/ NEWS: Trad M10 - World's Hardest Trad Mixed Route?
Is an M10 route the hardest trad mixed route in the world? Do we have any harder or as hard lines in Scotland? Interestingly the Austrians left not only the bolts, but also the pegs behind for this route.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67792
Impossible to say, as you're not comparing like with like. This is hugely impressive, but is definitively continental, ie dry-tooling steep limestone to access hanging ice-formations, just without the bolts.
Harder than on-sighting The Hurting in a blizzard, with slopey ledges and hooks that need to be cleared, gear that may not hold and a fall that may not be survivable? Who can say..
I thought Mission Impossible was M11 and protected by pegs, does that count?
Mission IMpossible and Flying Circus don't count as there's fixed pro gear. Not sure about the comment about the Hurting, all visiting continental climbers in scotland don't seem to sweat too much, i.e Dani Arnold in The Hurting or Ueli steck in The Secret or Ines Papert. I think that if that Euro trad M10 was covered in rime and so on would probably get a harder grade equally as it happend in Scotland, so it all balances out at the end.
to clear things a bit up: I never said, that "Senza piombo" would be the hardest trad route - that is a construct of rock&ice. As you can see on my website, I said it is the first M10 what I know, that has been climbed clean, not more...
I have the full respect for all the hard Scottish climbs and I would see it as follows. As we did not have "white" conditions on the climb and probably there never will be on that face - this climb cannot be compared to any Scottish climb. It is "continental" as Jamie wrote, with kind of safe protection and therefore different. I would not be happy if anyone would repeat the line and grade it in a Scottish grade and than compare it to some of the Scottish climbs. It would just be wrong.
The headline and article were written using the UKC controversy generator machine. The UKC CGM demands inclusion of "Bolts", "Hardest in the world" and "Plucky Brits. just as good as devious Continentals" into any article whatever the facts of the matter.
UKC must be disappointed at the number of posts generated despite their best efforts.
As said above it's impossible to say whether this is harder or easier than the likes of Anubis or that Kintail roof without someone climbing and comparing them.
Climbing wouldn't be as fun if you didn't get different types of routes in different places. Vive la différence! etc. :)
Fight fight fight.
It's got a very long approach for a Brit - Manchester to Milan, hire car and then the walk in, that should up this new unspoken Scottish commitment grade a bit :)
Ukc/Albert - let me google that for you.... Fecalator was graded M10 and it's trad. I discovered that in, oh, roughly 8 seconds.
Good to see a strong climber with a well-balanced view! Congratulations again on the route.
Nice on Albert!
>the UKC controversy generator machine.
> The headline and article were written using the UKC controversy generator machine. The UKC CGM demands inclusion of "Bolts", "Hardest in the world" and "Plucky Brits. just as good as devious Continentals" into any article whatever the facts of the matter.
> UKC must be disappointed at the number of posts generated despite their best efforts.
I agree, Rock and Ice and UKC add some things in to spark debate/intrigue, and poor Albert feels he has to defend himself. (:-))
> As said above it's impossible to say whether this is harder or easier than the likes of Anubis.
Anubis is obviously harder; you can tell by just looking at it from the door of the CIC and comparing it with the photos of this dastardly continental dry-tooling abomination.
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