/ Least Adventurous Climbing Areas

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
The Ivanator - on 29 Jan 2013
Inspired by the Adventurous thread (and my tongue in cheek reply) I asked myself what were the least adventurous crags we have.

By unadventurous I mean:
-easily accessible (short walk in, no abseiling)
-friendly flat base
-gear in place, or ample natural gear available
-single pitch
-reliable rock

Of course a crag can fulfil all or most of these criteria and still offer a great day out, perhaps one where the focus is on the moves rather than the "experience"
PS I am a big fan of adventure climbing!
mrchewy - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: Stanage
Duncan Campbell - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: castle inn quarry
mkean - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:
Southern Sandstone?
Sennen? ;-)
pamph - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:
> Inspired by the Adventurous thread (and my tongue in cheek reply) I asked myself what were the least adventurous crags we have.
>
> By unadventurous I mean:
> -easily accessible (short walk in, no abseiling)
> -friendly flat base
> -gear in place, or ample natural gear available
> -single pitch
> -reliable rock
>
> Of course a crag can fulfil all or most of these criteria and still offer a great day out, perhaps one where the focus is on the moves rather than the "experience"
> PS I am a big fan of adventure climbing!

Reiff, Polldubh, Logie Head, Creag Dhu, Polney Crag.........the list goes on!
teh_mark - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

Bowden?
Mr. K - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: Any indoor wall.
climber_medic - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: Symonds yat. Dogshit!!!
















Await incoming bite
Owen W-G - on 29 Jan 2013
Bowles Rocks, hand down the most sanitised climbing venue in Britain.

I had thought of Subluminal - least intimidating seacliff I've visited - but then the pro there isn't always great and it's seen its fair share of accidents


The Ivanator - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: Obviously there was my own suggestion (on the other thread) of the Cuttings - flat base, 3 minute walk in, bolted, single pitch, fairly reliable rock (better than much of Portland), also friendly climate by British standards and often sheltered.
cb294 - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

East Anglia, hands down.

CB
In reply to The Ivanator:

Taff's Well down here in South Wales is about 40m from a dual carriageway with easy parking.

I can be a bit of an adventure trusting some of the older bolts though...
EeeByGum - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: I am going to go for this place based on ease of access:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=6748

Sadly, you are no longer allowed to park there and have to walk all the way from the road!

As for a close second, I would say Windgather.
Gordon Stainforth - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to Boulders@Cardiff:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
> Taff's Well down here in South Wales is about 40m from a dual carriageway with easy parking.
>
> I can be a bit of an adventure trusting some of the older bolts though...

What about some of the completely unbolted old routes? That was adventure with capital letters, and a few people died there ...

Gordon Stainforth - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:
> Bowles Rocks, hand down the most sanitised climbing venue in Britain.
>

Bowles Rocks becomes a bit adventurous if you solo the Girdle Traverse ...
The Ivanator - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to Owen W-G: Yes, Subluminal is deceptive, I've seen people airlifted out before. Those comfortable belay ledges high above the tide do not make for safe landings and the climbs are so short that any fall has a disturbingly high chance of a deck out. Came fairly close to decking there myself, despite thinking I was not that far above a bomber piece - with rope stretch and my lighter belayer taking off I ended up only 18 inches off the floor.
The Ivanator - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to EeeByGum:
> (In reply to The Ivanator) I am going to go for this place based on ease of access:
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=6748
>
Doesn't look like it fulfils the "reliable rock" criteria to me.
pasbury on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

Surely it's Shepherds. Or Threecliffs in the Gower. Approach across level sand to short well protected diffs in abundance. Of course the tide might get you though.
Tom Last - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

Roche Rock
Birchen
That dreadful sport crag near Chamonix with the bolted on holds...
john arran - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

You'd struggle to beat Raven Tor for those criteria. If you can handle the relatively huge walk-in there's Kilnsey too.
Roberttaylor - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: I train by doing the walk in to Bowden with a bouldering mat on my back. Then I use both a rope and a bouldering mat to make the climbing as unadventurous as possible.

R
aln - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: Auchinstarry quarry used to qualify until the council did their most recent bout of remedial work. Now you have to climb over a berm from the carpark and it now takes at least 4 seconds to get the foot of the rock! It's an outrage.
prog99 on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to aln:
At least the routes round the back still have an adventurous approach. last year the vegetation reached lost world proportions.
Kemics - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

I'd say Dewerstone for trad, admittedly it has a walk in of sorts. So maybe that disqualifies it. But other than 10 min walk it's got flat picnic areas, easy to place/bomber gear, mostly tree belays so no faff, reliable rock.

