/ how many routes do you climb on sight with no abseil checks?
And I never covered boulders with mats.I just bottled out of the climb in the first place.Is it fair or right to add new routes to guides when people from another generation did not use top roping or boulder mats
or chalk to do the climbs?
Firstly, there's a world of difference between putting up a new route and climbing an existing one. Even George Mallory inspected routes by abseil on occasion. Secondly, provided you don't step outside the usual ethical boundaries, any method you use to get up a route is ok - as long as you're honest about how you did it afterwards. That's my opinion anyway - there are others I'm sure :)
Never, I find that it doesn't really help when I'm cacking myself up a vs
Reminds me of the description of Supercrack, Gogarth in the Ground Up guide, "the crack which follows the line of the abseil is hard to onsight".
I've never abseiled down the line of a route to check holds.
3000 routes and Not Dead Yet.
All of them, both trad and sport - mainly because
a) I can't be bothered to walk up to set up an abseil and
b) I'm not sure how much help it would be anyway, given the fact that I don't climb hard enough for it to make the slightest bit of difference!
All of them.
Is this bloke a troll? Constant weird questions...
> Is this bloke a troll? Constant weird questions...
There is something strange about his threads.
Unless you're putting up a new route, or making a significant repeat of a very hard route, why would you?
Cleaning up something filthy. I've done it on Chee Tor, and made what would have been an exciting route near my limit into something much more boring.
However, this a very altruistic gesture, and hats off to all the people who selflessly do this.
Should really get on some more VS onsights and work up. Being intimidated by o/s'ing is a major limitation.
very strange. i call troll
When you use the shunt do you have a knot tied in the rope in case it slips? Someone on the internet said they witnessed a 45 metre slip on a shunt.Fortunately non-fatal because of the knot!
This is what the guy who witnessed the 45 m fall on a shunt said:
The only thing i'd say with a Shunt is to avoid steep routes OR tie a backup knot about 6m off the deck. Many years ago i watched a guy zipper 45m down his fixed line and he only survived because of his backup knot at the 6m mark! Shunts don't 'catch' the rope when weighted sideways (ie on an overhang). Seeing this guy plummet so far right next to me was truely frighteing. There were several recorded serious accidents at KP in the 90s with people using shunts on overhangs without backup knots. Take care!
I think you'd get less troll shouts if you gave a reason why you're asking. I don't think you're a troll, just ever so slightly odd. Which isn't a bad thing necessarily.
FWIW, I think the vast majority of climbers that use this forum, will very rarely if ever check holds on ab.
Most of my trad climbing is done ground up. Likewise my sport which is mostly redpoint.
When recording new routes I don't think 'fair' comes into it. Ideas, equipment and tactics change, normal to one generation can seem contrived and artificial to the next. If your methods are a little out of step with the current trend you may find yourself a trend setter. More likely you'll see your routes repeated in the style of the era. If you're way of of step you'll generally be mocked and your routes ignored.
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