In reply to CurlyStevo:
Anyway, five minutes of reading that shows that it's not 80kg (or 60kg) - its considerably more because it's that load applied to a lever (such as a fig 8 or rappel rack).
Taking figures and quoting them out of context is unhelpful at best.
As for "Biners can break at the sleeve from inward pressure of a lot less than 80 kg" well, that is still self-evidently not true as shown in the document you linked - however an 80kg (or even a 60kg) load applied to a suitable lever will easily tear the sleeve on a locking krab. Nothing new in that - the thing that caused concern (and is the substance of the paper)is the way in which you can construct such a lever using climbing gear in a configuration that is not much removed from the norm.
Anyway, the day you break a krab without a lever and just body weight is the day all our climbing gear gets a whole lot heavier. Everything has its limitations (and necessarily so where there are conflicting requirements such as weigh, strength, cost etc) - the important thing is to recognise the limitations and not misinterpret their relevance in any given situation.