/ UKC Fit Club 305
Cheers grubes. Not my busiest week, still feeling my way with this elbow, trying to find the level just below injury level where I'm still training as hard as possible despite it.
- Redpoint something hard indoors, and do aerocap laps at the end of each roped session to boost base fitness
- Push bouldering as hard as possible. Do some campus boarding too - 1-3-5 on small rungs and 1-4-6 on medium at TCA
- Try and do some vaguely systematic ancap work at Gloucester Wall
- Proper slopy pocket hang on a wall Beastmaker; maybe mono hang too?
- Rolling average weight/body fat - ?
<STG> - pre Ceuse/S France trip in May
- Until roughly my birthday, focus on hard moves. Either boulder problems (a non-p/e Fb7 in a route-relevant style - maybe Churnet/peak lime/Dartmoor/Snowdonia?) or bouldery routes (Global Solutions, maybe Black Snake Moan if it dries up, other short and punchy local contenders, maybe something on Portland?).
- Spend bulk of March/April working on power endurance redpoints (maybe incl bouldering Ames Low at p/e 7A+) plus onsighting (Portland maybe?) to get head in gear for trip
- Maybe get some pumpy E2/3 trad in if opportunity presents?
<MTG> - 2013
- Complete the 8a pyramid (currently completed 6/8 x 7b+, 3/4 x 7c, 1/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
- Right Hand Man
- 7c/+ "holiday tick" (UK route away from home and/or foreign route)
- Some trad - 10x E3s, try some E4s?
- Onsight mainly on or as prep for trips (see priority below for reasoning) - more 7a+s, try to onsight/flash 7b
- Get in best shape possible for 2014 road trip - mainly this means going out as strong as possible since strength will inevitably fade over the trip
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations (eg Dreadnought, Big Groove, Dream/Liberator, Lubyanka, short-ish alpine rock of that sort of grade)
- E4 onsight
- 8a before 30
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags (currently done 7a+ at: Rodellar, Geyikbayiri)
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoints
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
T: Fingerboard. Good progress on the half crimps, up to very nearly 3x10secs@+10.5kg n the little rails. Started on some pocket stuff but elbow was getting sore so stopped.
W: Eccentrics for elbow, stretching, antagonist weights
T: Warehouse, Gloucester. What a shambles! Arrived, went upstairs to boulder. Felt unfit on the aerocap laps, but did probably a 75 move and a 100 move lap. Board was quite busy so couldn't really get onto working myself an ancap lap out, need to go back when it's quieter. Felt weak on the fingerboard. Then went downstairs to do some roped stuff. Tried the leading ladder 7b, which is actually 7a/+, fell off when my foot slipped. Then got on the leading ladder 7c and had my foot pop off on a toe-down hold, proper full on whack of my toe right onto the holds below. Agony! Tried a bit more then came down, rested it a bit, had one more go, still painful, sacked it. Did all but one of the moves, the last move, which is an off balance pop for a jug off shit hands and feet, shouldn't be too hard but low percentage. Clips will be tough though, and tenuous. maybe get back on it on a better session and see how it goes. Went home after that as it hurt!
S: TCA, Bristol. Totally different session to the last one! Warming up I was flashing a whole bunch of the greens, which are their second hardest "mortal circuit" (they have 5 normal circuits plus a beginners and a hard projects one) or doing them pretty fast, second go or whatever. So decided to man up and get on some reds (6B+ - 7B+, nice narrow grade range!). Fell off lots of them but tried hard, and managed to flash one and tick another one, which I was pleased with. Messed about on the fingerboard and campus board at the end - 1-3-5 on one arm 1-3-5.5 on the other, feet off the ground for milliseconds on the slopy pockets, could get the distance for 1-3-5 on the smaller rungs but not the contact strength to hold them.
S: Have done some stretching, some weights and some eccentrics. Feeling a bit achey so unsure as to whether I'll hit the fingerboard too - will report back if I do. Supposed to be at the wall tomorrow so rest could be good but then that would leave me on only 3 climbing related sessions this week, one of which was basically crap.
Feeling my way through with the elbow. Pleased with the fingerboard and the TCA session, less so the Warehouse one. Nigglings from elbow have meant I've done more systematic weights, stretching and eccentrics than I've done in years, so maybe a silver lining to that cloud. Supposedly a ride session tomorrow, a boulder session hopefully later in the week, then either a roped or fingerboard session perhaps too. Maybe winter next weekend if it stays cold, otherwise probably more indoor stuff - cant be arsed with going to Brean in this weather, although some churned etc bouldering could be fun I suppose.
Oh and I nearly forgot, managed a short mono hang on the really good deep (nearly but not quite to the second joint from the tip, which meant it was actually quite painful) monos on one of the TCA wooden fingerboards they make. Not the kind of mono I was thinking when I set the goal though so don't count it as a tick, but a step along the way perhaps...
STG (this winter through to March): tick at least 10 new Ft 7s, including at least one Ft 7b, before Font [so far: 4 Ft 7a, 1 Ft 7a+]
MTG: tick at least 5 Ft 7as in Font in March
LTG (March-Dec 2013):
- tick F7c in Ceuse (may have to cancel trip though, so uncertain)
- aim to onsight 10 E3s and 1 E4 in 2013. I've also updated my wishlist to reflect some of the routes I want to do if I get the opportunity.
Weekly training plan up to March involves:
- 2 wall sessions, focusing on bouldering with occasional ancap
- 3 fingerboard sessions
- 1 outside day
- 1 rest day
(minus a wall or fingerboard session when I manage two outside days)
M: Fingerboard session. Really good, spent a decent amount of time on it and got a lot done. Focussing mostly on pockets. Hung the smallest (flat) 2 finger pockets for several sets of 8 seconds on middle two, not done that before for that length/no. sets.
W: Bouldering at Depot. Good session - did about 10-15 of their Yellow (V4-7 problems, and a similar number of the reds (V3-5). Felt strong.
T: Nothing. Was supposed to go to the wall after work but end up in the office until after 7, then couldnt summon the motivation for a fingerboard session.
