In reply to seankenny:
> (In reply to davo)
>
> I'm trying to get stronger at the moment, so doing plenty of short, intense sessions. I find that despite only climbing for between one and two hours, I'm pretty spent afterwards and sore the next day. This is fine, in fact I just turned 40 so expect it's pretty much par for the course.
>
> But I'm really aware that I'm not managing to do any PE-type work, even tho I know some of it takes a long time to train effectively (as per Dave Binney's articles). Ideally, I'd like to be doing some PE work at the end of a bouldering session, but tbh I'm pretty tired already. And I can only just about manage a day on/day off routine as it is, without getting injured. If my fingers are feeling tweaky then I'll take more days for sure. Does doing PE work reduce the intensity which you boulder at, or mean you have longer to recover?
Hi Sean
I think someone has already answered your question but will give my two penneth anyway.
I can only speak for myself and what I do really so I am sure that if you spoke to a pro they may tell you something different. I have read those articles by Dave Binney and a load of others as well.
Generally when I say that I boulder/campus or deadhange in a sesssion these are not very long at all and leave lots of time to do circuits. For example a typical session might look something like the following:
Warm up: 20 mins or so, gently increasing difficulty of boulder problems attempted.
Deadhangs: 6 to 7 sec hangs slowly increasing in difficulty (probably about 12 hangs in total and done over 15 mins)
Campus: 3 or 4 attempts at something hard for me on each arm (10 mins?)
Boulder: 20 mins at a hard project style problem on a board. Probably only about 10 -12 actual attempts as each move may well be pretty tough for me.
Circuits: 3 attempts at a 20 move circuit with 15 mins in between each attempt (maybe only 10 min rest if I get bored)
As I said the above is not based on lots of studies or evidence just from trying lots of different methods, reading a fair bit and a lot of failure!
The first strength part takes about an hour including warm-up and leaves an hour for circuits. I generally vary the length of the circuits every session. for example one day I do short intense circuits, other days I do medium length (30 ish moves) and other days I either do routes or longer 40 - 50 move circuits. Every so often (once evry 2 weeks ish) I do some longer endurance style work.
In general my main goal is to increase finger strength slowly and safely by doing lots of little sessions and keep maintaining if not slightly increasing my power endurance. As I am not off to Spain any time soon I am just keeping the longer endurance ticking over.
I think someone below mentions not to combine sessions as you will lower the results from each. This is probably true if you are a pro who can do double sessions a day eg strength in morning and then PE in afternoon but for most people I can't see this working and I think it is better to accept a bit of a compromise.
As an aside I also am 40 ( well a couple of days away!) and yes I do feel those aches and pains etc but I reckon it is still possible to keep making good gains as you get older as long as you go slowly and build things up.
Anyway, good luck and hope some of the above helps.
As I said it really is only my opinion and I am sure that there are more efficient ways.
Dave