In reply to John Rushby:
> (In reply to terrymccall)
>
> Was up Friday and turned back as it was a proper hoolie.
>
> Sat we did Vortex, which is to the left of Pygmy Ridge. The slabs were loaded in parts - new slab sitting on frozen old pack. Our approach was up scoured old pack (hence the route choice)but I was surprised to see groups heading what looked to be some loaded lee slopes. I suspect it's have been loading as the wind has been an easterly for a week at least
>
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> Very scoured overall on the buttresses and on the top. .
The winds have NOT been easterly for a week. They been East-South-East then factor in cross loading - it's all in the SAIS reports. I'd be very, very careful about making assumptions until I'd gotten into the corrie and got eyes on.