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Topic - Fingerboard training regime advice/suggestions please

geebus - on 03 Feb 2013
I've been googling, searching on here etc and just ended up more confused if anything as there's so much different information out there!

Looking for recommendations for a finger board training plan to improve my finger strength.
Also interested in thoughts on how regularly to do it, when considering climbing and gym and whether to do it on non-climbing days - generally prefer to make use of the time at the wall to climb, so it'd be at home after.

I plan to make my own 'board at home as I've got loads of wood and a variety of climbing holds.

I've been bouldering for about six months now. Generally up to around a V3/V4 kind of level, but find myself really lacking on holds that require decent finger strength - be it 2/3 finger pockets or needing a good pinch.
If the holds are larger I'm generally ok - it's rare that it's my biceps that are lacking.
I appreciate that general technique does help too - but I think this mostly isn't a problem - as even following good people giving me advice on technique, it's the fingers that are limiting.

After having lost weight, now put some back on which needs to come off again (about a stone and a half from two months ago, so a decent difference) which will help.

I generally do 3x weight lifting a week (just 'the big three'), go bouldering 3x a week, but might cut that back to 2, as I'm finding there's less problems at my local place left that I have a hope of doing.

A last thought - I presume dead hanging will improve pinching some, but should I try and set up some pinch-specific holds to practice with too?
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