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Inspired by the Adventurous thread (and my tongue in cheek reply) I asked myself what were the least adventurous crags we have.
By unadventurous I mean:
-easily accessible (short walk in, no abseiling)
-friendly flat base
-gear in place, or ample natural gear available
-single pitch
-reliable rock
Of course a crag can fulfil all or most of these criteria and still offer a great day out, perhaps one where the focus is on the moves rather than the "experience"
PS I am a big fan of adventure climbing!
By unadventurous I mean:
-easily accessible (short walk in, no abseiling)
-friendly flat base
-gear in place, or ample natural gear available
-single pitch
-reliable rock
Of course a crag can fulfil all or most of these criteria and still offer a great day out, perhaps one where the focus is on the moves rather than the "experience"
PS I am a big fan of adventure climbing!
In reply to The Ivanator: Stanage
In reply to The Ivanator: castle inn quarry
In reply to The Ivanator:
Reiff, Polldubh, Logie Head, Creag Dhu, Polney Crag.........the list goes on!
> Inspired by the Adventurous thread (and my tongue in cheek reply) I asked myself what were the least adventurous crags we have.
>
> By unadventurous I mean:
> -easily accessible (short walk in, no abseiling)
> -friendly flat base
> -gear in place, or ample natural gear available
> -single pitch
> -reliable rock
>
> Of course a crag can fulfil all or most of these criteria and still offer a great day out, perhaps one where the focus is on the moves rather than the "experience"
> PS I am a big fan of adventure climbing!
>
> By unadventurous I mean:
> -easily accessible (short walk in, no abseiling)
> -friendly flat base
> -gear in place, or ample natural gear available
> -single pitch
> -reliable rock
>
> Of course a crag can fulfil all or most of these criteria and still offer a great day out, perhaps one where the focus is on the moves rather than the "experience"
> PS I am a big fan of adventure climbing!
Reiff, Polldubh, Logie Head, Creag Dhu, Polney Crag.........the list goes on!
In reply to The Ivanator: Any indoor wall.
Bowles Rocks, hand down the most sanitised climbing venue in Britain.
I had thought of Subluminal - least intimidating seacliff I've visited - but then the pro there isn't always great and it's seen its fair share of accidents
I had thought of Subluminal - least intimidating seacliff I've visited - but then the pro there isn't always great and it's seen its fair share of accidents
In reply to The Ivanator: Obviously there was my own suggestion (on the other thread) of the Cuttings - flat base, 3 minute walk in, bolted, single pitch, fairly reliable rock (better than much of Portland), also friendly climate by British standards and often sheltered.
In reply to The Ivanator:
Taff's Well down here in South Wales is about 40m from a dual carriageway with easy parking.
I can be a bit of an adventure trusting some of the older bolts though...
Taff's Well down here in South Wales is about 40m from a dual carriageway with easy parking.
I can be a bit of an adventure trusting some of the older bolts though...
In reply to The Ivanator: I am going to go for this place based on ease of access:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=6748
Sadly, you are no longer allowed to park there and have to walk all the way from the road!
As for a close second, I would say Windgather.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=6748
Sadly, you are no longer allowed to park there and have to walk all the way from the road!
As for a close second, I would say Windgather.
In reply to Boulders@Cardiff:
What about some of the completely unbolted old routes? That was adventure with capital letters, and a few people died there ...
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
> Taff's Well down here in South Wales is about 40m from a dual carriageway with easy parking.
>
> I can be a bit of an adventure trusting some of the older bolts though...
>
> Taff's Well down here in South Wales is about 40m from a dual carriageway with easy parking.
>
> I can be a bit of an adventure trusting some of the older bolts though...
What about some of the completely unbolted old routes? That was adventure with capital letters, and a few people died there ...
In reply to Owen W-G:
Bowles Rocks becomes a bit adventurous if you solo the Girdle Traverse ...
> Bowles Rocks, hand down the most sanitised climbing venue in Britain.
>
>
Bowles Rocks becomes a bit adventurous if you solo the Girdle Traverse ...
