In reply to skirton:
I remember the bottom straight off belay being ice and the crux of the route, a couple of screws should see you okay here. I think I used one or two on the belay and one on the pitch, it eases off after the initial steep ice. We had plenty of ice for the bottom pitch, 3-5m of ice and above that I can't recall placing a screw. I haven't done the icefall finish. We had a beautiful day and I'm still hacked off that I forgot my camera that day.