It's also really good climbing.
earlsdonwhu - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to mkean: Sennen can be adventurous.... indeed I think people have been swept away byfreak waves!
prog99 on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to pamph:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
> [...]
>
> Reiff, Polldubh, Logie Head, Creag Dhu, Polney Crag.........the list goes on!
Its a bit of a walk to get to Logie Head. And then theres the ticks and the creepy pet cemetery you have to walk past.
Hammy - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:
I propose Benny Beg - fits all the criteria!
GrahamD - on 29 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

Bowles Rocks, I would say.
The Ivanator - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to cb294:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
> East Anglia, hands down.
>
> CB

Well it certainly has a flat base.
Trina B - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:
i'd say windgather.
benny beg's also a wee bit on the limp side, in terms of adventure.
Enty - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

Castle Inn Quarry?

E
summo on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:Brimham Rocks, Windgather, Lion Rocks(Fachwen), Tin Can Alley, Little Tryfan, The Pinnacles, Ricks & Racks, Penallta, Ravens Crag(behind Chapel stile), Craigmore (north of milngavie)... endless list :)
tommycoopersghost on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to climber_medic:
> (In reply to The Ivanator) Symonds yat. Dogshit!!!

Fails the initial criteria for several reasons.

Flat ground - in places, others worrying, steep, muddy slopes and very large drops below path

ample natural gear, in places, but not many

reliable rock - there's not an much of that at all

it sees more than its fair share of nasty accidents, rockfalls and deckouts

all in all, quite adventurous climbing with good parking and a tea cabin thing on hand.

The defence rests your honour.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Await incoming bite

Ava Adore - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

Baslow in the Peak
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Wow, I had no idea. How long ago was that? And do you know which route?

Maybe I'll withdraw my vote for Taffs Well then and instead put forward Tirpentwys, another South Wales crag with a nice short walk along a tarmac path through a nature reserve to find some short, sheltered and grid bolted lines. Lovely routes to climb, but adventurous they are not.
beardy mike - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to Kemics: Got to be said, you're face on Climbers club direct would disagree with you ;)

Horseshoe bend buttress at cheddar. Flat, a 1 metre walk in, bolted routes, some overbolted, with solid lime and not much chance of rock fall from above. The greatest hazard is getting run down by a pleb in a Nova.
Carolyn - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

Head End Quarry/Sandale (Cumbria). I can't believe Skyfall hasn't suggested it already...... ;-)
stvredmond - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to moraldecay: still you cant deny.....it is dog shite :D
Gordon Stainforth - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to Boulders@Cardiff:

I am fairly certain that someone was killed on Pine Tree, and possibly another one on Nero.
summo on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to Boulders@Cardiff: roadside quarry or the gap? The natives are the only hazard there.
ads.ukclimbing.com
tommycoopersghost on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to stvredmond:
> (In reply to moraldecay) still you cant deny.....it is dog shite :D

the prow
The Russian
tiger cub special
golden fleece
exchange
snoozin susie
moss wall
red rose speedway
Kipper crack
Kebbo
Joyces route
vertigo

Can you honestly deny that these low to mid grade routes are fantastic?

There's many more across all grades.
Owen W-G - on 30 Jan 2013
Bowles is definitely the winner

Harborough in the peak in second place?
tommycoopersghost on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

bowles can be very adventurous.

We used to get train from London bridge to tunbridge wells. Pint there, then route at bulls hollow, pint, walk to happy valley, route, pint on walk to to high rocks annex, pint, route at high rocks continuation, pint, route at high rocks (no paying, that's cheating and immoral)...

Continue round area, poncing lifts where necessary.

Bowles can then be very adventurous. Depending on what order you arrive there.
Al Evans on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to moraldecay: Has to be Windgather in the Peak, Bowles in the SE, and Shepherds Crag in the Lakes. There is no such thing as an unadventurous crag in Scotland, unless it's Dumbarton Rock or That other place that begins with D thats by the road, is it Dunkeld? Of course any crag is as adventurous as you want to make it.
Cameron94 on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: Any number of sport crags...
I couldn't name any though as I've never bothered to find them.
Jon Stewart - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to Ava Adore:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
> Baslow in the Peak

I think Baslow is rather adventurous actually. In summer it can hard to negotiate the bottom of the crag due to bracken and I associate the crag most with routes around HVS that have no gear and cartwheeling-down-the-hill landings at best. I have shat myself more than once at Baslow.
tommycoopersghost on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to Ava Adore)

I have shat myself more than once at Baslow.

Have you climbed at the roaches recently per chance?

Jon Stewart - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to moraldecay: That's not my style. I just try to ignore it, and hope that none will exit the bottom of my trouser legs. Thermals help with this, but aren't appropriate in summer.
climber_medic - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to stvredmond: Teehee. ;-)
LJC - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: +1 for Bowles. At least the 'walk in' to Harrison's is muddy...
Skip - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to Southern Man:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
> Roche Rock >

agree
pamph - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to Mike_Watson_99:
> (In reply to pamph)
> [...]
> Its a bit of a walk to get to Logie Head. And then theres the ticks and the creepy pet cemetery you have to walk past.

