In reply to Pagan:
> (In reply to Jon Stewart)
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> Isn't it on that horrid, grey, shiny stuff that feels like an oil slick in anything other than overcast, sub-zero conditions?
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Yes, that's it. I was apprehensive about the weird shiny bits but once you get going, it's fantastic. Until you get to the loose top bit (it is Pembroke...) it's one solid chunk of really aesthetic rock with really cool little holds all over it. Nothing like that horrible pile of dusty concrete blocks you get down the way at Govans. I don't expect the Keelhaul slab to just fall into the sea any time soon (but the top might shed a few chunks).
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> I really didn't enjoy BB at all, which was a shame as I was really looking forward to it - the climbing was totally different to what I was expecting - it felt more like an awkward grit thug route with difficult gear than the enjoyable face climb it appears to be from a distance.
That's odd. It is a bit steeper and crackier than you might expect, but I'd describe it as quite an intricate route, traversing around between good cracks, with good gear (small cams were definitely handy, but it's a wall with thin cracks...). Bit of jamming certainly, but nice energy-saving jamming not grit style unjammable cracks that can't be climbed other than by being a jamming maestro.
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> It's a fantastic place. Looking forward to going back to do Deep Space and maybe Zeppelin this year...
Zeppelin's an odd one - I onsighted it OK a couple of years back, and then last year I had to aid it on second (a demoralising experience). The leader - who was doing fine on E4s that week - found the crux tough too. Dunno if I just had a good day the first time or if something (for your right foot?) has fallen off the crux, making it full-on 6a.