/ My Finger Injuries And Rehab
This is the first week I have started being proactive. I thought by just resting my fingers for a week would be the best option. I have started taking 2 600mg ibuprofen tablets in the morning and in the evening before I go to sleep to try and reduce inflammation but I haven't seen any noticeable result yet. I have also started cold and warm water baths that Dave McLeod mentions on his blog. This seems to help the pain and reduce the stiffness in the morning. I am also doing finger rolls with 3/4 body weight on a campus rung just to get the finger working and get some blood flowing. I have also taken the opportunity to do more conditioning training down at my local climbing centre to keep active and maintain psyche levels.
With 1200mg of ibuprofen in the morning you could largely ignore your injury I'd imagine. Your stomach may not thankyou after a while though.
Sarcasm aside. That's alot of ibuprofen. Not being up on Dave's regime I couldn;t commment on hot and cold etc. but I 'feel' that it may be too soon and more rest could be needed. 2 weeks isn't a long time.
Good luck nonetheless.
Could you explain the hot and cold thing please?
I tried to train hard (steep board and fingerboard) open-handed but noticed that after the session it was worse so this week I have decided to dial it back and continue to boulder indoors on easier problems. for the last 2-3 sessions, I have spent them trying to tick as many problems as possible over a 1.5-2hr period - usually ends up being 25ish. I aim for problems that are easy all the way to ones that I can just about flash or slightly harder.
...oh and don't crimp anything on the offending hand.
I think that the icing/Lewis reaction that Dave is talking about might help as when you do it, your hand looks red implying more blood flow. This is why these injuries talk so long to heal as there isn't much blood flowing to your fingers. I find it difficult to get 30mins in the day where I can sit still and keep my hand in the ice water though.
What I need is a safe way of training crimps as I am weaker on this grip. Any ideas? Dave suggests climbing steep crimpey problems but I am inclined to use the beastmaker?
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