/ Sloper v crimp strength..

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sip a cup - on 27 Jan 2013
I've been setting some new boulder problems all with slopers
I'm used to climbing / training on crimps due to the local lime stone crags which
Is a crimpfest. My question is does training on slopers give me more all round finger and forearm strength? my thinking is that you need to use more muscle groups to keep you on.
highclimber - on 27 Jan 2013
In reply to sip a cup: I am lead to beleive, by 9/10 climbers by Dave McLeod that training on slopers will increase your crimping ability but not the other way around
AJM - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to highclimber:

Really?!? Having read the book several times that's not a message I've ever seen, and it contradicts usual training guidance that finger position is quite specific when trained. Also, they use different flexors because the joints that are hyper extended, compressed or whatever are totally different.
sip a cup - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to AJM:

The book does mention that it is a safer way of getting stronger.
Maybe the way to find out is to keep putting it into practice and see the results
myself In a few weeks time.
AJM - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to sip a cup:

Do you mean open hand being a safer way to climb - for sure it is, but I dont think it'll improve your crimp strength by very much, especially not compared with training half crimp or similar...
needvert on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to sip a cup:

We had a thread on this a while ago...With people mentioning how good half crimping is, and how open handed can lead to injury too. Not sure of the consensus on which of the three is the least injury prone.
sip a cup - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to needvert:

I've do use a half crip position every now and again but never trained on a half crimp
I have found I have a slight finger niggle after bouldering on slopers probably more the case of braking in a new set hand positions and not resting enough.
mkean - on 28 Jan 2013
In reply to sip a cup:
I think slopers are a better full arm workout than crimps but I don't think it'll hugely help with positive crimps.

When setting with slopers I've found you have to be a little more mindful of thinking about peoples body shapes: Positive holds let you get up really high on them with and hold them from a variety of positions yet sloper are much easier to hold when you are below them. This makes bunched slopers desperate for taller climbers who can't get their weight low enough while reaches above slopers can be very hard for shorter climbers. Also sit starts on slopers are frequently a real pain for the tall!

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