/ taxus conditions?
bump - does anyone have any idea what kind of conditions Taxus is in?
What is bump????
he fell off
So does anyone have any information on conditions in the North-East corrie please? Or would care to give me an educated guess as to conditions there?
I remember the bottom straight off belay being ice and the crux of the route, a couple of screws should see you okay here. I think I used one or two on the belay and one on the pitch, it eases off after the initial steep ice. We had plenty of ice for the bottom pitch, 3-5m of ice and above that I can't recall placing a screw. I haven't done the icefall finish. We had a beautiful day and I'm still hacked off that I forgot my camera that day.
It's as well protected as most easy gullies, ie not very! The rock is pretty crappy and you have to work a bit to get anything in it, even for belays. The ice steps are not sustained and I wouldn't expect to belay on screws, so 2/3 is probably OK. I'd also take pegs and some turf gear.
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