In reply to Owen W-G: Yes, Subluminal is deceptive, I've seen people airlifted out before. Those comfortable belay ledges high above the tide do not make for safe landings and the climbs are so short that any fall has a disturbingly high chance of a deck out. Came fairly close to decking there myself, despite thinking I was not that far above a bomber piece - with rope stretch and my lighter belayer taking off I ended up only 18 inches off the floor.
In reply to EeeByGum:
> (In reply to The Ivanator) I am going to go for this place based on ease of access:
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=6748
>
Doesn't look like it fulfils the "reliable rock" criteria to me. >
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=6748
>
In reply to The Ivanator:
Surely it's Shepherds. Or Threecliffs in the Gower. Approach across level sand to short well protected diffs in abundance. Of course the tide might get you though.
Surely it's Shepherds. Or Threecliffs in the Gower. Approach across level sand to short well protected diffs in abundance. Of course the tide might get you though.
In reply to The Ivanator:
Roche Rock
Birchen
That dreadful sport crag near Chamonix with the bolted on holds...
Roche Rock
Birchen
That dreadful sport crag near Chamonix with the bolted on holds...
In reply to The Ivanator:
You'd struggle to beat Raven Tor for those criteria. If you can handle the relatively huge walk-in there's Kilnsey too.
You'd struggle to beat Raven Tor for those criteria. If you can handle the relatively huge walk-in there's Kilnsey too.
In reply to The Ivanator: I train by doing the walk in to Bowden with a bouldering mat on my back. Then I use both a rope and a bouldering mat to make the climbing as unadventurous as possible.
R
R
In reply to The Ivanator: Auchinstarry quarry used to qualify until the council did their most recent bout of remedial work. Now you have to climb over a berm from the carpark and it now takes at least 4 seconds to get the foot of the rock! It's an outrage.
In reply to aln:
At least the routes round the back still have an adventurous approach. last year the vegetation reached lost world proportions.
At least the routes round the back still have an adventurous approach. last year the vegetation reached lost world proportions.
In reply to The Ivanator:
I'd say Dewerstone for trad, admittedly it has a walk in of sorts. So maybe that disqualifies it. But other than 10 min walk it's got flat picnic areas, easy to place/bomber gear, mostly tree belays so no faff, reliable rock.
It's also really good climbing.
I'd say Dewerstone for trad, admittedly it has a walk in of sorts. So maybe that disqualifies it. But other than 10 min walk it's got flat picnic areas, easy to place/bomber gear, mostly tree belays so no faff, reliable rock.
It's also really good climbing.
In reply to Reach>Talent: Sennen can be adventurous.... indeed I think people have been swept away byfreak waves!
In reply to pamph:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
> [...]
>
> Reiff, Polldubh, Logie Head, Creag Dhu, Polney Crag.........the list goes on!
Its a bit of a walk to get to Logie Head. And then theres the ticks and the creepy pet cemetery you have to walk past.> [...]
>
> Reiff, Polldubh, Logie Head, Creag Dhu, Polney Crag.........the list goes on!
In reply to The Ivanator:
I propose Benny Beg - fits all the criteria!
I propose Benny Beg - fits all the criteria!
In reply to cb294:
Well it certainly has a flat base.
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
> East Anglia, hands down.
>
> CB
>
> East Anglia, hands down.
>
> CB
Well it certainly has a flat base.
In reply to The Ivanator:
i'd say windgather.
benny beg's also a wee bit on the limp side, in terms of adventure.
i'd say windgather.
benny beg's also a wee bit on the limp side, in terms of adventure.
In reply to The Ivanator:Brimham Rocks, Windgather, Lion Rocks(Fachwen), Tin Can Alley, Little Tryfan, The Pinnacles, Ricks & Racks, Penallta, Ravens Crag(behind Chapel stile), Craigmore (north of milngavie)... endless list
In reply to climber_medic:
Fails the initial criteria for several reasons.
Flat ground - in places, others worrying, steep, muddy slopes and very large drops below path
ample natural gear, in places, but not many
reliable rock - there's not an much of that at all
it sees more than its fair share of nasty accidents, rockfalls and deckouts
all in all, quite adventurous climbing with good parking and a tea cabin thing on hand.
The defence rests your honour.
> (In reply to The Ivanator) Symonds yat. Dogshit!!!
Fails the initial criteria for several reasons.
