/ Climbing in Sweden?

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
David Ponting on 22 Jan 2013
I may be moving to Sweden for a fixed-term contract at some point soon; does anyone have any experience of climbing (rock/ice/any sort that isn't plastic) there? Particularly thinking of the west coast (i.e. the bit facing Denmark; or by extension the bit of Norway where it meets Sweden)
HeMa on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to David Ponting:

Nothing there... Kjugekull is defo not suitable for bouldering, nor is Bohuslan suitable for roped climbing...

And nothing around Oslo region, absolutely nothing.

Best to start living with the idea of plastic pullin'.
David Ponting on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to HeMa: I see that Bohuslan is there and has a lot of crags, though they aren't fully described in the UKC logbooks, but I was more asking for subjective things such as how popular is it, how easy to find a partner, are there any unusual things I need to be aware of, to which UK region does it best compare...?
Adam Lincoln - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to HeMa:
> (In reply to David Ponting)
>
Kjugekull is defo not suitable for bouldering

Are you on crack? Its really good bouldering!
Fiend - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to David Ponting:

Bohuslan is brilliant. Lovely rural place, very amenable, great rock and so many good lines.

> how popular is it, how easy to find a partner,

Pretty popular, only an hour from Gothenburg and a couple of hours from Oslo. There are two main climbers' campsites both with huts in and it should be okay finding partners. Alternatively email me your dates and I might come out for a few days :)

> are there any unusual things I need to be aware of,

Not really, the climbing is very normal and accessible. However: The old guide was out of print and I'm not sure if the new one is out. And Swedish prices are expensive as they are rumoured to be. Oh, also, if your profile is up to date, routes below VS are a bit sparser than those above it.

> to which UK region does it best compare...?

Crikey tough question. The accessibility of the Peaks + the vibe of Perthshire with a hint of Wester Ross + climbing from the best of West Penwith but with shorter routes and stronger lines??

http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/sweden-country.html
http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/sweden-ticklist.html
http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/sweden-photos.html
Jonas Wiklund - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to David Ponting:
There is some info about Bohuslan here:
http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Bohuslän
and Gothenburg here:
http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Göteborg

This blog has beta for 148 problems in Kjuge
http://kjugebeta.blogspot.com
In reply to David Ponting:
> are there any unusual things I need to be aware of?

Ticks. Lots of the horrible little buggers there. And some of the masses of jellyfish in the sea sting.

http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.fi/2011/06/bohuslan-climbing-trip-report.html

This was the best rock route I did this year: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=201603

hfac - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to David Ponting: Gothenburg itself has a pretty decent amount of bouldering, most of the bouldering areas could be reached via public transport + walking.
I was there a year and a half ago and am pretty sure there's a climbing wall in the city that does mat rental.

Not so climbing related, Gothenburg is also a pretty hip place to live in! It's a very vibrant city!
HeMa on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
>>
>> Kjugekull is defo not suitable for bouldering
>
> Are you on crack? Its really good bouldering!


Hrmph... your this:
http://cdn.motinetwork.net/demotivationalposters.net/image/demotivational-poster/0810/sarcasm-meter-...

Needs some calibrating...
David Ponting on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to David Ponting:

Thanks for all the advice! I'm being cagey about specifics of the post since nothing is confirmed, but it looks like I'll be going, if I get it, to a place that in climbing terms at least is better than Cambridge!
ads.ukclimbing.com
In reply to David Ponting:
> to a place that in climbing terms at least is better than Cambridge!

I don't think that's hard! :-) But the west coast of Sweden is surprisingly big. Down in Malmo I think you're some way from the cliffs -there's the one area down near there that all the Danes go to- but from Gothenburg north there is just loads of stuff.


This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.