In reply to Vulgar_Monkey:
"My main concern is that someone will tell me I have to ease right back for a while longer"
Your main concern *should* be that if you f*&% up your finger permanently your ability to climb hard could be affected for many years, if not life. On a more prosaic and immediate level, you may well find yourself training harder and harder and getting worse and worse: what a waste of effort!
IMO 15-20 hours a week of climbing seems excessive on a finger injury. FWIW here's what I would do if it was me:
* focus on climbing only easy stuff, and do so open-handed; if you hate open-handed grips then even more so (read Dave's book, 9/10 climbers) (you say: "A lot of these were pretty exclusively crimpy stuff, unsurprisingly" - I don't agree this is an automatic corollary of F6c/V4, but I guess that may depend on your wall as well as your strength at open-handed climbing)
* reduce climbing to twice a week, 2hrs max per session (or 10 routes perhaps), max grade F6a and focussing on choosing juggy routes with big holds. Personally I need these firm limits otherwise the boundaries just creep gradually up over a few sessions until reinjury reminds me. If this hurts go down more grades, or stop altogether.
* do 2-3 sessions a week of strength training that doesn't use fingers, perhaps focussing on weighted pull-ups and core training; set yourself some real challenging goals here, and put the work in so you feel you'll come back ripped and much stronger than pre-injury! Personally I like L hangs and foot flyaways (
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxUo-6h2dA0) for abs. You could also do some antagonist work for shoulders and stretching, depending on your weaknesses. Typewriters and Frenchies are also worthwhile.
Or just keep climbing until it's so bad you HAVE to stop.
That's what I did the first 3 or 4 times