick. No snow really overnight, a few flurries was all. We've had nothing new fall since the weekend in the northern fells, and the wind has been strong, scouring/depositing a lot of what is around. Not classic winter conditions generally, although I'm sure folks might find something with a bit of nosing around.
hfac - on 19 Jan 2013
In reply to Tom the tall: Just wondering, has anyone seen what's it like in the Western lakes around Great gable and that lot?
IainFP on 19 Jan 2013
In reply to hfac: has been very dry coupled with the strong winds a lot of the snow has stripped although ground frozen right down to sea level. Would imagine SW through to N gullies etc could be full of powder. Buttresses look fairly black from the coast. Guess it depends on what you're looking for, would be a grand walking day.
Radioactiveman - on 19 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

Was out kirkstone pass today, was pretty warm tbh apart from when you caught the wind. Lots of unconsolidated powder and turf firm to hard in places just not everywhere

no real neve just powder,a fair bit of ice in kilnshaw chimney to be had but the snow was all powder and unconsolidated. Had a walk up to red screes then a nosy over at raven crag gully again reasonable ice but short on anything else. Good day for walking tbh

charlie out - on 19 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: This is in reply to anybody for conditions:

Just been for a run up around Catstye Cam, Swirral Edge and Stiding Edge.

If your into Mixed,which is alot of the Lakes winter climbing now, then you will find something to climb.

Turf frozen mostly all around, but where it is deep, its frozen inside and spongey on the top. Snow cover is minimal, but for rock/buttress routes, the conditios look good.

Where water has been running over rock, there is lots of ice formed. So if you really want ice, you could pick your way up many fell sides, taking little ice formations on your way.

Classic gullys are not choked with snow & if they are, its windslab that has formed into good windblown neve....

If the weather continues as it has been, then lots of easier water courses will be frozen on medium to high gorund.
A Mountain Journey - on 19 Jan 2013
In reply to charlie out:
This is an update on yesterdays blog. Some photos from this afternoon, taken around the Dunmail Raise / Grisedale Tarn areas. The ice is very thin and brittle.
http://mark-mountainjourneys.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/winter-update-white-lady-coniston-18th.html

Mark
charlie out - on 19 Jan 2013
In reply to A Mountain Journey:

Wind has been coming from the East/S-East... lots of small ice formations around the Glenridding YHA...

Sure S/E aspects will be good, but watercourses need another week to freeze well.

Kirkstone Pass area looking good, building up. Kirkstone Quarries, although not fully formed is on its way.
stuart58 - on 19 Jan 2013
In reply to Radioactiveman: anyone climbed on helvellyn face today. We turned back from.brown cove crags it was warming up. But many people going in think turf might be destroyed if not frozen.
Si Withington - on 19 Jan 2013
In reply to stuart58:

Hi Stuart

I know people had a play on V Corner and parties have looked at Viking Buttress, but I've not heard any reports of anything in anything like decent condition. I also know people who turned back from the east face, Brown Cove and Great End today due to 'not quite there yet' conditions. It all needs a bit longer, a dump of snow, a mini freeze/thaw and some patience.

We had a look at Blea Water Gill - it's not properly formed yet and is weakly bonded with water still running behind what ice there is. Pics from today and from next time we're out are here: http://www.facebook.com/lakelandascents

Si
Wesley Orvis - on 19 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

Managed to find lots of bits of thin ice to play on on the way up Red Screes today ice is forming all over not bad for soloing but not quite there yet for ice screws yet, a few more days of this and the water ice lines should be in. Not much snow though lots of frozen and unfrozen turf.
LakesWinter on 19 Jan 2013
In reply to PontiusPirate: Here is a condition report from Deepdale today.

We climbed Link Cove Beck right hand, good, if a little damp. The left hand is getting there but needs several more days to be climbable, I'd guess at least 4 but it depends on many factors.

We then went up to Hutaple Crag. The mixed is not there on Hutaple and neither is it on Black Buttress (portcullis ridge et al). There is simply not enough snow and no rime. Turf is very good up there though. We climbed East Hutaple Groove, which was excellent and iced but nearer III/IV than the guidebook grade. For the guidebook grade lots of neve would be needed but it currently goes on quite thin but good water ice. All the belays were crap today though. Stubby ice screws were useful.

