/ NEWS: Trad M10 - World's Hardest Trad Mixed Route?

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UKC News - on 05 Feb 2013
Senza Piombo Montage, 4 kbIn this report by Rock and Ice Magazine, Chris Parker gives us the low down on a new mixed route in the Dolomites.

Is an M10 route the hardest trad mixed route in the world? Do we have any harder or as hard lines in Scotland? Interestingly the Austrians left not only the bolts, but also the pegs behind for this route.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67792

Jamie B - on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News:

> Is an M10 route the hardest trad mixed route in the world? Do we have any harder or as hard lines in Scotland?

Impossible to say, as you're not comparing like with like. This is hugely impressive, but is definitively continental, ie dry-tooling steep limestone to access hanging ice-formations, just without the bolts.

Harder than on-sighting The Hurting in a blizzard, with slopey ledges and hooks that need to be cleared, gear that may not hold and a fall that may not be survivable? Who can say..
mkean - on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News:
I thought Mission Impossible was M11 and protected by pegs, does that count?
Ramon Marin - on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to mkean:

Mission IMpossible and Flying Circus don't count as there's fixed pro gear. Not sure about the comment about the Hurting, all visiting continental climbers in scotland don't seem to sweat too much, i.e Dani Arnold in The Hurting or Ueli steck in The Secret or Ines Papert. I think that if that Euro trad M10 was covered in rime and so on would probably get a harder grade equally as it happend in Scotland, so it all balances out at the end.
frost - on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News: Surely Anubis is as hard as this?
AlbertL - on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News:
Hi folks,
to clear things a bit up: I never said, that "Senza piombo" would be the hardest trad route - that is a construct of rock&ice. As you can see on my website, I said it is the first M10 what I know, that has been climbed clean, not more...
I have the full respect for all the hard Scottish climbs and I would see it as follows. As we did not have "white" conditions on the climb and probably there never will be on that face - this climb cannot be compared to any Scottish climb. It is "continental" as Jamie wrote, with kind of safe protection and therefore different. I would not be happy if anyone would repeat the line and grade it in a Scottish grade and than compare it to some of the Scottish climbs. It would just be wrong.
flaneur - on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to AlbertL:

The headline and article were written using the UKC controversy generator machine. The UKC CGM demands inclusion of "Bolts", "Hardest in the world" and "Plucky Brits. just as good as devious Continentals" into any article whatever the facts of the matter.

UKC must be disappointed at the number of posts generated despite their best efforts.
Michael Gordon - on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Very interesting.

As said above it's impossible to say whether this is harder or easier than the likes of Anubis or that Kintail roof without someone climbing and comparing them.
In reply to AlbertL: Congratulations Albert - the climb looks spectacular and wonderful climbing, regardless of grade! And the bit about falling off and ripping the cams out makes it sound pretty terrifying too!

Climbing wouldn't be as fun if you didn't get different types of routes in different places. Vive la différence! etc. :)
Ben Briggs - on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to AlbertL: Well done on a very impressive route in great style, not sure why people are trying to compare it to Scottish climbing as i don't see any comparison.
zero six - on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Fight fight fight.

It's got a very long approach for a Brit - Manchester to Milan, hire car and then the walk in, that should up this new unspoken Scottish commitment grade a bit :)

Ukc/Albert - let me google that for you.... Fecalator was graded M10 and it's trad. I discovered that in, oh, roughly 8 seconds.
Jamie B - on 05 Feb 2013
In reply to AlbertL:

Good to see a strong climber with a well-balanced view! Congratulations again on the route.
Scarab - on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Nice on Albert!
Milesy - on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to flaneur:
>the UKC controversy generator machine.

:D
Timmd on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to flaneur:
> (In reply to AlbertL)
>
> The headline and article were written using the UKC controversy generator machine. The UKC CGM demands inclusion of "Bolts", "Hardest in the world" and "Plucky Brits. just as good as devious Continentals" into any article whatever the facts of the matter.
>
> UKC must be disappointed at the number of posts generated despite their best efforts.

I agree, Rock and Ice and UKC add some things in to spark debate/intrigue, and poor Albert feels he has to defend himself. (:-))
iksander on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News: Outstanding and brave effort, well done Albert!
ads.ukclimbing.com
Robert Durran - on 06 Feb 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> As said above it's impossible to say whether this is harder or easier than the likes of Anubis.

Anubis is obviously harder; you can tell by just looking at it from the door of the CIC and comparing it with the photos of this dastardly continental dry-tooling abomination.

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