Flat ground - in places, others worrying, steep, muddy slopes and very large drops below path
ample natural gear, in places, but not many
reliable rock - there's not an much of that at all
it sees more than its fair share of nasty accidents, rockfalls and deckouts
all in all, quite adventurous climbing with good parking and a tea cabin thing on hand.
The defence rests your honour.
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In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Wow, I had no idea. How long ago was that? And do you know which route?
Maybe I'll withdraw my vote for Taffs Well then and instead put forward Tirpentwys, another South Wales crag with a nice short walk along a tarmac path through a nature reserve to find some short, sheltered and grid bolted lines. Lovely routes to climb, but adventurous they are not.
Wow, I had no idea. How long ago was that? And do you know which route?
Maybe I'll withdraw my vote for Taffs Well then and instead put forward Tirpentwys, another South Wales crag with a nice short walk along a tarmac path through a nature reserve to find some short, sheltered and grid bolted lines. Lovely routes to climb, but adventurous they are not.
In reply to Kemics: Got to be said, you're face on Climbers club direct would disagree with you
Horseshoe bend buttress at cheddar. Flat, a 1 metre walk in, bolted routes, some overbolted, with solid lime and not much chance of rock fall from above. The greatest hazard is getting run down by a pleb in a Nova.
Horseshoe bend buttress at cheddar. Flat, a 1 metre walk in, bolted routes, some overbolted, with solid lime and not much chance of rock fall from above. The greatest hazard is getting run down by a pleb in a Nova.
In reply to The Ivanator:
Head End Quarry/Sandale (Cumbria). I can't believe Skyfall hasn't suggested it already......
Head End Quarry/Sandale (Cumbria). I can't believe Skyfall hasn't suggested it already......
In reply to moraldecay: still you cant deny.....it is dog shite
In reply to Boulders@Cardiff:
I am fairly certain that someone was killed on Pine Tree, and possibly another one on Nero.
I am fairly certain that someone was killed on Pine Tree, and possibly another one on Nero.
In reply to Boulders@Cardiff: roadside quarry or the gap? The natives are the only hazard there.
In reply to stvredmond:
the prow
The Russian
tiger cub special
golden fleece
exchange
snoozin susie
moss wall
red rose speedway
Kipper crack
Kebbo
Joyces route
vertigo
Can you honestly deny that these low to mid grade routes are fantastic?
There's many more across all grades.
> (In reply to moraldecay) still you cant deny.....it is dog shite
the prow
The Russian
tiger cub special
golden fleece
exchange
snoozin susie
moss wall
red rose speedway
Kipper crack
Kebbo
Joyces route
vertigo
Can you honestly deny that these low to mid grade routes are fantastic?
There's many more across all grades.
Bowles is definitely the winner
Harborough in the peak in second place?
Harborough in the peak in second place?
In reply to Owen W-G:
bowles can be very adventurous.
We used to get train from London bridge to tunbridge wells. Pint there, then route at bulls hollow, pint, walk to happy valley, route, pint on walk to to high rocks annex, pint, route at high rocks continuation, pint, route at high rocks (no paying, that's cheating and immoral)...
Continue round area, poncing lifts where necessary.
Bowles can then be very adventurous. Depending on what order you arrive there.
bowles can be very adventurous.
We used to get train from London bridge to tunbridge wells. Pint there, then route at bulls hollow, pint, walk to happy valley, route, pint on walk to to high rocks annex, pint, route at high rocks continuation, pint, route at high rocks (no paying, that's cheating and immoral)...
Continue round area, poncing lifts where necessary.
Bowles can then be very adventurous. Depending on what order you arrive there.
In reply to moraldecay: Has to be Windgather in the Peak, Bowles in the SE, and Shepherds Crag in the Lakes. There is no such thing as an unadventurous crag in Scotland, unless it's Dumbarton Rock or That other place that begins with D thats by the road, is it Dunkeld? Of course any crag is as adventurous as you want to make it.
In reply to The Ivanator: Any number of sport crags...
I couldn't name any though as I've never bothered to find them.
I couldn't name any though as I've never bothered to find them.