F: Nothing (might have done a few chin-ups in the morning, cant remember)
S: Bouldering at Ina's Rock, Churnet. Too cold and we spent ages filling in a big hole that had mysteriously opened up below the problem we wanted to do; was knackered after that. Did one unrecorded problem, 6b+ish, and worked on the crux of Thumbelina (highball Ft7a). Want to go back to it when its a bit warmer, my feet aren't wet and I have a bit more psyche. Afterwards, went to Stoke bouldering to get a proper session in. Felt tired but managed 5-10 of the V6-8s (greens and oranges - some were definitely a bit soft for V6 though) and 5-10 of the V4-5s (blacks / whites). Felt very beasted by the end.
S: Nothing, was going to get out but just demoralised by the weather. Did about 30 chin-ups.
Mixed week really. Started off well with a good fingerboard session, planned rest day and a really good session at the Depot. Was really psyched for a two-climbing-day weekend (my wife is away this weekend). Then Thursday I was just too shattered to do anything, and the weather has since buggered up outside plans - and Ive been eating a lot in the house as a result. Hopefully things will improve again...
Oh, I'm afraid I'm definitely going to have to canel the Ceuse trip by the way.
We are going to see Ruth's Dad in May now at a time that means I need to use more of my holiday allowance (as opposed to the original plan of Easter when a I get 3 free days) and I don't think I'll have enough holiday left.
That's a shame... Maybe do a trip later in the year then?
Sounds like you're going strong right now...
Thumbelina is a classy classy boulder. Crapped my pants mantling onto the sandy ledge. Especially in the knowledge that there was only two skinny old pads below...
We had 9! :) Didnt get past the crux anyway but will do next time im sure. Can you remember your sequence to reach the pocket - seems like theres a few options?
Yep the bouldering is going well at the moment, really enjoyed some highballing last week too. Do you fancy coming up for a grit day in the next few weeks?
Really high heel out right. Felt impossible first go. Jumped off after putting the heel on second go as I shat my pants. Put my blinkers on third go and found myself at the top. Putting a harness on - on the ledge was scary!
Still, ive lost about 5 pounds since the middle of december. Only another 10 or so until I feel comfortable in my own skin again. So shallow...!
Monday: 12 miles bike.
Tuesday: Attempted to ride to work and failed. I.e. nothing.
Wednesday: 5.5 mile run.
Thursday: 28 miles bike.
Friday: 28 miles bike.
Saturday and sunday: Nothing.
Next week should see more miles and i'll honestly try to do some core work in the evenings.
Yeah, that could be good fun. Preferably something that's relevant training as well as a laugh (ie pulling hard rather than holdless slabs or balancey weirdness ;) but yeah, be nice to come have a play...
We were just trying a right hand deadpoint to.the pocket with a high left foot, think it would go.but might try the heel.method as well next time.
Another guy said he went to the pocket with his left then matched it.
I can't remember matching. Although that pocket you go to is very good! I remember having to put my left toe on a higher smear (about a foot above the good ledge) to get the heel in the right place - this makes it go from feeling nails to not too taxing.
Also, makes sure you've done some stretches before you try it - It's all about flexibility!! :-)
Jan-mid Feb - Continue with current indoor volume and try and get at least two weekends (or days of weekends) in sport climbing. Tick a couple of 7as, or one 7a and a 6c onsight/flash. Run at least twice a week for up to an hour. NOT ON TRACK DUE TO WEATHER
mid Feb - beg March - have a super fab time in NZ :o)
March-May - Focus on building up running fitness and navigation skills for orienteering - run at least twice a week, with one of these being over an hour. Climbing wise, work on onsighting ability in 6s and getting back into the feel of trad with 1 or 2 weekends away.
June - September - Focus on trad climbing, getting out at weekends and building up to onsight E2. Maintain strength by bouldering indoors during week. Maintain running fitness and work on navigation if possible.
September/October-end year - Focus on onsighting and quick redpoints in Kalymnos, possibly try and get a 7b project ticked. Try and get a 7a flash and some 6c onsights. Do DNA. For remainder of year get back up to strength and focus on repointing. If I can get Something Stupid and Empire done that would be a bonus.
Bit of a wash out week with work and weather:
M - nothing (worked late)
T - nothing (worked late again)
W - Biscuit Factory - ending up hitting more holds than pulling on them :-S Got up a few greens (v3-5) but not really feeling it. Ended with some leg lifts and a lot of bruises!
T - nothing - was hoping to run in but couldn't work out logistics (i.e. needing warm coats etc at work!)
F - nothing - thought about running lunch but would have been a bit lethal in the snow
S - Biscuit Factory - masterclass session with Alex Puccio which was good - some good footwork tips and actually started to get the hand of dynos... she also showed me what I'd been doing wrong on one of the problems I tried on Wed and managed to get it eventually. Played around for a bit after but heart wasn't so much in it and was freezing cold - stopped for a bit of a break and couldn't get going again.
S - run - 55 mins - took it fairly easy and wrapped up warm as its a blizzard here! Pleased I got out in it though.
This weekend was originally down as a climbing weekend but weather and work put pay to that, hence I now once have one free weekend before new zealand to get out climbing,...keeping my fingers crossed for better weather!
Goal: 7c by April 2013. Going to name some routes in the hope that one of them gets dry soon: Tremelo @ Malham or Metal Guru/Biological Need @ Kilnsey.
Mon: Routes indoors. more failed attempts at 7c but failed after the lip so progress has been made.
Wed: routes indoors. Got the 7c first redpoint and ticked off the other routes on the mammut wall just so I could arbitrarily say "I've climbed EVERY route on this wall". Pleased that went down as it felt properly hard and I've seen lots of strong climbers struggle with it (who clearly have better things to do than try the same route 30 times indoors).
Sun: Indoor routes - coaching session with Nik. He's going to write up the session but the gist was our indoor sessions are correct, just need to add in some stamina stuff at the end as we're pretty much solely focused on power endurance with the routes we're doing. For now I'm happy with the returns I'm getting from those sessions so I'll not add anything else in for now (apart from the stamina stuff). When we hit a plateau then it's time to shake things up (he said) but for now we're still improving.