Well the OP did say 'short walk in with no abseiling' so it might qualify. But there are also the steps to negociate so maybe that disqualifies Logie Head!
aln - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to moraldecay) There is no such thing as an unadventurous crag in Scotland

Nonsense.
climbingpixie - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to Al Evans:

I agree with Windgather. Least adventurous crag I've ever been to. In Wales I'd nominate Dali's Hole sport climbing or Porth Clais in North Pembroke.
Al Evans on 31 Jan 2013
In reply to climbingpixie:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
>
> I agree with Windgather. Least adventurous crag I've ever been to. In Wales I'd nominate Dali's Hole sport climbing or Porth Clais in North Pembroke.

Don't agree with Porth Clais, you have to ab in and with a big sea running and the tide coming in it can be quite scarey.
Dave Garnett - on 31 Jan 2013
In reply to earlsdonwhu:
> (In reply to mkean) Sennen can be adventurous.... indeed I think people have been swept away byfreak waves!

I agree. I've had plenty of adventure at Sennen - waves over the crag, the blowhole (since exploded), slabs covered with slime, the descent chimney covered in slime, an abseil rope wearing through, proper jamming and stiff grading...
iccy - on 31 Jan 2013
In reply to LJC:
> (In reply to The Ivanator) +1 for Bowles. At least the 'walk in' to Harrison's is muddy...

+1
climbingpixie - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to Al Evans:

I realised after I'd posted that there was more than just the bit I was thinking of. I was thinking more about the bit with Red Wall on it, where you can scramble down to the bottom. It's certainly the friendliest sea cliff I've ever been to.
In reply to The Ivanator: Windgather and Harborough Rocks
i.munro - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: I think I need a definition of adventurous but bowles seems an odd choice. Of the op s five criteria it satisfies 3 but I'm not sure about reliable rock and there is no gear (well a handful of ancient bolts)
Trangia - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to Mr. K:
> (In reply to The Ivanator) Any indoor wall.

+1

And Southern Sandstone because although technically challenging, it's incredibly safe being all top roping (ie non adventurous)

Trangia - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to Trangia:
> (In reply to Mr. K)
> [...]
>
> +1
>
> And Southern Sandstone because although technically challenging, it's incredibly safe being all top roping (ie non adventurous)

I should add though that if you are so inclined you can make it very adventurous by soloing :)
i.munro - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to Trangia: you can choose to toprope ( I usually do) but that's true of most places.
Jimbo C - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

No mention of Burbage North yet. The 20ft wall is full of very short easy routes and is 1 minute from the car.
Big Lee - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

Anything on grit - come-on don't kid yourselves otherwise!

Any sport route crags - assuming properly bolted and the rock reliable

Overall, Bowles Rocks must be the winner though.



GrahamD - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to i.munro:
> (In reply to Trangia) you can choose to toprope ( I usually do) but that's true of most places.

Not really - most places are too long to top rope.
LJC - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to Trangia: Making something hazardous doesn't make it adventurous. I could eat a packet of uncooked, out of date, economy burgers. Hazardous, but hardly adventurous.
Trangia - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to LJC:
> (In reply to Trangia) Making something hazardous doesn't make it adventurous. I could eat a packet of uncooked, out of date, economy burgers. Hazardous, but hardly adventurous.

I agree, but top roping compared to soloing or leading is hardly adventurous is it?

BrendanO - on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to Hammy:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
> I propose Benny Beg - fits all the criteria!

...and it has baby-changing facilities, and a garden shop! I once saw aa climber there with baby + grandparents - all happy!!

Seems not to rain when wet nearby too.

Mark Collins - on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: Witches Quarry, belay from the comfort of your own car. A leader fall could make this interesting though.
andic - on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to Mark Collins:
> (In reply to The Ivanator) Witches Quarry, belay from the comfort of your own car. A leader fall could make this interesting though.

search "toprope tough guys" on youtube, cant post a link as I'm in China atm
Al Evans on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to climbingpixie: Just to remind you about Porth Clais
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=190451
Al Evans on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to Al Evans: PS, Red Wall is just to the right :-)
neuromancer - on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

Surely tramadol deserves a mention if we're talking trad cliffs only. 5ft from a main road, barn with bunkbeds, indoor wall, cafe, toilets, washrooms, rafters to hang rope and sock wrestle from?

I guess it is mostly multipitch, in its defence?
Steve Perry - on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: Coire an t'Sneachda, the Stanage Edge for winter climbers.
Julian Wedd on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

The Indoor Wall
Mark Collins - on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to andic: Ah yes, a convertible sorts out any leader falls nicely. Thanks.
Fredt on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

Buachaille Etive Mor with a thin veneer of rime?
muppetfilter - on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: It can only be castle inn quarry .. Tarmac 2ft from the rock, bolts and a pub 100ft away.
ayuplass - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:
Woodhouse scar - open the car door, cross the pavement, nip over a low wall and you are at the top of the crag. Beautiful views of the Halifax Building Society too
ads.ukclimbing.com

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.