/ NEW ARTICLE: Ice climbing in Setesdal, Norway

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UKC Articles - on 08 Feb 2013
James Cowley on the first ascent of Hydro Flossin' (WI3) on the highway 45, 3 kbWith cheap flights, easy access and reliable ice conditions, Norway's Setesdal valley is an ideal alternative to Rjukan for climbers looking for something a little bit different this winter.

In this superb article Steve Broadbent lifts the lid on one of Norway's best kept secrets...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5134

Zoomer - on 08 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC Articles:Huge amount of new routing carried out by the British Army Outward Bound Centre in the 70/80s in the Setesdal from their base in Evje. I was there last week, ski touring, and had a guided tour of icefalls by an ex instructor who lives and works in the Setesdal. Check out Destination-Setesdal. I wonder how many routes have been claimed as FA's when they were done in dachstiens and non tech tools over 20/30 years ago?
gi - on 08 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC Articles:

Awesome article!

I spent 10 months in the Setesdal valley living and working about an half an hour south of Bygland, I arrived in late January and it was a particularly cold year with -20 being not uncommon on blue sky days but the ice climbing was unbelievable, we just drove around looking at seemingly endless perfect ice falls and no one climbing them.

Without wanting to do any kind of disservice to Geoff's guidebook the 150 climbs covered probably isn't half of whats lurking in the Setesdal and surrounding area.. When you're there it really does seem like it could be endless.

Another option for days off is ski touring and cross country, down further south near Evje there is something like 200+ km of groomed trails that are free to use.

And the great thing about the Setesdal is that during the summer it has amazing multi pitch trad, sport and bouldering.. if you had the time and energy you could go out and do 100's of low and mid grade trad first accents without much cleaning needed at all.

Gi
HeMa on 08 Feb 2013
In reply to Zoomer:
> I wonder how many routes have been claimed as FA's when they were done in dachstiens and non tech tools over 20/30 years ago?

Well... The Norwegians them selves have a long lasting tradition of climbing something (hard) and not tellin' anyone about it.

This has been the case in northern Norway for ages... pretty much anything reasonably close to a road has been climbed ages ago.. Up to WI5 or WI6'ish.

It doesn't matter though, as most of them don't really care that much. It's all about the climbing, not names on topos.
GrendeI on 08 Feb 2013
In reply to HeMa:
> (In reply to Zoomer)
> [...]
>
> Well... The Norwegians them selves have a long lasting tradition of climbing something (hard) and not tellin' anyone about it.

They've been pretty loud recently... or it could just be the Trønders ;)
Eärendel F. - on 09 Feb 2013
In reply to HeMa: I agree all the way. It is pretty suprising how quiet and humble most of the norwegian climbing community is. I am positive the routes have been climbed in the past if they are roadside. Just because u dont see someone doesnt mean it hasnt been climbed.
skarabrae - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to Eärendel F.: excellent venue, just got back from 9 day trip there last night, as others have said, great routes, great skiing (xc, nordic tour & piste) had every route to ourselves, beats over-crowded rjukan!!
skarabrae - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to skarabrae: forgoy to mention. thanks to geoff hornby & the team at oxford alpine club for a great guide book & all the advice they gave in our trip.
thanks guys, davey.
Timmd on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC Articles:Ice climbing overseas with cheap flights? Great, just what we need with climate change.

Climbers are a bunch of nature lovers huh?

What next, a guide to indoor ice climbing venues once it's too warm outside?
Simon Caldwell - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC Articles:
"reliable ice conditions" isn't the message I got from the Climb Setesdal website. "2012 was warmer but had a single hard frost period in early February"

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