/ Arch Chimney, Glyder Fach

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tetley - on 20 Jan 2013
Just wondered if anyone has done this and has an opinion on the difficult entry section into the chimney. Seemed very hard yesterday, above 6. Has it lost turf or does it require a lot of rime to go at this grade?
spindrift - on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to tetley: I did it 2/3 Winters ago. Tricky but not 6. 4 maybe 5 tops dependant on condition. Top pitch is bonanza though. Arch Gully?!
tetley - on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to spindrift:
H'mmm, it was significantly harder than the top pitch (Arch Gully's grade 6 pitch!). Something must have changed!
JamesA - on 20 Jan 2013
In reply to tetley:
I tried it today and it was absolutely nails! It's never grade 4 by any stretch, and it felt too hard for 5 to me.
tetley - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to JamesA:
It's given tech 6 in the Ground Up guide, but the 2 of us felt it was too hard for that grade at present. Did you get up it? Took several attempts and falls ....little for feet and very tenuous nubbins you couldn't actually see for the axes ...eek!
ERU - on 21 Jan 2013
Rob Johnson - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to ERU: Hi all. I climbed it today with my friend Huw and we both thought it was superb. We climbed a couple of routes at V,6 last week (Pot of Gold and Savage Slit) in the Cairngorms and felt that it rivalled both of them for quality. As for the grade, Baggys book gives it V,6 and that felt right. The top pitch is steep but the hooks and gear are great.
Simon Panton - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Rob Johnson: Rob on the conditions thread you said you had climbed Arch Gully not Arch Chimney. (obviously I realise they have the same top pitch) Which did you do?

On a related note I did the new right hand start to Arch Gully last week and it is superb.

I'd also recommend Route II on Dolmen Buttress - see the Welsh Winter climbs wiki for a full description.
Rob Johnson - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Simon Panton: Ah apologies - tired eyes! We climbed Arch Gully. Will have to check out Route II, thanks Simon.
tetley - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Simon Panton:
Well spotted Mr Panton .... the top pitch of Arch Chimney and Gully are the same, it was the 1st pitch on the chimney (graded 6) which seemed significantly harder ...perhaps with a bit of build up on the slabby wall it would have been more realistic ... it is a conditions game!
Have you done it?
The RH version of Arch Gully looks good ... I assume it goes up the gully/chimney you can see lower than, and to the left of, Arch Chimney?
JamesA - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to tetley:
No, ab'd off in the end, it was getting on and I couldn't get more than halfway up the crux. Was a bit nervous that the placements over the top of the hard moves would just be loose powder? At least the chockstone and gear is bomber though. Did you fall far?
Simon Panton - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to tetley:
> (In reply to Simon Panton)
> Well spotted Mr Panton .... the top pitch of Arch Chimney and Gully are the same, it was the 1st pitch on the chimney (graded 6) which seemed significantly harder ...perhaps with a bit of build up on the slabby wall it would have been more realistic ... it is a conditions game!
> Have you done it?
> The RH version of Arch Gully looks good ... I assume it goes up the gully/chimney you can see lower than, and to the left of, Arch Chimney?

I haven't done Arch Chimney yet (Baggy did the FA) - sounds like something might have come off it?

As for the RH start to Arch Gully - yes it is the obvious slot left of and lower down than Arch Chimney. I normally find Tim Neill's winter grades hard but that one seemed about right at a feisty V 6.


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