In reply to Ava Adore:
I think Baslow is rather adventurous actually. In summer it can hard to negotiate the bottom of the crag due to bracken and I associate the crag most with routes around HVS that have no gear and cartwheeling-down-the-hill landings at best. I have shat myself more than once at Baslow.
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
> Baslow in the Peak
>
> Baslow in the Peak
I think Baslow is rather adventurous actually. In summer it can hard to negotiate the bottom of the crag due to bracken and I associate the crag most with routes around HVS that have no gear and cartwheeling-down-the-hill landings at best. I have shat myself more than once at Baslow.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
I have shat myself more than once at Baslow.
Have you climbed at the roaches recently per chance?
> (In reply to Ava Adore)
I have shat myself more than once at Baslow.
Have you climbed at the roaches recently per chance?
In reply to moraldecay: That's not my style. I just try to ignore it, and hope that none will exit the bottom of my trouser legs. Thermals help with this, but aren't appropriate in summer.
In reply to stvredmond: Teehee.
In reply to The Ivanator: +1 for Bowles. At least the 'walk in' to Harrison's is muddy...
In reply to Mike_Watson_99:
Well the OP did say 'short walk in with no abseiling' so it might qualify. But there are also the steps to negociate so maybe that disqualifies Logie Head!
> (In reply to pamph)
> [...]
> Its a bit of a walk to get to Logie Head. And then theres the ticks and the creepy pet cemetery you have to walk past.
> [...]
> Its a bit of a walk to get to Logie Head. And then theres the ticks and the creepy pet cemetery you have to walk past.
Well the OP did say 'short walk in with no abseiling' so it might qualify. But there are also the steps to negociate so maybe that disqualifies Logie Head!
In reply to Al Evans:
Nonsense.
> (In reply to moraldecay) There is no such thing as an unadventurous crag in Scotland
Nonsense.
In reply to Al Evans:
I agree with Windgather. Least adventurous crag I've ever been to. In Wales I'd nominate Dali's Hole sport climbing or Porth Clais in North Pembroke.
I agree with Windgather. Least adventurous crag I've ever been to. In Wales I'd nominate Dali's Hole sport climbing or Porth Clais in North Pembroke.
In reply to climbingpixie:
Don't agree with Porth Clais, you have to ab in and with a big sea running and the tide coming in it can be quite scarey.
> (In reply to Al Evans)
>
> I agree with Windgather. Least adventurous crag I've ever been to. In Wales I'd nominate Dali's Hole sport climbing or Porth Clais in North Pembroke.
>
> I agree with Windgather. Least adventurous crag I've ever been to. In Wales I'd nominate Dali's Hole sport climbing or Porth Clais in North Pembroke.
Don't agree with Porth Clais, you have to ab in and with a big sea running and the tide coming in it can be quite scarey.
In reply to earlsdonwhu:
I agree. I've had plenty of adventure at Sennen - waves over the crag, the blowhole (since exploded), slabs covered with slime, the descent chimney covered in slime, an abseil rope wearing through, proper jamming and stiff grading...
> (In reply to mkean) Sennen can be adventurous.... indeed I think people have been swept away byfreak waves!
I agree. I've had plenty of adventure at Sennen - waves over the crag, the blowhole (since exploded), slabs covered with slime, the descent chimney covered in slime, an abseil rope wearing through, proper jamming and stiff grading...
In reply to LJC:
+1
> (In reply to The Ivanator) +1 for Bowles. At least the 'walk in' to Harrison's is muddy...
+1
In reply to Al Evans:
I realised after I'd posted that there was more than just the bit I was thinking of. I was thinking more about the bit with Red Wall on it, where you can scramble down to the bottom. It's certainly the friendliest sea cliff I've ever been to.
I realised after I'd posted that there was more than just the bit I was thinking of. I was thinking more about the bit with Red Wall on it, where you can scramble down to the bottom. It's certainly the friendliest sea cliff I've ever been to.
In reply to The Ivanator: Windgather and Harborough Rocks
In reply to The Ivanator: I think I need a definition of adventurous but bowles seems an odd choice. Of the op s five criteria it satisfies 3 but I'm not sure about reliable rock and there is no gear (well a handful of ancient bolts)
In reply to highaltitudebarista:
+1
And Southern Sandstone because although technically challenging, it's incredibly safe being all top roping (ie non adventurous)
> (In reply to The Ivanator) Any indoor wall.
