/ UKC Cuillin Conditions report 22 January 2013

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Mike Lates - on 22 Jan 2013
Conditions are serious but excellent. Crampons have been going on not far above 400m. Neve, often iron-hard, continues right up to 800m with windslab accumulations quite extensive above here. Fortunately these seem pretty stable and there has been nothing fresh to add to worries for over a week now.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=211972

The crest has a good covering that varies from rock-hard to (more often) semi-consolidated powder in drifts; about knee-deep or so. Most worrying is traversing on the flanks.

Climbing conditions are amazing, particularly on the mid-level cliffs. New routes this weekend included Branching Gully (IV) on An Dalliad, a line right of Waterpipe (III), Dyke Gully & Buttress (V,6), Far from the Crowd (IV), South Crack of Caisteal a Garbh Coire (IV,5) and Vixen Groove (V,5).

Possibly the greatest epic of the meet was Dave Fowler's 50m space "walk" along the glacis above the Cioch Slab. Totally banked out and reaching the end of the rope he then had to hope Ally would start taking the rope back in as he came back!

Drinking conditions are ideal too:)
Carless - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to Mike Lates:

Fine pic there Mike

Reminds me of a truly excellent winter traverse 20+ years ago
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=22405
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=22423
Withnail - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to Mike Lates:

Hi Mike,

Any thoughts on ridge traverse conditions from Sunday onwards? I know it might be a little to early to say but I have a week and a half off work and good partner options for time off. (may be able to go from friday onwards if need be)

Thanks for emailing me conds a few months ago, sadly work got in the way...

Jon
Mike Lates - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to Withnail: Unysis has this brilliant high pressure finally giving up the fight on Sunday. Not guaranteed the end but once westerlies start up there is not much hope of predicting what will happen. Suggest you skive off Thursday & Friday.
Withnail - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to Mike Lates:

No Dice for thursday but could get the friday nightshift off i reckon. Looks crap over the weekend though. Have to leave it and hope for next week I guess
Gordon Stainforth - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to Mike Lates:

Another great picture Mike.
Steve Perry - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to Mike Lates: A great Skye Winter Climbing Festival Mike, thanks to everyone who went, what a meet.
Mike Lates - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to Steve Perry: Saturday must have been the busiest days of Cuillin winter climbing on record (25 plus climbers). In addition to our group there were 5 others climbing on Fheadian and Messrs Small & Richardson on Blabheinn- http://www.scottishwinter.com/
Not heard yet but would be surprised if there wasn't anyone on the northern end too.
Interesting shot of the Cioch area showing the mad quantities of snow- http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=212158
Steve Perry - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to Mike Lates:
> (In reply to Steve Perry) Saturday must have been the busiest days of Cuillin winter climbing on record (25 plus climbers).

There were 6 people in Coire a'Ghrunnda!
Nath93 - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to Mike Lates: A good weekend had by all. Cheers again for organising it Mike, although i managed to put various holes in the back of my belay jacket on the Saturday ha !

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