UKC Forums - Aladdin's Mirror Direct

Aladdin's Mirror Direct

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Alpenglow 20 Jan 2013

Anyone got any idea of the condition of the ice pitch?
Also does anyone know what approx grade the short chimney after the ice pitch is?

Cheers,
BR

DaveHK 20 Jan 2013

In reply to blackreaver:

> > Also does anyone know what approx grade the short chimney after the ice pitch is?

It's easy peasy.

OP Alpenglow 20 Jan 2013

In reply to blackreaver: Thanks.

Kevin Rutherford 20 Jan 2013

In reply to blackreaver: Saw it today. There is ice on it and it looked complete with very thin ice, would be very surprised if you get screws in. Very cold in the corrie today, give it a few days (week ) and it "might" be a goer.

OP Alpenglow 20 Jan 2013

In reply to blackreaver: Cheers all

luckyjim 20 Jan 2013

In reply to blackreaver: There were a couple of guys on it today.. good effort by them as it was blowing an absolute hoolie up there today!

terrymccall 20 Jan 2013

In reply to blackreaver: how was the conditions was thinkin about going up tommorow but forecast is off putting and i dont really know where all this unconsolidated snow is lying any comment?

terrymccall 20 Jan 2013

In reply to luckyjim: were you up in the coire today Jim?

ERU 20 Jan 2013

In reply to DaveHK:

> (In reply to blackreaver)
> [...]
>
>
> It's easy peasy.

This might be why so many people actually get hurt in it?

DaveHK 20 Jan 2013

In reply to ERU:

> (In reply to Dave Kerr)
> [...]
>
> This might be why so many people actually get hurt in it

People get hurt because terrain is easy?

mrchewy 20 Jan 2013

In reply to blackreaver: Can't say I even noticed the short chimney after the ice pitch and I would have led that bit. I wouldn't have said anything above the ice was any more than Grade I.

ccmm 20 Jan 2013

In reply to terrymccall: I was in having a look today. Lots of spindrift blowing around on a strong SE wind. Cross-loading in evidence too. Lots of teams in the fiacaill couloir area, not a lot on the N facing crags. Slab was building on the aprons all morning.

More info here: www.climbnow.co.uk/blog

ERU 20 Jan 2013

> People get hurt because terrain is easy?

It's often not the Gd IV people think. It would get a Gd V if it was further from the road, but it's not and the Scottish grading system takes into account the distance from the road & chance of rescue.

terrymccall 20 Jan 2013

In reply to Craig Mc: yeah forecast is prty rubbish got a few days off work so going to play it safe and hope the weather and avalanche forcast get a bit btr, thought the SE wind would be makling life tricky up there thanks for the heads up!

luckyjim 20 Jan 2013

In reply to blackreaver: was in the corrie today.. incredibly windy at times.. we,like most people had the sense to bail out!

Max Hunter 20 Jan 2013

I was in the Coire today. A few photos here -
http://maxhuntercouk.blogspot.co.uk/

There is a lot of unstable slab about at the moment with a possible dangerous faceted layer within. We found some small sections of even a few metres width that were of concern, to be avoided. There was great deal of redistribution of snow today. Take care.

Wee Davie 20 Jan 2013

In reply to ERU:

It's pretty steep but it's not grade V regardless of how close it is (or not) to the road.

Robert Durran 20 Jan 2013

In reply to ERU:

> The Scottish grading system takes into account the distance from the road & chance of rescue.

Really?!

chiz 20 Jan 2013

In reply to Wee Davie: It felt IV,5 the other week in lean, steep and melting condition, but not V.

terrymccall 21 Jan 2013

In reply to Max Hunter: thanks Max good to get a look at the apron with the pics changed plans and playing it safe much appriciated!

ERU 21 Jan 2013

In reply to chiz:

> (In reply to Wee Davie) It felt IV,5 the other week in lean, steep and melting condition, but not V.

I'd agree with that.

JFraser123 21 Jan 2013

In reply to blackreaver:
We were the group on it yesterday, in good condition, placed 3 screws fine and it has had hardly any traffic. IV, 4.

Kevin Rutherford 21 Jan 2013

In reply to JFraser123: Its not had any traffic because its not been in nick after falling down a couple of weekends ago.Its still reforming and lean/thin compared to what we d call normal conditions, maybe a Water Ice grade WI3/4 would be more appropriate just now?

estivoautumnal 21 Jan 2013

In reply to ERU:

It certainly isn't a grade V. I solo'd it some years ago and I have never solo'd grade V. IV on a bad day, III on a good. Anything else and it just isn't in condition.