Long term plan is to get my first 7c and do at least another two before looking at anything harder. Apart from probably 1 trip to spain I'm relying on the weather being dry enough in the UK to get on rock regularly for those 7c's.
Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
1 - Lose 1/2 stone (no weight loss this week)
2 - Improve finger strength (no progress)
3 - Improve footwork (went climbing)
STG - Climb 6b @ wall, 12st 8lbs
MTG - Climb 6c @ wall, 12st 6lbs
LTG - Climb 7a & E1, 12st 4lbs
VLTG - Climb 8a & E5, maintain weight - 11st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st 9lbs (no change)
M - Rest
T - 45 mins, 8*800m 'effort' running
W - indoor session @ boulders
T - Rest
F - 40 mins insanity
S - 30mins insanity session
S - Rest
Got on a 6a+ at Boulders. Just squeaked a 6a. Otherwise just covered a lot of easy ground, running quite a few laps on various routes. Did 3 laps on a 5+ and failed on the 4th. Climbed with one of the better climbers in the club, he's just breaking into the 7s. Which is always nice to do. Club run on Tuesday was good fun. Hard tho. Been doing a bit more ITB stretching this week, so hopefully that'll be ok. Lots of snow here. Feel like I should have gotten out, but it's not been cold enough and nothings in. Tried to convince the missus that a winter hillwalk would be nice, but she wasn't keen. Done a few more insanity sessions. Good week I guess. Slobbed around all weekend, so not feeling like I've done anything worthwhile. Apart from completing Killzone 2 and getting a copy of Borderlands 2 that is... However if I keep up the levels of running and climbing, I'll be happy. Hopefully next week will see me loosing a few lbs also.
Been a better volume week for me as in number of sessions/routes.
I also have started to formulate plans for the year ahead climbing trip wise. Which is always exciting, especially as I have new kit from the excel show to ding and dent when I get outside.
Milton Keynes routes - they still put boulder problems at the end of routes, Gaz Parry seems to be fond of setting like this. Really frustrates me!!! probably because I am not a strong boulderer, which just highlights my weakness in this area. So I guess boulder more is the answer....
Tues: Milton Keynes. Warm up, then onsight/flash attempts of: 2x7a (OS), 7a+ Black(fell fondling the final jug), 7b purple (OS), 7b+ orange (fell on boulder problem below chains), 7c White (Half way then bolt to bolt - would go with a little work) & 8a Purple (In sections, need to refine sequence)
So in all, tied on, tried, got a fair number of routes in. Good session.
Fri: Indoors local. Just pottered around on 6's for a couple of hours while my fingers got cold.
Sunday: Milton Keynes again. OS a bunch of 6c's, tried 7b+ White (clean to penultimate bolt - boulder problem finish) and the 8a again (didn't really try too hard and bailed at mid height)
Also bouldering mostly v2-v5.
So this coming week:
Try to climb twice indoors, maybe fit in a bouldering session too.
Get plans for outdoor trips under way in earnest.
Most sessions this week suffered due to the weather and exams. It takes about an hour to warm up. I lacked the motivation to run.
M-2 laps on 7a+ circuit. Then played on Woodie, which was fun. I can see myself getting back into woodie training. Wide Arm Press ups.
T-One arm negatives, slow weighted Frenchies. Good sesh
W-7b OS at the Tower, Leicester. My best performance at this centre, and very encouraging as I climbed badly, but had enough in the tank for the whole thing. Endurance training works (y)
T-Attempted hill sprints but got lazy after 3 x 240m
F-Hard circuits, AnCap (now I know what these terms mean!) Burnt out with repeaters
S-One arm negative, slow weighted Frenchies. Diamond Press ups. Great sesh
S-Rest, but lots of walking places in the snow.
So a tired miserable week, but still managed to pull things out the bag!
Now I'm 4.5kg lighter than I was 6 weeks ago, I'm excited to work my one arm strength. Yesterday I managed a solid rep from 45deg.
-Train hard (one arm strength, low reps)
-Train hard at repeaters and hard circuits
-Eat lots of protein, low carb (maintain 10st, reach 10% fat)
Cool, let me know when you're around and I'll make sure I'm free.
Evening all :)
Had everything thrown at me this week inc working evenings, being off sick again and dealing with some shit news so pleased I managed to redeem it at the weekend at least. Fit club is rubbing off on me.
M-F - nada
S - lovely run in the snow.
S - indoor bouldering on my tod. Plan to pop in more often to do shorter sessions on top of normal sociable evenings. Warmed up properly, worked on overhangs and circuit board. Got a couple of biig reachy moves that I usually baulk at which proves my reach is further than I thought if I only (wo)man up and go for it, which is pleasing.
M: Static Bike 7.5 km
W: Foundry: Most of the level 1 problems
T: Static Bike 7.5 km
S: Matrix: Good session, 2 6b's
S: Foundry: whittling at some level 2 problems
STG: V4 ish boudlering e.g. Walnut Traverse at Birchen -WORKING / Crucifix traverse at Almscliff
2 problems I couldn't quite do last winter, so good benchmarks
MTG: RP 6c in Turkey Feb 5th onwards / French 7a boulder traverse equivalent at churnet
LTG: 7a Sport RP
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (304) thread:
AJM - Now time to put the effort in for your ceuse trip
Jimmykay - nice one on the font trip. I may be there then not sure as yet
IainRUK - Wow that's good mileage. Have you got any races coming up?
DanielHeath - Nice PE session got any routes in mind?
Grubes - Oi fatty keep working
MattRM - Well done on the insanity. I looks fun and brutal
NMN - It sucks when work gets like that hope you had a better week.
deacondeacon - wow nice trad sessions. Not a bit nippy?
Si DH - Well done on Glass Hour and NTBTA too of my goals such amazing lines. Oh and the other classic ticks. What a great day
Sankey - nice one getting out on sunday what an amazing day
Ali - looks like a busy week good effort
AllyBee - manage to get to the wall this week? Any braver yet? ;)
Ian Bell - How did the ski ing go?
