/ taxus conditions?

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mijrob - on 06 Feb 2013
I see Taxus was climbed today, what kind of nick was it in?
Thanks.
mijrob - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to mijrob:

bump - does anyone have any idea what kind of conditions Taxus is in?
mark turnbull - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to mijrob:
What is bump????
Simon Caldwell - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to mark turnbull:

he fell off
mijrob - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to Toreador:

nice...

So does anyone have any information on conditions in the North-East corrie please? Or would care to give me an educated guess as to conditions there?

Thanks.
Finn Curry - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to mijrob: I climbed it yesterday, it was in great nick, good ice and went up the direct finish which was very fun. Enjoy.
michaelb1 - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to mijrob: Was on taxus on Saturday. There was lots of good neve in the gully for climbing, but an area of soft snow also below the junction. The mixed routes looked good and were receiving plenty of traffic. There is probably a lot more snow now so keep an eye on the avalanche forecast.
akhughes - on 09 Feb 2013
In reply to mijrob: was in the core yesterday and it was all good. Taxes looking splendid!
skirton - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to mijrob: thinking of doing taxus sometime soon. Can anyone tell me how well protected it is? Is it a route that gets filed with lots of ice? I've only got two ice screws (maybe 3). Will that be enough? I presume I would need a couple more if considering the icefall finish.
drmarten on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to skirton:
I remember the bottom straight off belay being ice and the crux of the route, a couple of screws should see you okay here. I think I used one or two on the belay and one on the pitch, it eases off after the initial steep ice. We had plenty of ice for the bottom pitch, 3-5m of ice and above that I can't recall placing a screw. I haven't done the icefall finish. We had a beautiful day and I'm still hacked off that I forgot my camera that day.
andrew ogilvie - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to skirton: It depends entirely on conditions...done it twice first the original route -banked out probably only grade II on neve - second time thinnish and snowy in the gully and thinnish and turfy on the direct finish.Original finish much less demandingin my recollection so leaves you an option if you're not keen on the icefall. If it is icy, though, you might want two screws for the belay ...so it wouldn't do any harm to have a couple more. Take care and watch the approach slopes for avalanche conditions.
Jamie B - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to skirton:

It's as well protected as most easy gullies, ie not very! The rock is pretty crappy and you have to work a bit to get anything in it, even for belays. The ice steps are not sustained and I wouldn't expect to belay on screws, so 2/3 is probably OK. I'd also take pegs and some turf gear.

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