Other things I saw. Scrubby. Pendulum Ridge looks good. the mixed on the rest of the crag is not white enough for me today. I didn't see the top corner on Heorot - misty.

A Mountain Journey - on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to LakesWinter: Just back from Red Screes, East Cove. Snow pretty thin, ice mostly brittle, although some was forming well. Really good day for a winter walk. A few snaps here: http://mark-mountainjourneys.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/east-cove-of-red-screes-winter-update.html

Mark
Wesley Orvis - on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

Had a walk around the north western fells today, over crag Hill and onto Grasmoor frozen turf from valley to summit not much snow though, although throughout the day today Helvellyn and the Dodds looked like they have had a right good covering and looked caked on the journey home compared to the journey there and was still snowing and more due.
stuart58 - on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to Wesley Orvis: did climbers traverse and south gully on bowfel snow not consolidated. Turf is not frozen enough. Yet 4 partys on the bowfell buttress. Is it really frozen on there? Im not sure! !!!!
Exile - on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

All the crags on Bowfell were in very good condition today - I think they must have had some snow blown onto them, and hoared up in the clag, yesterday. We didn't have a camera with us but Bowfell Buttress, Cambridge Crag and North Buttress were all a lot whiter than in the guide book photos of them. Three teams were on Bowfell Buttress and looking to have a good, if crowded, time. After a little pratting around on Cambridge Crag we eventually did Plaque Route, which while not in the same league as Bowfell Buttress, is certainly better than the guide book makes it sound. If you've got time to climb in the next few days these crags would be a very good bet.
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Exile - on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to stuart58:

Seems we posted at the same time.

Turf not frozen enough - first time placements where we were.

Is it really frozen on there - yes.

Im not sure! !!!! - go and look next time - you might be suprised.
Double Knee Bar - on 20 Jan 2013
We did V corner on Red Tarn on Sat. Was in acceptable nick with proper solid turf. Ice was fairly brittle though. Today went to head up no.1 gully buttress but retreated into the gully on the left as we found the turf wasn't nearly enough frozen higher up on the right side of the buttress.
Had fun playing on an eliminate 5-6m grII-III ice fall that had formed in the gully.
Theres stuff to do if you look for it!
paraffin on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to Exile:
> we eventually did Plaque Route, which while not in the same league as Bowfell Buttress, is certainly better than the guide book makes it sound.

Sorry, after I did the F.W.A. of Plaque Route, I wrote the description which was along the lines of - "follow summer route"

I feel it is not really my place to tell people either how good or bad the route is - but it is nice after over 27 yrs to hear you enjoyed it.

BTW: I was out hacking about on skis on Raise on Sunday and found a 75mm thick layer of un-bonded windslab on North & West aspects.
see report here:
http://www.winterhighland.info/publicreports/index.php?50,3191

Now remind me which way the Climbers' Traverse on Bowfell faces?
johang - on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: Up to Gable today, pinnacle ridge in, quite a few parties (ourselves included) on there. Other lines seem in but unable to give a comprehensive list. Bit blowy on the way up.
The Grist - on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to Exile: I was one of those on bowfell buttress. As you have said conditions were excellent. It wasn't too crowded up there. One of the teams went walkabout looking for more interesting variations which made for interesting viewing.
machine - on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to johang: Was on great end today, turf was in brillient nick but snow in gullys seems a bit suspect. The snow is good and hard on top but soft and unconsolidated underneith. Saw teams on central gully and window gully. We bimbled up custs gully and then Climbed a nice little 40 meter turf and ice route on the east side of great end grade II/III, im calling it wallsend if it is a first ascent.
charlie out - on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to LakesWinter: We headed to Scrubby today. The right of the crag was black, but the left ok.. not lots of hoar, but solid turf and snow on all ledges/edges.. Did Wall Climb with Honza, he added a variation finish, called Stuck Axe (5?), because thats what happened.

Other teams on Heriot and Juniper Crack. Hoared slightly on the top pitches.

Link Cove looked nice.