Exile - Good question looks like you get some good knowledge out of it too. have you put it into practise yet?
Eagle River - how was the coaching? Got any projects in mind for this year?
Nomicsforsale - hows the finger?
Ally Smith - well done on the V8's
Annak - Well done on the trad Always good to get the first tick of the year in
Mrchewy - When you are trying something out of your comfort zone you don't always get much done. However its good for the future. Don't worry about a bad session here or there it happens.
Maria85 - hows the toe?
oddtoast - well done on the route session and sounds like a good run
kevster - beer is good ... er I mean bad .. lots of calories .. :) you earned it with a successful trip
Jammingdodger - don't worry about a couple of bad sessions it takes time to get back into climbing
seankenny - good plan working a weakness. remember no matter the angle its all in the footwork.
Luke Owens - Welcome! Nice set of goals.
Pork Pie Girl - another busy week good effort keep it up
So it looks like the peak was full of fit clubbers last sunday. What a great day and well done all lots of effort going in at the start of the year hope it pays off to your years goals
Mad busy work week, 70/80hrs and a couple of 16hr days. So wasn't expecting anything really.
Mon - Nowt
Tue - Nowt
Wed - Tabata squats. Lunges. Press-ups blah blah. Mullered legs at the end.
Thu - 16hr day in Paris. Ran a few miles back and forward to the van Chuffed I made the effort. Free exercise timewise.
Fri - Some core and arm work.
Sat - 45 min of arm work at the wall on the rings and Fbs. Getting a little stronger.
Sun - 90 min boulder session at lunchtime.
Really happy to have got any climbing in this week. Just kept plugging away for the whole time with not much chatting.
So tried the start of a V5 on the slab. NAILS. But I tried. Got on lots of crimpy stuff, was rubbish as expected, the variety will help. Did the one move that's beating me on the roof V2, should have that next time. Tried a roof V4. NAILS. Still gotta do some of the V1s, one seems silly hard.
Took everybody's advice from last week and had a decent session today, the fingers are raw, arms were pumped and even the legs ache. Had DOMS pretty much all week.
Thanks for encouragement last week when I was feeling a bit flat - it really helped and I reckon I'd have done nothing this week without it.
STG-back up to Font 7A's on grit (by end of january) (DONE)
MTG-few routes on my wishlist, long johns slab, archangel, the rasp. (by end of april)
LTG- consolidate E4, at least 10 (by the end of 2013)
Mon-routes up to f6c at the edge
Wed-Got excited about the weather so went for a 6 hour walk in the snow. Edale- kinder downfall-Edale. Really quiet up there and a lovely day but it's not doing much for my climbing.
Fri-Went swimming for an hour. I'm really crap but learnt bi-lateral breathing (badly)
Sat-3 hour walk in the snow on the moors behind Langsett Reservoir.
Sun-2.5 hours bouldering at the works. It was really busy (I hate it when it's busy) which made the session pretty unstructured as I was just trying to get on anything that was free.
Fairly poor week but I didn't have a car this week and I couldn't bare to risk heading out on the bus only to find everything soaking or covered in snow. :(
Also if anyone has any tips for me regarding indoor routes I'd really appreciate it. I can boulder up to font7B and trad climb up to E3/E4 but struggle up a f6c.
Pretty keen for some snow/highballing this week though If conditions allow. If anyone fancies it give me a shout.
grubes: wow nice trad sessions. Not a bit nippy?
I'm not one to sit around freezing at the crag, I'd rather just go bouldering but it was very mild. No wind at all, and climbing with competent partners which helps as you end up both getting up and down the routes in 10 minutes with no faffing around.
STG (Mar 2013):
Possible short half term font trip
More than 1 7 in spain maybe a grade push
MTG (July 2013)
Climb harder than 7a in UK and abroad.
Lead E3 try onsight
LTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Great wall at squamish
This Weeks Goals:
Another long Rokt session tick
get out on rock - Fail
W: Rokt. 4 hours
Warmed up 15 mins
Bouldered easyish 1 hour
core session and training room 1 hour
Pottered about 45 min
Lead wall 45 mins.
Lead the yellow 6a and brushed the wod 7a on the way down.
had three attempts but messed up my sequesnce. However I worked the issue the move and have the corret body position sorted in my memory. Next session
F: Rokt 4 hours.
Warmed up 15 mins
Pottered about on bouldering uninspired. 45 mins
Top roping 1.5 hours
1x4+ flash 2x5 flash 1x6a flash 1x6b flash 2x6b+/6c one flash one dogged 1x6c dogged
could not get a lead belayer
S: 2 hour walk and playing in the snow ... http://www.vimeo.com/57749178 followed by mates birthday drinks crawled in at 3.30am
S: still drunk when I woke up
Depot 3hours afternoon
Got spanked on a on the blue and purple circuits hard sets. Hanging badly climbing like shit
Going to have a core session before bed.
Next Weeks goals:
Northumberland next weekend gonna try get my first 7 ...
A pretty busy week.
When I have been climbing I have started to have this phrase in my head fall off don't drop off. unfortunately this means people are not as keen to belay me for some reason.
Please can some one start the thread next week and I will post stats when I get back.
m: 15 mile road run @ 6:45 pace
t: am: 9.5 mile fell run glen clova. pm: 5.3 mile road run
w: 6.5 mile fell run up Moel Eilio
t; am: 3.5 mile road run. pm: 11 mile recce of HPM route
f: 19 mile road run in the blizzard.
s: 8.5 mile fell run laps on win hill.
s: 13 miles (9 miles in the am. 5.5 stanbury splash fell race. 20th. pm: 4.5 mile steady road run)
Thanks grubes - haven't put it into action yet as still on power, although work and winter got in the way a little this week!
Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Winter VI 6
Goals for this Spring:
RP - 7a+ / 7b
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.
