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Topic - Getting fit to climb again

balmybaldwin - on 07 Feb 2013
So about 2 years ago, I was cart off to the hospital in an ambulance with a suspect heart attack (it wasn't) and was put on compulsory rest and no physical activity for 6months while the doctors tested me, and then declared me safe.

Before this happenned I was climbing regularly (leading up to 7a), but not doing much other sport other than hill walking etc. I was probably at the fittest I've been for climbing, and following a 4 hour session, would not have too much ache in the morning (probably not pushing myself enough).

6 Months sitting on the sofa meant that when I starting climbing afte the all clear, I was severly demotivated by not being able to come close to my previous level. As a result I decide to set a challenge to get fit for (LEJOG) which meant getting out on the bike and improving CV fitness. This helped bring my weight down a bit.

As of December I started going to the wall again on a weekly basis, doing a short session mainly traversing and bouldering slowly trying to buid up some strength and endurance in my fingers. In Jan I upped the intensity and started twice a week, with a bouldery session and a roped session

I am seeing rapid improvements, and climbed a 6c route for the first time since getting back to the wall last week, although I still struggle to maintain this sort of level for more than a couple of climbs, so it seems I am lacking endurance.

Anyone else gone through this, and how did you focus on certain aspects of your climbing to get yourself back quicker?

At the moment I see my weaknesses as:
Endurance
Core Strength
Finger Strength (Although improving rapidly)
Route reading (although I think this is related to not being able to do moves I once could)

ANy suggestions on structured sessions would be good.

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