We finished up Pendulum Gully and then onto the Ridge further up.
Dave Parton - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Exile: Agree. Mix conditions excellent on Cambridge Crags and Bowfell Buttress yesterday both crags very white with hoar. I'd say these conditions are only going to improve even more so in the next few days given the forcast. Enjoy
sbc_10 - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Dave Parton:
Here yer go, seen from across Mickleden at about 3pm on Sunday, the Bowfell crags poked out from the cloud.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=211988

Dave Parton - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to sbc_10: Nice one... a picture paints a thousand words
Exile - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to sbc_10:

Good picture. Pretty much says it all other than the turf under the snow on routes was well frozen.
Exile - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to sbc_10:

Interesting to compare your shot with this:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=211990

Conditions were obviously very localised, all about aspect and wind directing I suspect.
faceworker on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: We went up Hen Crag on whetherlam on saturday. nice little ice pitch pollwed by good frozon truf to the top. Some guys climbing very lean routes up the side of steel edge. Went up on Coniston on sunday. low water back frozen but lean - had been climbed from the bottom though. The top slab was do-able as were the bits higher up but a bit wet. Excellent conditions on the crags above low water, with a few ice pitchs - pretty brutal looking mixed exit routes though. The gullies looked good.
Exile - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to parafinn:

The description in the guide suggests there is no real line to the route which we didn't find to be the case as we climbed obvious, (once on the route,) grooves throughout.

There was some localised slab on Bowfell but the climbers traverse was fine - the wind appeared to have been funneled at the crags rather than coming over the top. I also suspect that Bowfell didn't get the 'base' layer Raise may have got for the slab to move about on.
faceworker on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to faceworker: When I said excellent conditions I meant - ok conditions!
BarmyAlex118 - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: Anyone know what the condition's around blencthara are like at all ?
Hoping to head there Wednesday when i get the day off
paraffin on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Exile:
> (In reply to parafinn)
> Ref Plaque Route:
> The description in the guide suggests there is no real line to the route which we didn't find to be the case as we climbed obvious, (once on the route,) grooves throughout.

Yes there is no real line to start - as you climb just about anywhere - as long as you get into the grooves to finish.

- pretty much as you found it.

The images of Bowfell above in this thread reveal some quite lean conditions - perfect for mixed climbing. Thankfully does look like the East wind has stripped most of the snow - therfore lessening avalanche risk in this area.


paraffin on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to joehall:
> Climbed a nice little 40 meter turf and ice route on the east side of great end grade II/III, im calling it wallsend if it is a first ascent.

How about calling it Bellend? ;-)

MFB - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:
heavy hoar(15cm deep)on the summit rocks of bowfell, lots of fresh snow drifting about, pretty cold wind
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=212062
sorry rubbish photo but gives you the idea
Orgsm on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

There's some nice ice on the crag above angle tarn..
Exile - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to parafinn:
> (In reply to Exile)

> The images of Bowfell above in this thread reveal some quite lean conditions - perfect for mixed climbing. Thankfully does look like the East wind has stripped most of the snow - therfore lessening avalanche risk in this area.

That's pretty much it I think.

DefenderKen - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

Was just out for a bimble up Helvellyn via Comb Crags with my 12 yr old son yesterday.

Pic might give you an idea, though a bit more snow fell overnight.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=212048


Doghouse - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to joehall:
> (In reply to johang) The snow is good and hard on top but soft and unconsolidated underneith.


That sounds very much like wind slab to me.. . :-/
Seb Lee on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: me and some friends made it up the lakes for the weekend and the conditions were mixed. below is a link to the climbing we did on the first day at blea water (ok conditions) but the second day we went to Sheltered crag area and not much was in (or that we saw)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SwjOp47ih6U
A Mountain Journey - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to Seb Lee: Been out on Red Screes today.Some good ice. Some of the gullies are loaded with knee deep powder. A few photos here: http://mark-mountainjourneys.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/raven-crag-gully-red-screes-tuesday.html

Mark
faceworker on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to A Mountain Journey: Here's a little video I made for GO outdoors. We headed out to Coniston last weekend trying to find some ice to climb. On Whetherlam and Old Man.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KVKNbRyqpY
faceworker on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: have a look at this vid I made from coniston this weekend.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KVKNbRyqpY
rockandroad - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

Does anyone know what the roads are like round little Langdale or the road to hodge close?
goose299 - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:
The road from Ambleside to hodge is fine
peas65 - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

Just seen that some one has climbed low water beck, anyone know whether this is in or Mark (mountain Journeys) is this what you went to have a look at?

