Climbed 'Doctors dilema' today, good ice majority of the way with the odd snowy shelf and a few hollow sounding snow sandwich spots between old and new ice as mentioned in earlier 'beinn udlaidh' thread. Quartzvein scoop and green eyes also seeing ascents today.
Pigs were kind to us.
In reply to Paul035:
Snowing on and off all day and lots of spindrift around. Approach slopes ok but there is some deep powder making the last few metres of approach hard going in places but no real problem. Slope above doctors dilema fine as I think it will be on other routes, wind blowing it all off into the gullies.
In reply to radioshed:
Didn't climb Quartzvein so not sure how many screws required but don't think it has any particularly long pitches so a standard rack should do.
No Mark, didn't get pulled speeding, there are a couple of pigs in the field which you pass through near the farm, apparently one of them tried to eat someone's trouser leg a few days earlier! See earlier Udlaidh thread.
The single pitch routes you were on Paddy look good, we thought about having a look at them ourselves before eventually deciding to go for Doctors dilema which turned out to be good. I've uploaded a pic but hasn't appeared yet.
Back home now unfotunately but hope to be back soon.
We did Quartzvein yesterday, approach to the crag seemed fine (to me), if a bit of a wade in places. Approach in general was a bit of a slog for a short walk-in, but is a criss-cross of tracks now until it snows/blows again.
A bit of scraping/kicking required at the bottom to get to decent ice and better for axes than screws, but decent enough and good at the crux. Minor cornice now demolished for a side exit and snow being stood on seemed secure enough but not entirely convinced of its quality (I was on 2nd at that point so just hurried on past).
Sizeable cornices above the South Gully area. Freezing level was generally below the crags, apart from when the clag came down and the ice started dripping.
Other teams on West Gully, Ice Crew as above and making slow progress on Land of Make believe. Saw somebody go into Organ Pipes approach gully, but don't know if they got up. With a view from across the coire it looked like it might be quite 'sporting' with only a few icicles touching down, though looking through pics on here, the out-of-view, right-hand side is prob OK.
Peter Pan looked good. Junior's jaunt looked like it might be in from a side-view, on the approach its less obvious that the bottom corner is iced (not sure to what degree though). Would require a wade (av risk too maybe) up the start of Central Gully.
does anyone know if the ice has survived the last week of warmer temperatures? looking for somewhere to climb around the tyndrum area to break up the drive to fort william. wild speculation and first hand knowledge appreciated.
Udlaidh needs it to be properly cold. There was ice on it last week when daytime temps in the UK were around zero in towns.
Today at Glasgow Airport the maximum temperature was 12 degrees C!
I would say a good indicator for this crag would be- if you go outside and your lawn is frozen (and has been for the last 5 days) Udlaidh might be in.
> Why not try going a bit higher if you're after a climb?
Was looking for a short day due to baby duties at home.
Anyway went up today. Was pretty quiet and warmed up a bit but Sunshine Gully was good. Bomber neve all the way up from the coire floor so the run out over the bottom crag would have been nasty in a slip shudder. Crux was pretty fat I think although was starting to thaw a bit and dripping and running going on. Had thought about Quartzvein Scoop but looked a bit thin at the bottom (albeit from a distance). Folk were in West Gully and Central Gully. Another team were off to try something harder at the right hand side but I think but Im sure I heard them shouting down to each other about running water.