/ Longish ice climbs near Chamonix?

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rockstoned on 06 Feb 2013
For next week my partner and I are looking for long-ish ice routes at WI3/4 max close to Chamonix, where we have accommodation.

Anyone have any tips on where to go and conditions? I'm starting to look at Cogne, seems like the weather there is better than both Switzerland and France

Thanks in advance!
Petarghh - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to rockstoned: There's loads, the ones I know are mainly at altitude though. "la cremerie" I think near argentiere might be worth a look. also i think that the mer de glace/argentiere glacier have routes on either side, not sure of the grades though.
deepstar - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to rockstoned:I climbed at "La Cremerie" late last month and all the routes were in good condition,not what I would describe as long-ish though.You could catch the 11 or 13 bus from Chamonix to Grand Montets and walk up to the Heliport,this will take about 40 minutes.Martin.
deepstar - on 07 Feb 2013
razzorbuzz - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to rockstoned: Hey, I was out in Chamonix end of Jan and we head to Cogne for the day. Def has my vote the Lillaz Waterfalls are a stunning location & a great day out. We did around 8 pitches in total with grades around WI3+. If you get a chance you wont regret it, just remember that the Mt Blanc Tunnel isn't cheap.
Frank4short - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to rockstoned: There are some longer icefalls that don't, quite, require leaving the valley in Col du Montet.
rockstoned on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to Frank4short: Cool, do you have any more info or links?
rockstoned on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to razzorbuzz: Lillaz is perfect. Yeah, since we're staying in Chamonix and have a van the TMB charges would be 65 a pop, for a few days of climbing that's going to work out expensive. Would think about it if conditions aren't good in Cham, thanks for the suggestion mate.
rockstoned on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to Petarghh: I think you need skis or snow shoes to reach the argentiere routes with a fairly longish approach? I guess we could hire snow shoes. And about the grades, I don't remember anything less than WI4 there
rockstoned on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to deepstar: will check out La Cremerie, thanks mate
razzorbuzz - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to rockstoned: No Worries, we had planned on climbing in Cham but there was just way to much snow (not something i'd normally say)so ended up changing plans the night before, but yer worst case scenario its not something you'll regret if you have no other choice even taking into account the cost, stunning venue :)
Frank4short - on 07 Feb 2013
In reply to rockstoned: My guide dissapeared years ago so can't give direct info but here's what I found with a quick google.

http://blog.mountain-spirit-guides.com/?p=1274 about half way down the page, though it has some other stuff that may be of interest too
RichardB on 07 Feb 2013
This guidebook (can't remember if you need vol 1 or 2) is really good:

http://www.alplib.com/cascades-de-glace-du-mont-blanc-au-lemantome-val-montjoie-val-darly-bornes-ara...

There is some good easy(ish) stuff at places like Les Contamines, about 45 min away. The guide is available at loads of places in Chamonix like Snells or the book shop opposite.
David Rose - on 08 Feb 2013
In reply to rockstoned: Cogne is fantastic for this kind of thing. Acheronte is a superb quite long route of about WI3/4. Lillaz is ok but a bit busy. There are many others.
jon on 08 Feb 2013
In reply to rockstoned:

If you buy ticket for ten passages through the tunnel, it costs 121. Therefore 12 each way. You would easily be able to sell it as it lasts for two years and isn't restricted to just one car. 20 passage tickets are also available at 170...
deepstar - on 08 Feb 2013
In reply to jon:Hello Jon,my Sister in Law has one of these multi pass tickets which she is happy to let me use but would it be applicable on my T4 van? Martin.
rockstoned on 08 Feb 2013
In reply to jon: thanks, will definitely look into that.
jon on 08 Feb 2013
In reply to deepstar:

We used to take our T4 through on that ticket. There are two classes of light vehicles - class 1 up to 2m high, and class 2 over 2m. The ticket is for class 1. However, the Italian autoroutes are more expensive for the van than a car - they have different definitions, I think. Also, as I remember, the Grand St Bernard tunnel costs more for a van.
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deepstar - on 08 Feb 2013
In reply to jon: Cheers Jon.

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