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A Mountain Journey - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to peas65: Not what we went to look at. But i've heard it is in yes.
John Noblett - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to A Mountain Journey

went to Link Cove today, the left hand beck is not climbable but the right hand beck was good, running water under the iced slab in places so gear dodgy but fun none the less. The lowest steep bit is running with water so we by passed that. We then did Link Gully, excellent water ice all the way up but no useful snow, oddly there must have been a temperature inversion as any turf was well frozen in the gully proper but very wet above the climb as we walked off with pools of liquid water,then did some climbing on the upper beck icefall which was solid, walked up to Hart Crag, lots of ice and frozen turf but also tiring powder snow, we
met some people walking back from other climbs on Greehow End and they had to retreat because of unfrozen conditions on their climb. Good conditions if you find them but localised.
John Noblett - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to John Noblett:
Just checked the guide, the gully I referred to as Link Gully is actually called Step Gully in the guide in case anyone is going that way
Bryan W - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to peas65:

climbed low water beck yesterday and was in surprisingly good condition.will probably have improved by now,as hard frost last night and tonight.

Enjoy :)
machine - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to parafinn:
nah! wallsend because thats where my mate who was the second spent the night after being arrested for D n,D in Newcastle the other week. Bellend just sounds crude.
ERB - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to John Noblett: We did Step Gully on Sunday it was in good condition then.Has anyone had a look to see if Black crag ice fall is in?

Mark
nightmonkeyuk - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:
Supposed to be heading up Friday on the hunt for ice. Not sure if its worth it now with the forecast....
Jim Haydock - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to nightmonkeyuk:
You may be lucky on Friday ?
If you're only based in Lancaster it's not that far to be let down :)
JH.
Exile - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to nightmonkeyuk:

With an early start Haweswater or Red Screes should provide some sport.
peas65 - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to Exile:

Low water beck, first pitch had been climbed but pretty thin with big chunks coming loose. Top pitch really good and well worth the abseil in.

Turf coniston way was all very wet and the ice was a little hollow.
Simon Caldwell - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to Bryan W:
> climbed low water beck yesterday and was in surprisingly good condition

One man's 'good condition' is another man's 'just about climbable'!

We did it today. First pitch was very wet with quite a few holes and worrying ice quality whenever it got too near the flow. Ice mostly not thick enough for screws - I got one in full length, the rest stuck out by about a quarter. Mildly traumatic, and great fun.
Second pitch in much better condition, though with a short ice-free section to pass the big chockstone.
A few icy steps above this to play on, with varying degrees of solidity :-)

I reckon it'd be in good solid condition in 3 or 4 days, if it weren't for the thaw due at the weekend :-(
Jonny Nick - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

Considering heading up to Bowfell (Cambridge Crag) on saturday for some of the mixed routes. Anyone got any thoughts on whether it will be worth it. Seen the forecast and seems like could be alright, but maybe not. Any help much appreciated. Cheers
Wesley Orvis - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

Just got down from a night time ascent of Kilnshaw Chimney on Red Screes, good ice all the way up if a bit brittle in places, light snow falling for the whole time.
lithos on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to Jonny Nick:

in stunning condition today
Exile - on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to Jonny Nick:

The weatherline forecast looks ok - if the weather plays out as this forecast suggests you should get something done I'd have thought, but go up with a pretty open mind at to route choice.
lithos on 24 Jan 2013
Glen - on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to Exile:
> (In reply to Jonny Nick)
>
> The weatherline forecast looks ok

Really? Heavy snow friday night followed by rising temperatures doesn't sound good to me.

Exile - on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to Glen:

It's certainly not a dead cert', just more hopeful than I originally thiought - The heavy snow, last time I looked, is potentially for central and eastern England, so, if that is the case and the weather does play out as predicted on weatherline as follows:

Saturday
The day should be mostly fine and dry as one weather front has moved away to the east and before another arrives from the west to bring heavy rain overnight into Sunday. However there is a chance this rain may arrive from the west a little before dusk. Light westerly winds, freshening more moderate southerly towards the evening. Freezing level may be near 900m at first, but soon falling to 600m. Icy conditions likely at higher levels.

