UKC

climbing the arete to left of elder crack at curbar edge

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 BolderLicious 27 Jan 2013
The arete to the left of elder crack at curbar edge has not been climbed.
Is it possible to climb it free? Has anyone tried any moves on a top rope?
Looks like the only thing that can hold a climber on the arete is friction.
Or are there some good pebbles somewhere?
In reply to BolderLicious: I thought that was Elder Statesman done by Steve Mclure.
 Morgan P 28 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious: If the first replier is correct, this is a video of it:
youtube.com/watch?v=QDTAKVUE_g4&
In reply to jonathan shepherd:

It seems that a prime requirement is that you're 'not very good with fear'
 Jonny2vests 28 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:

Next thread?
Simon_Sheff 28 Jan 2013
In reply to jonny2vests:

Its not been done direct. The elder statesman traverses out onto it from eldar crack.
 Jonny2vests 28 Jan 2013
In reply to Simon_Sheff:

Yeah, I know. I was just having a wee dig at Threadalicious.
OP BolderLicious 28 Jan 2013
In reply to Morgan P:
That isn't a traverse it's a dive sideways!
 Jonny2vests 28 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:

Its an extemporisation.

He only misses out 1 move on the arete, because he has to place the six. Don't you reckon it would be a bit contrived to place the six, down climb a bit of elder, then head back up the arete? Or maybe you're thinking forget the six and go balls out?
 Graham Hoey 28 Jan 2013
In reply to jonny2vests:

I understand there's a bit more to it than that i.e. it's a lot harder to climb the lower bit than what Steve did. It has been tried.
OP BolderLicious 28 Jan 2013
In reply to jonny2vests:
It would be contrived going back down.
That move steve maclure makes shows what a creative thinker the guy is.
And it still takes a lotta bottle to do it.I know he claims he isn't into danger but I reckon his idea of danger and mine are two very different
things.What I want to know is has anyone actually hung onto the bottom of the arete and managed to move upwards -even one move!What grade do people
think it will be if/when it is done?
 bouldery bits 28 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:

Steady HVS mate.
 Kid Spatula 28 Jan 2013
In reply to BolderLicious:

I've heard its severe if you don't do the crazy foot move.
 Jonny2vests 29 Jan 2013
In reply to Graham Hoey:

No doubt. I'm just saying there's not much of it, because the arete doesn't start on the ground I think?

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