M: 1hr road run. 20min core
T: 1hr road run. 1hr 40 climbing wall bouldering for power
T: 50min road run, 20 min core
F: 1hr 45min climbing wall bouldering for power
S: 20min core
S: 9hrs out winter climbing - Plaque route, IV 4*
A good week really, just not quite enough bouldering. Great day winter climbing - not got me any closer to VI 7 but a grand day out introducing a good friend to the mixed pleasures of mixed climbing.
Fingers crossed for you Iain with regards to the GB team - to quote your advice... run, run, run.
s-cardio and core in gym, routes at wall. 6a+ to 7a+, led about 8 routes, dogged the routes above 6c+ (thinking about falling too much rather then just getting on with it)the top roped (laps ) for 3 routes
m- cardio and weights and core
t- cardio and core , 2 hours bouldering at wall, warm up, 45 mins on the v7 i'm working, rest of time on easier problems to work on weaknesses.. open handed and steeper reachy stuff
w- cardio and weights and core
t- cardio, core and bouldering for a couple of hours, plateaued on the v7
f- cardio and core, couple of hours bouldering at wall, hour on the v7, managed thre more moves, only a three moves off the finish but stil need to link the moves 12 and 13 together- my heel keep slipping (it's about a 19 move problem all on steep ground.. lots of heel hooks, crimp's etc)
Mon - Maths exam, then MCC. Warmed up bouldering, lots of new problems to get me excited! Did a couple of routes then repeated a 7b+ I'd done before, and had another go on the 8a. Clean up to crux, then the usual fall, but this time when I tried it from a rest on the rope I actually stuck the move for the first time, which was great (it's about 1/3 height of the 20m wall). From doing the crux I could then push on to falling of the last move which was good, I think if I can link the bouldery bottom section into the crux then I'll have a chance to recover to top it. Finished the session doing easier routes.
Then nothing till Saturday...
Sat - Bouldering comp at Rockover. It was a hard set but I did alright, lot of strong people there this time but I think I placed fairly high, though the scores aren't up yet.
Sun - Bouldering at home with Dad. Fun session really, but not very serious. Fingers feeling sore and tired so stopped after two hours.
So not a great week but not bad considering having two A-level exams mid week! Looking forward now to topping that 8a, competing at the RockFest in a couple of weeks, then getting back on the endurance work for Spain in a month!
No, work is not going to ease until the end of the month, I don't think I'll get much at all done now.
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Wasdale - get round.
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
Push trad grade.
Lead a tough E1.
M - am: Indoor coaching session.
M - pm: 4.10m road run, 87ft.
T - 4.09m road run, 37ft.
W – am: 2.56m road run, 30ft.
W - pm: 5.00m road run, 109ft.
T – 5.05m road run, 95ft.
F – 5.25m road run, 85ft.
S - nothing.
S - nothing.
Hmm, been a while (302 was the last time). I've been away on a Winter Skills Course in Glen Coe, which was excellent, including a spot of climbing at Ice Factor. Ticked off several ice climbs (fun), followed by a couple of 6a routes, as well as almost completely on-sighting a 6a+ top rope (only 1 mistake) - so very happy!
This last week:
Monday: Speed circuit: 3x 12 reps on 10 exercises, exhausted at the end
Tuesday: 1 hour fat burning run: 5.75 miles, average HR 130.
Wednesday: Climbing at North Face, Warrington
- I thought I'd be exhausted for this, but felt quite strong:
- Lead climbing: 3x5+, 3x6a, 1x6a+, 1x6b - failed on the crux, but at least tried.
- On-sighted one boulder route at the end.
Thursday: Driving home through the snow (boring) for 4 hours.
Weight down to 79.6 kg, body fat 17.5% - dead chuffed: MTG achieved (but need to keep going).
Friday: no exercise
Saturday: Not Much: decided against a walk in the Brecon Beacons for safety reasons; so ended up having my daughter early and went sledging for an hour instead!
Sunday: Same again for almost 2 hours; packing for the long drive back to work.
So in summary: A good start to the week; I just need to keep consistency going over the parenting weekend somehow...
Is this a good place to go and push on with my trad? I'm not that interested in single pitch, so this being 2 pitch, not too far from Northampton and mostly HS to HVS - looks like a grand place for Nick and I to go cragging. Nick is pretty solid at VS on grit and keen to get on HVS, I should be solid VS but I've been lazy this year to be honest.
Want to go somewhere not Wales and not much fussed about grit. I tend to need a sense of commitment to get me climbing decently an.d from the pics I've seen, it looks a little like Tremadog in feel.
Other suggestions welcome.
I like wildcat. Peak limestone isn't always brilliant for lower grades, wildcat offers some nice climbs at vs or so.
You say not wales, Wye valley/symonds yat/ Avon is a good area for limestone trad too.
You looked at Clwyd or bottom of lakes?
Others here may help too, longer pitch grit like milestone for hvs or well protected e1.
Thanks mate. The structure of my food plan has finally changed my binging habits. I think I'm developing a negative association with being full, which is a good barrier to over-eating.
Don't want to get any lighter really now. Was 62kg this morning - scary!
Looks like you're well busy at the moment. You have a good mentality to "do something" at every opportunity.
Wildcat is a good crag at vs and hvs, and its fairly friendly for peak lime - gets the sun, mostly reasonably solid and well protected, clean, easy access etc. If you fancy some non-grit at those grades its well worth a few trips. However its not as big as perhaps you seem to think - although some routes are two pitxhes, they could all be done in one but for rope drag concerns, and it is not on the scale of tremadog. Perhaps 30m or so high. Still, it will feel 'bigger' than a grit crag. If you havent done much limestone trad before, dont worry if it feels a little intimidating first time round - holds and gear are both harder to read than other rocktypes.
Id say definitely do a trip and see how you get on.
I certainly need your focus!
Really had to find time this week and on Thursday it was run to the van and back or do nothing. Worked out the distance and I did not far off six miles, which when added to all the lugging about of the stand etc - worth the free time investment.
62kg? Beyond me!
Are cams the best idea? Or stick to nuts etc?
Had a pretty shocking week...
