Any recommendations on which route to do for a novice leader? Just seen a photo of this amazing lump of rock and thought I have to do it, so planning on scaling it in July.
In reply to brokenbanjo: The route that's the normal descent has a few pitches on it - not sure of the grade but it's such a wonderful summit. Have only done the Pilier Sud route which is about French 5+, I think, with some entertaining rock and route-finding.
Tour des Gemeaux would be a lot for a novice leader. Note that the first pitch has a couple of moves which are very height/reach dependent (FR "morpho"), so if you're significantly shorter than average, watch out.
Also the first move onto the wall is pretty intimidating for a new leader of any height. And the move around the corner to get in position for the A0 are pretty intimidating (on polished footholds).
Also my feeling was that the Tour des Gemeaux route is less than the most interesting climbing I've done in France -- it would be far less popular if it were not on Mont Aiguille.
Voie Normal is a better choice for a new leader.
Note that the normal descent with rappels (double ropes required) is not trivial for inexperienced followers - (this applies for the Voie Normal as well as Tour des Gemeaux).
