UKC

Following this workout throughout January to get a base level of strength to start this year's training http://climbstrong.wordpress.com/training-plans/4-week-strength-cycle-off-s...

I've often used the finger board at the wall but always thoroughly warmed up climbing problems first.

What's a good warm up for using my finger board at home? (really want to avoid injuries) Go for a run then do some pull ups and general stretching? etc

In reply to Kemics:

Yeah, good point, I guess you could use one of the gripmaster things to get the blood pumping, since I assume it's the blood going to your fingers you need? I was never much good at biology

Warm ups need to be progressive and exercise specific, starting with major muscle groups and working your down to the smaller/more sensitive ones.

I usually begin my warm up with this:

- 4x10 single leg squats whilst squeezing putty in my hands
- Dynmaic stretching
- 10 Push ups
- 3 Pull ups

By this point I've got my HR up and starting to feel warmed up but not yet ready to put any strain on my fingers. I then start doing deadhangs on the board, first on the jugs (7s on, 3s off x3 per set) and then on progressively smaller holds. Once I start moving away from the really easy holds and on to harder/more tweaky ones I do them with my feet on.

There's no hard and fast rule for when you're warmed up enough, everyone is different so experiment and see what works for you.

In reply to Kemics:

I find it tricky.

I generally do some light core exercises like side bends and hip circles. I also do reaches with my arms, simulating the range of movement I'd go through with a pull up.
Generally then I'll do some bodyweight squats, just 20 or so, then 2 or 3 sets of press ups.
Then I'll do 2 sets of 5 pull ups on the bar that I hang the fingerboard from. Then 2 sets of 5 pull ups on the biggest jug holds that the fingerboard has. Then 2 sets of 5 pull ups on the deep pockets.

After that I feel quite warmed up and ready to do hangs.

In reply to Kemics: 20 or more pull ups then wait 5 min.

In reply to Kemics: The grip masters are pretty good for warming up your fine motor skills, i.e fingers, wrists etc, I cant give you much help as im keeping off fingerboards at the precise moment, as im waiting till my finger strength develops as i dont want to risk injury, as it will put me off my climbing for a while.

- Dead hangs, and and maybe some pushups might help you warm up shoulders ready for your finger-board session

Kinda hope this helps .