Last week's goals:
2x climbing wall (gentle/one footed!) - one done
Orienteering (possibly walking it) - fail
3x core and fb- one done
Bike to work x 1- fail
3x short, gentle runs- one done
M: Lunchtime run, 10 mins to try out the toe! Not too bad but I was pretty gentle.
Evening Depot - horrible session, my footwork was appaling as the toe was hurting, felt weak. Did a couple of new blues (V2-4 I think?) and one new purple (V3-5?) and that was about it. Rest of the purples felt impossible.
T: Core & fingerboard
W: Nothing. Didn't bother with orienteering as it was so icy.
T: Still nothing.
F: Also nothing.
S: Took the skis for a walk on Round Hill - couple of hours skinning/fighting heather, 4 sort-of turns. Good to be out though.
S: Took skis to Inglebrough, far too optimistic, left them in the car and walked up instead.
Pretty disappointed with myself this week. Monday's climb really got me down, and the cold weather hasn't been inspiring me to get out running/biking. Been really tired too. Glad we dragged the skis out though, and a nice walk today, though I still felt uninspired all the way up and down! Hoping this week will be better. Toe is basically healed in terms of the cut itself but because I've damaged all the nerves in it it's randomly quite painful/weird feeling, which is putting me off doing a lot.
Good 4 days skiing, came back easily despite a few years off. Bunch of all colours incl a few blacks. Did make me realise though that although I like skiing I prefer climbing more so maybe won't bother next year. Still a great trip though.
Less great is the fact I'm currently sitting at gatwick waiting to get off my delayed flight!
Assuming the swiss limestone was stereotypical grey continental limestone slabs with water worn runnels and little spiky gouttes d'eau pockets, it will have very few similarities with Wildcat ;)
I get through lots of nuts on limestone but I still carry the cams too.
Always 2 sets of nuts, plus a few medium size cams. Be prepared to drop a grade on your first trip and dont worry if it feels hard - once you get used to the rock it will be ok.
Im currently usinv an app called diet watchers diary which is a really easy way to record food you eat and the associated weightw*t hers points, which is a good indication of calorie content. Worth checking out if you have an android phone, only £1.50 one off fee. Im found doing weightw*tchers through it quite useful, have managed to get back to about 11st3 now, half way back to my 11st target from peak in december (I should probably have noted this above.)
Thanks grubes. Fingers ok ta, no better but also no worse :-)
STG: RP 7b at a wall, V6 at BBUK
MTG: RP 7b in Spain in March or Feb.
LTG: E1s in Summer, look at E2.
Mon: Harrogate wall bouldering. Not sure of grades but ticked all but one of the blues and around half of the greens.
Tues: BBUK. Totallly crap session. Embarrassingly bad.
Sat: Westview routes. Tried the 7a+ from last week on lead twice but was put off by the clipping positions. I'd have to go past the bolts in two places to successfully RP the route, the lower of the two would have possibly meant decking out if I fell, unless my belayer was paying attention. Wasn't 100% confident in my belayer so decided not to go for the RP. TRed a 7a three times instead. Disappointing session.
Sun: 15 mile trail run, St Sunday, Fairfield, Dollywagon, Helvellyn and Lower Man. 1,530m ascent. Windy. Awesome.
Crap week for climbing, failed everything. Monday's session was ok though. Trying to put the week behind me now so I can try hard again this week.
Still not getting on any 7bs or V6s.
I've just booked a cheeky week in Catlunya from 18 to 25 Feb. Same area as Nik's coaching holiday in March. Might make an early start on a 7b :-)
Wimped out of a Bowland runners night trail run on thursday. Am thinking I might not be a club type of a person.
What Nik said makes sense, it's working so far so carry on till you plateau. You're making fantastic progress, as you say with relatively little time commitment. Guess you now have to wait for some new routes to go up. Leading ladder must be going up soon though?
I really admire your dedication on the V7. I'm sure you'll get it soon. I ought to do the same on a V6.
And well done for having a rest day!!
cheers for the praise re the rest day... i slept for most of the day.. can't remember the last time i did that.. completely pooped
the v7's coming down in a week and a half... i'm not being negative but i don't expect to get it done...it'll have been up for three and a half weeks .. not enough time for me .. i'd need about 6 weeks on it (off and on) as need to get stronger as well as learn some newish techniques (new to me)
where you bouldering?
Yep, leading ladder routes up in a couple of weeks, got 2 new 7bs and a 7b+ to get done before then. Might be at boulder uk on tues, will find out later today and let you know.
One of the new 7bs at AW could be an option for you, no big moves or strenuous clips.
More volume this week, and at a higher intensity has left my elbows playing up a little. Have "rested" for the weekend and will try again.
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham
MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT & Terredets at Easter (maybe try Fish Eye at Oliana?)
STG (end Jan 2013)
- Stick to the plan - volume and intensity cranks up now.
- Focus on an-cap for next few weeks including campus sessions - Keep up the elbow eccentrics to avoid problems
- Yoga and core sessions
- Get back below 75kg
- Hatch Life and Lou Ferrino in the Cave
M - Nowt
T - Warm-up; Campus board an-cap - starting to blister pinky on small rungs. 2x20min Aero-cap traversing.
W - Gym - elbow/ankle rehab and weights and core.
T - Warm-up; Bouldering an-cap (12moves; need to extend problems to 15moves?) Tired, so only 1x20min Aero-cap traversing.
F - Rest - trying to find winter partners with no luck.
S - More rest - got ski boots fixed
S - More "rest" - trying new mixed route with Pete. Got spanked and lowered off a pitch he later said was "solid VIII,8, and harder than Pic n' mix" which was mildly gratifying. Eventually backed off due to some patches of snow covered turf not being completely frozen.
Mixed climbing is definitely going to be the crux of trying to class myself as an "all-rounder" - http://www.allysmithblog.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/striving-to-be-all-rounder.html - crampons felt totally alien on my feet compared to rockboots!
ha ha not surprised you were pooped! I don't remember reading you having had a rest day before, that must be the first a few months??
