In reply to Darkskys:
> (In reply to Paul035) great video isn't it...you get a proper feel for it and especially it's length when they have to go through the night
Yeehh, but we did the Direct route on the Douglas boulder in Alpine conditions, I dropped my crampons and had to go down 200m for them, cleaned a rope off a route to the left and then had to call mountain rescue for a friend on Tower Scoop and we still topped out in good time for a great bum slide down No 4 (cracking day.)
It's not one upmanship, but faff avoidance; on the ridge we moved together until the eastern traverse, pitched til the end of tower gap then moved together again. Pitch what you want, but if there is no gear between you and the belay, you thought it fine and are confident to continue, tell them to strip the belay and start climbing!