/ Recommend me some routes in the Alps worth bivvying for
Thanks in advance.
Deant de Geant? Take the lift up and there is a reasonably flat walk to several bivi sites to the left as you leave the snow for the scramble up to the Deant. The Deant is MEGA busy in the morning and early after noon with numpties all trying to catch the last lift. I suggest you climb it the afternoon you arrive, the rock will have warmed in the sun and there will be less queues and rush. Arete de Rocheforte the next morning is another great route, but having done the Geant, there is no rush for the lift (you can shake your heads in amusement at the queues.)
If the route is worth doing, it's worth bivvying for.
(I'm not being facetious!)
If not using huts, the majority of routes will need a bivi anyway.
You could bivi near the Charmoz; the traverse of the both the Petit and Grand Charmoz are AD, although the Grand is much longer and more committing.
You could also try the Spencer Couloir on the Blatiere for an AD snow route.
You don't "need" to bivi for any of these, but it does avoid the slog from the Plan telepherique in addition to your climbing.
You could also bivi near the Albert Premier hut and climb on the Tour and the Chardonnet (the Forbes Arete is the classic AD), since there are loads of good bivi sites here, however you will be right next to the hut (we only bivi'd because we were skint and couldn't afford the hut) so it's not exactly a "wild" camp.
We also bivi'd in a cave where the Chardonnet Glacier meets the Argentier Glacier; ideal for PD/PD+/AD on the Aiguille d'Argentier, although again there is a hut very close here.
In Chamonix area:
-Near the Index telepherique. Luxury bivvy with five minute stroll to plenty of spots. Being close to lift you can take many bivvy luxuries -gets sun early and awesome views. Lots of routes (great warm up area )
- A few minutes from the Midi halfway telepherique. Luxury as above. Lovely evening sun. Toilets and bar nearby
- About half an hour downhill close to the Cosmiques hut. Lots of sites and loads of routes to do from there. Can use hut for toilets and lovely soups. Great views. Snowholes often in area if you like.
- About 2 hours of traversing and uphill walk leads to great bivvy sites around Albert Premier Hut.
- Around Torino hut area, assuming building works have finished!
- Five minutes walk down from the Petite Aiguille Vert. Gets busy in the morning!
All these sites have awesome views, are easy to get to, provide access to loads of routes, are fairly comfortable and most are near 'facilities'. You can find private quiet spots
Biviing near a hut might sound a bit pointless but I really enjoyed my evening by the Ecrins hut - we popped in for a lovely meal, sat on the veranda with a carafe of wine watching the sun go down, then left the residents to their stuffy snoring and fart filled dormitories while we retired to our quiet little bivi spot to watch millions of stars slowly encircle the earth, the great swathe of the Milky Way plastered across the sky, the odd sattelite traversing its way across the heavens and more shooting stars than I could count...
> .......then left the residents to their stuffy snoring and fart filled dormitories while we retired to our quiet little bivi spot to watch millions of stars slowly encircle the earth, the great swathe of the Milky Way plastered across the sky, the odd sattelite traversing its way across the heavens and more shooting stars than I could count...
Yes, bivvying beats huts anytime!
Beat me to it! Bivvy huts could be a good first step away from wardened huts. The normal route on the Aletschhorn, starting from Mittelaletsch bivvy hut, might be another suitable target for the o.p.
Elsewhere on the site
If asked to name a British female climber who stood out at a time when British women's climbing wasn't... Read more
A product review by James Turnbull. James Turnbull at Outside recently took the new Osprey Mutant 38 on a rigorous test in the... Read more
Nick Livesey discovered the mountains of Snowdonia over a decade ago and finally moved there a year and a half ago, quitting a... Read more
As a long-standing name in the UK rockshoe market, Scarpa have a loyal following and many much-loved models. As a fan... Read more
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more