I'm bouldering at BoulderUK in Blackburn mostly. Grades are ok there but I find I hit a ceiling at V5 and haven't ever been able to get beyond it. I've had at most maybe 3 goes on any of the V6s there which isn't really trying very hard. They generally feel so impossible that I give up after the first go. I really ought to dedicate my sessions to trying V6s but I get sucked into the V5s.
Probably worth you keeping at the V7, you never know you might surprise yourself!
Ok doke re Tuesday. And cheers for heads up on the 7b at Stockport, might check it out. And if it's new it should be up long enough for me to have it as a long term project. Joy.
STG: Redpoint 7b, Boulder V6 consistently
MTG: Redpoint 7c, Tick a V7
LTG: Redpoint 8a, Boulder V8
M - Weighted Deadhangs, worked out optimal weight for Max Hangs
T - Quick evening visit to Nesscliffe, climbed a V4, fell off the topout because it was wet!
W - Weighted Max Hangs, 20mm edge, 3 x 10 secs, 5kg, 7.5kg & 9kg - Main Set 5 x 10 secs 10kg.
T - Indoor Bouldering - 4 V5/6 problems in a session - Personal Best
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Ruthin Escarpment - "Rumble in the Jungle" Hard V4, did in a few goes.
Flashed a V5/6C - First flash of the grade, psyched!
Cheers buddy. Psyched for Font now. Booking the Gite and Ferry this week. Should be all in including petrol and food for ~250 at the moment. If anyone is keen though we do have a spare seat in one of the cars.
T-Bouldering circuits at BBC. One climb at v8 and then 40problems v4-5.
T-Bouldering Circuits again - felt weak and tired so just did circuits again.
S-Bouldering - did all the comp problems like a comp with Byron ( haven't climbed with him in ages!). Would have come 2nd in the round. Made some silly mistakes on some problems and flashed some unexpected ones. Still feeling stiff from that session - must have worked hard! Some really good problems in that comp.
Snow day today. Hurray! Might go down the wall this afternoon this week for a rare Monday night session.
Also - My Easter trip to Kalymnos is hanging in the balance with my housemate not sure whether he is going to be able to get annual leave. Would anyone else be keen. If not there then I've checked and flights to Gerona (Rodellar) are only 70quid. Worst comes to it, I'll just have to go back to Font... :)
I would say yes to both the font at half term and rodellar trip but I only have 2 days holiday I can take before april and will struggle to get easter week off.
I may be able to do a long weekend in rodellar if you get desperate.
But I think two weeks in font would be a better option for you.
I have offsets, walnuts and classics, so I'll cart them all up there and work it out I guess, quite excited to be planning a day out on rock.
Got back a few hours ago after some weather/Ryanair shenanigans and a quick visit to Gibraltar.
Quick summary of the trip. Not got a guide so can't remember place names etc at the moment.
S - Single pitch roadside up to E15b, spotted my target for the week. A bold E3 5b arete. I totally loved the look of it but just didn't feel i was up to it on my first day back on trad in 18mths.
M - Single pitch roadside up to E2 5c ( 2nd attempt )
T - Multi pitch E1 5b - Golden Compass. about 120m of amazing sustained adventure trad. 3* amazing climb.
W - Got lost ( bit of a theme of the week )so no adventurous multi pitch. Ended up with sketchy info about some single pitch sport near Tafraoute. Set off with no trad gear and encountered very grainy, crumbly granite with up to 8m between bolts. Once you dug through the rotten outer patina i got used to it and quite enjoyed it. A bit like slate bolted trad.
T - Multi pitch E1 5b that was never in a million years E1. Regularly doing 5b moves 3 or 4m above crap gear, with more crap gear 3 or 4m below that ) is not my idea of E1. I ran the first 2 pitches ( mix of off width corner crack and un protected face climbing ) into 60m of glorious fun. I was traumatised by the end of it. 250m later we were at the top. Big day out. Best days climbing - ever !
F - Single pitch up to E3 5c. Confession time - i top roped it first :0( Just hadn't had the mileage at that level to feel confident. The guide showed it with 3 bits of gear. I got 9 in on the lead ( my natural cowardice means my gear placement skills are necessarily tip top ) and should have gone for the on-sight. Never mind, i'm not too angry with myself. 3 hrs from a hospital in a country with no rescue service is probably not the place to push it out.
S - Supposed to go back and do Park Lane E3 5b but weather said no. It also said no to our flight so we had an extra night in Marrakech, which was fun.
S - Travelling to Sevilla and then Gibraltar.
M - back home, having a curry then off to bed.
Amazing week for climbing and culture. 2 of the guys on the trip hadn't done trad before. Very interesting to see people approach trad with out the 'negative' attitude we often bring to it. One guy led the E3 i did ( he is a 7a onsight sport climber ) and the other led E1 on-sight ( 6a onsight sport climber ) and tbh could have done more.
I am moving house in a month or so to an area surrounded by adventure trad.
This mountain is a 5 min drive from the house. There is also sport climbing in the village. One of the lads from the trip is super keen to carry on with his trad so at last i have a regular trad partner. He also wants to train and work similar routes with me for sport.
With that in mind i need to get stronger. I struggled on 5c moves, not good. It really showed as Gino just cracked them off like they were a 4c. He is strong but not very fit. I am the opposite and need to maintain my fitness while getting stronger.
Going to have a think about it this week and make a proper plan. With a local training partner/rival it should give me the boot i need to get going.
Not weighed myself but i am sure i have lost a bit and trimmed up. However the last 3 days have been sitting in a car/plane/airport/hotel whilst eating crap take away food.I will report the readings in the morning.
Time for a curry and then off to bed.
STGs (next couple of months):
1) Get braver:
Do at least two roped wall sessions a week, and at each one take at least five lead falls from above the bolt. Also try just letting go after clipping the anchor, instead of waiting for the rope to go tight.
2) Get stronger:
Pull-up sets twice a week on the large holds on the fingerboard. Work up to being able to do three unassisted pull ups in a row (I can currently do almost one...)
3) Get fitter:
Climbing fitness: at least two wall sessions a week (as above), and do some aerobic training on the fingerboard (20-30 mins feet-on hanging, moving hands between holds, in front of TV)
General fitness: sign up for a lunchtime exercise class at the University gym. It's right next to my building so there's no excuse!
