/ Wintours Leap - an early season venue?
The following are in my wishlist there.
How is it as a Feb/Mar venue? Is it getting much sun? How many days to dry? Any of the to-do list to be avoided this side of Spring-proper?
Papillon E2 5b *
Flyover E3 6a **
Never Say Die E2 5c *
Kangaroo Wall E2 6a ***
Big Fly Direct E1 5a ***
Valley Forge E2 5c *
Age of Enlightenment E1 5b *
The last time I went there in very wet conditions, I was on Fly Wall. Papillon would have been dry but the other two on your list had damp streaks. That was November?
Bear in mind that only North Wall really gets the sun before lunch.
Btw, Papillon is fun although the crux is a lot easier if you can reach (I could, my missus couldn't) from the better holds. I also did the E3 left of Freedom, that's quite fun, some nice moves.
I think AJM is being pessimistic about North wall, it faces WSW (unlike most of the rest of the crag which faces WNW) so is one of the quicker walls to dry. But I wouldn't rush to climb there at this time of year anyway. I mean, er, go right ahead and start removing choss for my mid summer trip ;-)
The left end of fly wall is fairly quick drying as well (Papillon). The right end is slower to dry out (Big fly direct). Flyover is in between the two.
I made no comment about dryness on North Wall! As I said, I was on Fly Wall, hence my comments were limited to the three routes he mentioned there.
I must get back to Wintours more this year. So much to do...
The comments about loose rock should not go under estimated though. It's been a very wet winter.
In regards to the loose rock, I was there about three weeks ago for a wander and a chunk (the size of a phone box or two) has fallen off the far right of the GO wall. I don't think any routes are affected, just be sure to keep your lid on at the bottom of the crag.
Wintours is climbable all year round. Rockfall is possible all year round!
Wintours can be great this time of year. As said, north wall gets most Sun, but most route can be ok and seepage isn't a big problem. Definitely be wary of loose rock tho. Shorn cliff and wyndcliffe are viable too, wyndcliffe catches lots of Sun.
At North wall again on saturday, in the sun from 10am onwards, climbed in just a pair of jeans and a long sleeve tshirt. Some loose stuff but nothing more than wye valley normal amounts.~
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