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Topic - Honcho peg

paul mitchell - on 09 Feb 2013
I have added a new peg to Honcho at New Mills Torrs.
This was after consulting the first ascensionist,Nick Colton,who gave the go ahead.Those who wish to do the route in conditions similar to Nick would naturally not use a bouldering mat to work the moves to the first peg.The first peg is ancient and some people are using it as the sole runner and taking big falls on it,despite cams over to the right.One day it will rip out;thus my addition.
Anyone is welcome to replace the red tat with a darker colour one.All of two minutes work.
I added to several of the pegs at the Torrs,in company with Martin Kocsis(Frank the Husky).Notably Grim Reaper and the Arete,as well as Bionics Wall.

Martin had placed a bolt lower off above Bionics Wall,to save wear on the tree lower off.The bolts were in a shattered block;pretty unsafe.

Along with Paul Rhodes I disabled the bolt lower off and handed Martin back the hangers.I replaced them with 30 worth of hexes and slings.

I had previously told Martin that I would not tolerate bolts on the crag at the Torrs,as I fear that people will retrobolt my harder routes there.There is no excuse for bolt lower offs at the Torrs,where there are ample piton placements and trees to lower off.

I understand that Martin was just trying to help,but reckon his action was misguided,in this instance by a friend who wanted to preserve the tree at the expense of the rock.Climbing can be a dangerous pastime.Let's be judicious about how safe we make it.


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