MTG (start of spring, when the weather gets better):
Go to Portland and try to onsight as many 6a's and 6a+'s as I can...
LTG (by January 2014, when we leave for our road trip)
1) I'd like to be at a level where I can onsight 6b consistently, 6b+ with some effort and 6c on a good day when I'm trying really hard.
2) 7a redpoint
Another lazy week this week - I haven't managed to get to the roped wall and haven't got any braver. My excuse is a combination of illness, snow, birthday and van - none of it a proper excuse, I know! I'm determined to get on it next week though!
M: nothing (ill)
T: nothing (ill)
W: nothing (work)
Th: nothing (van)
F: nothing (Birthday!)
S: bouldering session at TCA
S: nothing (van)
I'd planned to avoid falling into the trap of just going bouldering and not dealing with the leading issue, but it was my birthday...
Next week will be better!
Sounds like a cool trip. I do find it refreshing to see people from different cultures do trad. English people are so pessimistic and it really holds us back!
So where are you going to be based in relation to crags I'll have heard of then biscuit?
Ha! I was going to ask the same question.
Sounds awesome! I want to go there!
STG (by summer): don’t get injured, redpoint 7a indoors, something in the V4-V6 circuit, lose ½ stone
MTG (during summer): don’t get injured, redpoint 7b outdoors (maybe a little hopeful but last summer I managed 7a outdoors after 6c indoors and a shoulder injury so if I can avoid the injuries who knows what could happen!)
Monday – circuits on the bouldering wall – about 20-30 moves then 4 6b+ routes back to back, all lead. Got stupidly pumped and fell a few times but straight back on each time.
Tuesday – antagonist/conditioning at lunchtime, fingerboard in the evening.
Wednesday – bouldering, working hard problems (for me this is the V2-V4 circuit). Bouldering is not my forte.
Friday – Walked to and from the climbing wall in the snow, about 6 miles I think. Double dips on routes. Warm-up then double dip 6b, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6c. Stupidly pumped and failing by the 6c.
Sunday – General routes session. Warmed up then tried 3 6cs, failed them all. First I came off near the top, not really warmed up enough and fighting freezing hands all the way. Second I came off the crux, I can barely do the move singly so not surprising really. Think I will leave that one until I’m a bit stronger. Third was an onsight attempt and I got confused at the roof as to where I was going and what I was clipping. I got it easily after a rest to sort that out so it should in theory go next time.
I am only 10 mins down the road from where i am living now. Just never been to these mountains before and when i looked them up they are ripe for adventure trad and have some bolted climbs there as well.
The even better news is the place we are renting used to be a B&B. We've now got 2 spare bedrooms AND it's on a back road towards Granada. Only 30k to Loja.
Dan, yes you're right about the attitude difference to trad. 5b eng tech moves are easy to a 7a sport climber and so they didn't have any hang ups about climbs at that level being 'extreme' and dangerous. They just approached it as a french 6a you wouldn't want to fall off.
Anyway weight today was 66.8kg so i've actually put weight on. Fat was 12.9% though so that is all good.
Thanks Grubes, and also big up to al Biscuit for his desert wanderings.
T: WW bouldering comp, climbing up to V3/4.
T: Attempted to visit Brunel University climbing wall, haven't been for years so hadn't passed new competency test. Frustrating, wasted trip.
F: Drive to the Peak through various blizzards.
S: I turned 40! Sledging near Cromford. Curry and wine for dinner.
S: Drove back to London. Knackered.
Not the best of weeks for me, didn't go forward but on the other hand I didn't go backwards either. I guess these things happen. Sledging was good tho.
Happy Birthday !
Had a cracking week - posting late on account of cross-country skiing in Norway :)
M: Run: 3.5miles / 29:30
Tu: Bouldering @ Biscuit Factory. Meh session, not particularly anything.
W: Run: 3.5miles / 28:03 PB!
Th: Rest day - travelling in Norway! Train journey from Bergen to Oslo, arrived at Lillehammer in the evening for four days of skiing.
F: First day on x-c skis; did 20km
Sa: Getting a bit better: 20km
Su: Woohoo! It's all coming together: 40km
M: A day off by myself, saw almost noone for hours. 25km. Short day, flew home in the evening
This week: I have a weekend in London with no on-call and no commitments: need to think of something exciting to do! Possibly get out on the bike, or go for a big walk? Hope the snow stays until then.
Adventure trad? sounds great! (barf)
As long as you're not too far away from Loja/Resident Evil at Villanueve de Cauche it's all good.
Next time you're up we'll have to get some done ;0) It seems to involve undergrading really long climbs and then littering them with loose rock and vague descriptions. Add in the fact there is no rescue service and you're miles from anywhere and you get the idea.
Loja is nearer to me now - only 30k. VdC is about 5 mins further away so no harm done.
Do they have any gearless slabs? If so am sold!
About 1000 routes of all types in the North and a new guide to the South area just about to come out.
Every style of climbing. Park lane would be good for you. E3 5b. Great looking line starts up a HVS and then you leave it onto a great arete for 15m with about 8m doing 5b moves with no gear.
may have to sort out a vist then ... oh and see this trad crag near you as well ..
I HOPE EVERYONE ELSE IS AS PSYCHED AS I AM?
Font is 3 weeks Saturday. I've just fit in my 2nd session of the week and I'm squeezing another one in tomorrow night. Literally cannot wait until Font. (Even if it means just sitting in a cafe watching the rain)
You've got no idea how excited I get in a French patisserie. I like their pastries and coffee more than the rock.
I'll try to fix it. If I haven't by about 6 then can someone else?
> I'll try to fix it. If I haven't by about 6 then can someone else?
I'll be your wingman....
But if this weather sorts itself out i may be out climbing.
We'll get it sorted between us i am sure.
I just posted up FC 306. Hope that's ok AJM and biscuit.
Elsewhere on the site
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more
The release of Peter Jackson's new film The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies on 12th December may not appear to link to... Read more
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more