/ Installing washing machine
Turns out the best price is offered by company that charges an arm and a leg for installation.
Could (should??) an average person be trying to do the installation?
There are only three or sometimes two pipes to connect.
Hot, cold and out. They just screw on and the only hard thing is moving the thing into the slot due to the weight of them.
Could you slide your old one out so you can have look at the connections and decide if you can do it yourself?
Most new washing machines don't even have a hot fill. Just make sure you close the tap on the fill pipe before unscrewing anything.
Modern washing machines tend not to do hot these days.
To the OP - it is an absolute doddle. The hardest thing if you have a vinyl floor is not ripping it, but you can get away with this by using a little sun flower oil on the feet of the machine before sliding it in.
1) Turn off water to old washing machine
2) take old washing machine out, unscrew water hoses from back of old washing machine, leaving them attached to the wall.
3) Take the transit bolts(1) out (usually four, usually accessed from the back, however the manual will tell you exactly where and how many) from the new washing machine.
4) Screw water hoses onto new washing machine. DO NOT cross thread, otherwise you'll have water everywhere and have to go and buy some new hoses from BNQ for a tenner.
5) Turn on water.
(1) S*dding great bolts stopping the drum and the hunk of attached concrete moving when in transit.
Same as above - doddle to install, take out transit bolts and connect cold feed and waste pipe and carefully push new machine into place, making sure you don't dent the front panel in the process.
Only thing I'd add is you may want to consider putting a proper stopper end on the old hot feed pipe, rather than relying on the little stopcock tap.
Does the delivery or installation include taking away the old machine?
The first time it was dead easy, but the last time was a nightmare because the new hose leaked and the supply tap was broken!
1) Before buying a leaky and then a working blue supply hose, look in the drum and you may find one came with the machine!
2) There's just the cold water supply and the waste these days.
3) Find the stop cock before number 4 happens.
4) If the plastic tap handle on supply is broken or spins you can still turn off the water using a screw driver (clockwise on metal screw head at centre of tap).
Whatever you do do not forget to remove the transit bolts!
Apart from that it is a doddle, probably worth making sure the water feed pipe isn't going to rub on any edges when installing it as you don't want to save up problems for later :-)
if you go to b@q you can buy a sleeve with a built in stop valve specifically designed for a washing machine that screws onto any cold copper supply pipe making the water tight joint (Phillips screwdriver no plumbing involved).
secondly plumb the waste water pipe into the waste outlet under the sink (plastic push on fittings)
thirdly . find a suitable electric socket and plug it.
finally if you have bought a new machine,dont forget to take the "transit "bolts which hold the drum in place during carriage.
goes without saying to check for leaks and run it through a cycle before the final fix.
ps .don't scratch your new tiles!
Take note of any obstructions at the back before pushing it back in and dont just ram it back flush with the wall!
Central heating engineer cracked a pipe the day he replaced our boiler.
forgot to mention to level it off with a spirit level or you may find your machine trying to get out the back door when its spinning..
> forgot to mention to level it off with a spirit level
crikey, I've never gone that far!
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