/ British Ascent of Cerro Torre.

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TRip - on 21 Jan 2013
I don't think this has been posted yet. On Jan 12 Stu McAlesse, Dave Turnbull and Dan Donovan climbed Cerro Torre by the Ragini Route on the West Face.

Although a couple of British parties might have clinbed Cerro Torre by the, now defunct, Compressor Route, I'm fairly certain this is the first British ascent by fair means.

Good work guys, a totally awesome effort.

Tom
andi turner - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Tom Ripley:

Amazing effort. I know just how much training Stu put into doing this ;o)

Just sen some pics from the summit. They look pretty beat-up but happy. Looks totally incredible. Fantastic.
Mr Lopez - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Tom Ripley:

I'm under the impression some other Brits climbed it on Christmas day or thereabouts, along with 28 other people...

http://desnivel.com/index.php/services/popUpGaleria?id=26428&idContent=18712&content_class=P...
Captain Gear - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Mr Lopez:

I know a Brit who was on Cerro Torre on xmas day, but spent the day at Elmo throwing up and didn't summit. Don't think any other Brits summited, could be wrong though.
jon on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Mr Lopez:

Shit! Like a quiet day on Tacul! But steeper. Seems these inaccessible summits are just mobbed nowadays. I just don't go out in the Alps in the summer any more. But this is... amazing and just a bit depressing.
Mr Lopez - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Captain Gear:

My bad. Just had a fast google and turns out you are right, the rest of the party were not Brits.
Gael Force - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Mr Lopez: Looks like the Northern Corries!
Mr Lopez - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to jon:

It is Jon. Before there was the compressor for people who just wanted to summit, and the Ragni for those who wanted to do it "in style". Now with the "consecration of the impossible(c)" everyone is pitching for the same route in the same weather windows in a fashion comparable to the opening day of the sales at Primark...

So much for having 'purified' Torre and returning the dignity to it.
3 Names - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Mr Lopez:

Or maybe conclusive proof that chopping bolts, makes climbs more popular :-)
a lakeland climber on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Mr Lopez:

If they are good enough then why not?

I suspect the SE ridge will settle down to a reasonable grade once a line that doesn't follow the old bolt holes on the headwall becomes established. Though I believe the hardest free part is lower down and takes a different line to one of the still existing bolt ladders.

ALC
Captain Gear - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Mr Lopez:
> (In reply to jon)
>
> It is Jon. Before there was the compressor for people who just wanted to summit, and the Ragni for those who wanted to do it "in style".

There is a little bit more to it than that. The new guide book, online resources like Pataclimb, accurate weather forecasts and being able to hang out in El Chalten instead of a tent have all contributed to demystifying the mountain. Plus I think this year conditions are easier than normal and the weather is much more mellow than it used to be.

I hope it is this good this November December.

Robert Durran - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to Mr Lopez)
>
> But this is... amazing and just a bit depressing.

Oh well, I'm sure there are still plenty of really gnarly things to do in Patagonia away from the crowds for people with big enough balls who don't want to hook in situ pick placements....

Captain Gear - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:
> (In reply to jon)
> [...]
>
> Oh well, I'm sure there are still plenty of really gnarly things to do in Patagonia away from the crowds for people with big enough balls who don't want to hook in situ pick placements....

Like this for example, the new Ragini...

http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/torregroup/egger/Sface.html

Ian Parsons - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Tom Ripley:

Does anyone recall what Leigh McGinley and Mick Pointon did some years ago? I think they climbed the West Face, but maybe didn't quite summit.
Robert Durran - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Captain Gear:
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
> Like this for example, the new Ragini...
>
> http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/torregroup/egger/Sface.html

Yes, I imagine it will take a while for queues to form on that one!

Captain Gear - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Ian Parsons:

I think they tried to climb the Compressor Route (SE Ridge) into the West Face.

I think this was the original line up Cerro Torre enivsaged by Boysen, Haston, Burke and Crew in the late sixties.

The routes was eventually climbed by Norweigans: http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/torregroup/torre/SEridge.html#corkscrew
a lakeland climber on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Ian Parsons:

They did the Ragni route or a close variation thereof to about a pitch, maybe two, from the summit. I think the summit mushrooms were very fluffy and scary rather than quality ice.

ALC
Garbh Coire - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Tom Ripley: Paul Moores (UK) and Max Berger (Austrian) climbed the SE Ridge (with variant at the top) in November 1995, followed closely by Adrian Burgess (with Mark Wilford). The first British ascents of Cerro Torre (if not by 'fair means..').
Will_he_fall - on 21 Jan 2013
I believe that Fitzroy had a British ascent via the super canaleta, very good effort from a strong young dirtbag climber.
Captain Gear - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Will_he_fall:
> I believe that Fitzroy had a British ascent via the super canaleta, very good effort from a strong young dirtbag climber and prolific womanizer.

Indeed. Fixed that for you... ;-)
Fergal - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Mr Lopez:

National pride aside this guy impresses, two ascents by the Ragni this season, with an ascent of El Arca on the torre traverse, plus Los Tiempos perdidos (Andy Parkins line to Elmo) to the summit via ragni, has anyone summited cerro torre more than Colin Haley.
Ian Parsons - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to a lakeland climber:

Thanks - that's the one. Just found a reference in AAJ 2000; Charlie Fowler and Jimmy Surette did the same thing shortly before them.

(In reply to Captain Gear) Yes - I think they went back for that the following season, but switched to trying something on Torre Egger instead. As an aside, it's interesting to try to work out how far up the Salvaterra variation Haston and Boysen actually got on their attempt; their account relates that Haston did some hard nailing and hooking, and Boysen then led a hard and bold arete (in big boots, presumably!), before they retreated in the face of more unprotected climbing with no bolt kit. It appears probable that four of the subsequently-placed bolts where on ground that they had already climbed, and that their high-point was only one (now) bolt-protected free pitch from easier ground. Pretty good for 1968!

(All from the dizzy authority of an armchair...)
Ian Parsons - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Ian Parsons:

"...were on ground...", obviously.
Michael Ryan - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Captain Gear:
> (In reply to Mr Lopez)
> [...]
>
> The new guide book.....

and what a fantastic guidebook, saw dave's copy before he went.

Great effort Rolo

Here it is


In stock at Cordee

http://www.cordee.co.uk/Patagonia-Vertical%3A-Chalten-Massif-det-0-0-0-9892.html?search=PATAGONIA+VE...
http://pataclimb.com/guidebook/guidebook.html
ads.ukclimbing.com
Michael Ryan - on 21 Jan 2013

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