There could be some climbing saturday. (The base of Bowfell Buttress is at 700m ish and will only have been thawing for at most 24 hrs before re freezing, having been continually freezing for the best part of two weeks.)

I'd probably approach from Mickleden rather than the Band and Climbers Traverse.
lithos on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to Exile:

we returned via the climbers traverse (having approached via Mickleden) I wouldn't want much more loose snow on there as it's a bit intimidating (well i found it so - especially in the dark)
Exile - on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to lithos:

Certainly the snow on the climbers traverse on Sunday was loose - lack of freeze thaw. It only really builds big areas of slab when it has a huge amount of snow on it, but slipping off it / being knocked off by a small slide and going down the broken ground below it is always a real danger.

Interestingly when I compared our time for walking in via the traverse last Sunday to walking up from the valley mid December, the Mickleden approach was 10 minutes quicker. Might change my approach route of choice!
lithos on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to Exile:

it's a great approach until you hit the boulder fields, which are not that large but can talke a while to get across, and a lovely walk to boot. be great if there was decent track from the 'zag'
Little Billy - on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to Wesley Orvis:
Hi - Did you solo?

Was it stable enough?
pebbles - on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to peas65:
> (In reply to Exile)
>
> Top pitch really good and well worth the abseil in.
>
>
so you did it then! we were the folk you talked to at the top. glad you liked it!

Wesley Orvis - on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

Yep solo'd, took my little bro which was his first time in crampons and axes and even he soloed it, with a litlle help over the chockstone that is.
pebbles - on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to pebbles: ps - I second what Toreador said about the bottom pitch. Not technically hard but worryingly fragile.
Wesley Orvis - on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to Little Billy:

Hardly any snow in it, what is is easily avoidable and low down it's mostly water ice at about grade I/II with no cornice.
A Mountain Journey - on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to Wesley Orvis: A few photos of Kilnshaw Chimney, Red Screes. Taken early afternoon today: http://mark-mountainjourneys.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/kilnshaw-chimney-red-screes-thursday.html
Mark
Mountain Llama - on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: Had a stroll up to Great End via Skew Gill today. Skew Gill was full of powder but the direct finish was holding good ice. Had a look at Cental and South East Gullies, both have thin covering of powder most of the way I could see but they did not look like fun. There was a team on South East Gully negoatiating the chimney on pitch 2, which looked very lean. The mixed routes to the left of South East Gully look a better deal with quite a few streams of ice.

On descending, I saw a strange event - people where playing cricket on a cleared section of the ice on Sprinkling Tarn! What was more bizare is that they had cricket whites on...............think I need a drink!

Cheers Davey
The mixed routes to the left of South East Gully look a better deal with quite a few streams of ice.

Thanks for the post, that's great information. Looks like the wait may soon be over...

NMM

paraffin on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to lithos:

pix from Bowfell yesterday

Nice images! I have climbed Bowfell Butty twice in winter, in the dark - nice to see such intimate images. Well done & good work.

Good comments on the snow on the Climber's Traverse - nasty place at times.

BTW - what is in that great big orange rucksack?
Davie
ads.ukclimbing.com
In reply to EBclimbing:
Up Deepdale today -did Link Cove Ghyll rt hand-almost complete but fragile sections.
Greenhow End gullies iced up also Hart Crag but no consolidated snow.
Approaches hard work with the soft powder snow
Gerry_Doncaster - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: I did Central Gulley on Browncove Crags yesterday and it really wasn't in condition. Lots of soft powder, especially on the upper sections and very thin ice. Very difficult to get purchase with either crampons or axes. Quite a struggle in some places due to the conditions (not to mention a broken ice axe).
Wesley Orvis - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Gerry_Doncaster:
> (In reply to EBclimbing) I did Central Gulley on Browncove Crags yesterday and it really wasn't in condition. Lots of soft powder, especially on the upper sections and very thin ice. Very difficult to get purchase with either crampons or axes. Quite a struggle in some places due to the conditions (not to mention a broken ice axe).