+1
And Southern Sandstone because although technically challenging, it's incredibly safe being all top roping (ie non adventurous)
In reply to Trangia:
I should add though that if you are so inclined you can make it very adventurous by soloing
> (In reply to Mr. K)
> [...]
>
> +1
>
> And Southern Sandstone because although technically challenging, it's incredibly safe being all top roping (ie non adventurous)
> [...]
>
> +1
>
> And Southern Sandstone because although technically challenging, it's incredibly safe being all top roping (ie non adventurous)
I should add though that if you are so inclined you can make it very adventurous by soloing
In reply to Trangia: you can choose to toprope ( I usually do) but that's true of most places.
In reply to The Ivanator:
No mention of Burbage North yet. The 20ft wall is full of very short easy routes and is 1 minute from the car.
No mention of Burbage North yet. The 20ft wall is full of very short easy routes and is 1 minute from the car.
In reply to The Ivanator:
Anything on grit - come-on don't kid yourselves otherwise!
Any sport route crags - assuming properly bolted and the rock reliable
Overall, Bowles Rocks must be the winner though.
Anything on grit - come-on don't kid yourselves otherwise!
Any sport route crags - assuming properly bolted and the rock reliable
Overall, Bowles Rocks must be the winner though.
In reply to i.munro:
Not really - most places are too long to top rope.
> (In reply to Trangia) you can choose to toprope ( I usually do) but that's true of most places.
Not really - most places are too long to top rope.
In reply to Trangia: Making something hazardous doesn't make it adventurous. I could eat a packet of uncooked, out of date, economy burgers. Hazardous, but hardly adventurous.
In reply to LJC:
I agree, but top roping compared to soloing or leading is hardly adventurous is it?
> (In reply to Trangia) Making something hazardous doesn't make it adventurous. I could eat a packet of uncooked, out of date, economy burgers. Hazardous, but hardly adventurous.
I agree, but top roping compared to soloing or leading is hardly adventurous is it?
In reply to Hammy:
...and it has baby-changing facilities, and a garden shop! I once saw aa climber there with baby + grandparents - all happy!!
Seems not to rain when wet nearby too.
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
> I propose Benny Beg - fits all the criteria!
> I propose Benny Beg - fits all the criteria!
...and it has baby-changing facilities, and a garden shop! I once saw aa climber there with baby + grandparents - all happy!!
Seems not to rain when wet nearby too.
In reply to The Ivanator: Witches Quarry, belay from the comfort of your own car. A leader fall could make this interesting though.
In reply to Mark Collins:
search "toprope tough guys" on youtube, cant post a link as I'm in China atm
> (In reply to The Ivanator) Witches Quarry, belay from the comfort of your own car. A leader fall could make this interesting though.
search "toprope tough guys" on youtube, cant post a link as I'm in China atm
In reply to climbingpixie: Just to remind you about Porth Clais
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=190451
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=190451
In reply to Al Evans: PS, Red Wall is just to the right
In reply to The Ivanator:
Surely tramadol deserves a mention if we're talking trad cliffs only. 5ft from a main road, barn with bunkbeds, indoor wall, cafe, toilets, washrooms, rafters to hang rope and sock wrestle from?
I guess it is mostly multipitch, in its defence?
Surely tramadol deserves a mention if we're talking trad cliffs only. 5ft from a main road, barn with bunkbeds, indoor wall, cafe, toilets, washrooms, rafters to hang rope and sock wrestle from?
I guess it is mostly multipitch, in its defence?
In reply to The Ivanator: Coire an t'Sneachda, the Stanage Edge for winter climbers.
In reply to andic: Ah yes, a convertible sorts out any leader falls nicely. Thanks.
In reply to The Ivanator: It can only be castle inn quarry .. Tarmac 2ft from the rock, bolts and a pub 100ft away.
In reply to The Ivanator:
Woodhouse scar - open the car door, cross the pavement, nip over a low wall and you are at the top of the crag. Beautiful views of the Halifax Building Society too
Woodhouse scar - open the car door, cross the pavement, nip over a low wall and you are at the top of the crag. Beautiful views of the Halifax Building Society too
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