I could of told you that from my chair in my office.
goose299 - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:
snowing in ambleside village this morning. there's going to be lots of power up high
stuart58 - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to goose299: hi is the turf frozen on brown cove crags
goose299 - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:
or powder even
Gerry_Doncaster - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to goose299: The powder was generally pretty soft especially higher up, the turf was a bit firmer but not fully frozen. I don't like using turf but in some places it was the only thing that offered any kind of purchase.
Timo Austino - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Gerry_Doncaster: pretty warm on red screes despite the falling snow - the powder seems to have wrapped the nice warm ground in a big insulating duvet.
System Shaper on 25 Jan 2013
Got back from Great End this morning. There's some quite deep powder about and it looked like central gully was beginning to form a cornice, however visibility was very bad so I can't be sure. (I went up the arete to the right of the gully). Anyway there's good frozen turf and iced over rocks on the buttresses which are climbable.
Exile - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: snowing hard in Kendal at the moment and has been for a good hour or so.
daveh444 - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Exile:Cheer's for that , Dont suppose you know what temperature it is there?
The Grist - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to daveh444: What are people's thoughts of driving across the wrynose pass early Sunday morning? I am wanting to get to wasdale to climb on Scafell. Am thinking the road will probably be undriveable and I will need to get there the long way the night before. I have access to a hut in Langdale which still leaves me some way short. Thanks
Exile - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to daveh444:

No sorry, it was a mixture light rain sleet and snow this afternoon and has turned to snow as rvrning has come on which would make me think it only just below freezing - two inches in our garden now though.
Jon Wickham - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to The Grist: I don't have information from today, but I doubt it will be passable. Wrynose and Hardknott were both closed a few days ago and it currently snowing heavily in the south lakes, so I would go the long way round!
Sam Simpson - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to The Grist: i say build a giant plough on the front of the car and go for it. :P
Exile - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to The Grist:

Think you'll need to go round.
A Mountain Journey - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to The Grist: Been snowing in Ambleside since this morning, now coming down pretty heavy. The roads through town are proving tricky to drive on, the passes will definitely be a no go tomorrow at least.
Carolyn - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to The Grist:

I think you're right, likely to be undriveable. Was dale MRT have had to get a few groups off Hardknott/Wrynose already this year, and we've had one on Newlands.
Newlands on Wednesday night, so before the snow that's arriving now, needed 4WD or chains from the Buttermere side.
Cwallace - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:
Anyone know if Kirkstone Pass is passable? Am Thinking of going to patterdale tomorrow to have a play on Helvelyn... Just wondering what the roads are like.

Cheers guys
Exile - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Cwallace:

Go around
Wesley Orvis - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

First proper dump of snow to hit Kendal this season, a good inch has fallen in the last few hours and still falling heavily, i reckon all passes will be closed tomorrow, maybe not Sunday though at it's due to warm up.
a lakeland climber on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Cwallace:

BBC site reporting it as shut.

ALC
boots - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: 4/5 inch in coniston.... :O)
Paul Crusher R - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: How much snow is on the fells now anyone..? Going for a ski tour tomorrow prob out of langdale, routes have got to be pants now unless slush or scratching up snowy rock is the thing... just wondered if enough has come down. 4/5 inch in Coniston is this true?
Petarghh - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Paul R: Snowing heavily in Ambleside, I would agree with 4 or 5 inches, roads in town are barely passable, ski touring would be awesome tomorrow if it stays cold !
Paul Crusher R - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Petarghh: brill... thanks.. psyched..
Petarghh - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Paul R: No worrys! Unfortunatly I have to work at a gear shop in town, I'm sensing very little custom tomorrow - if the chance arises my skis will be hauled up fairfield !

Have fun !
peas65 - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing:

The queue into the lakes is masssssive, can see it from our house. I think the windermere road is closed. Good luck to those stuck in the snow. 3/4 inches just outside kendal.
BarmyAlex118 - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: Anyone know if the bus service penrith to keswick will be running tomorrow ?
stuart58 - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to peas65: is the conconditions really that bad i was thinking brown coves crag tomorrow. Given up a weekend in scotland!
Paul Crusher R - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to EBclimbing: Ok, so a possible re assess for tomorrow, its just dumped a foot in darwen north lancs, and its looking iffy if I can get the motor out. might have to resort to the the darwen to winter hill tour... have fun peeps and be safe...

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