/ Font tick list...

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mataius - on 10 Feb 2013
Headed to the hallowed place in April for a couple of weeks and would like a few ideas for my tick list.

Second time I've been and will be looking around the 6's and early 7's.

Got a few ideas, but the more the merrier.

So far...

Duroxmanie
Bioéthique
L'Angle Ben's
Le Nez

Plus a few more
greg_may_ - on 10 Feb 2013
In reply to mataius:

Gotta be the classic 'Toit du Cul du Chien'

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=32013

The routes to the right on the face are pretty excellent as well :)
Fergal - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to mataius:

Not sure about the quality of Le Nez, a couple of moves at most, flashed this and was very underwhelmed.

Lapin au Canard is a good roof problem softish 7a.
Le statique 6a+ is also pretty good, another suprising flash having heard much about it's awkwardness, satisfying though.
There is a brilliant arete up near the famous Duel, 6c+ eye of the needle, or some such name?.
Hamfunk - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to mataius:

Some high 6 / low 7 recommendations:

Le Toit du Loup - 6b
Hier Encore - 6b+
Duel dans la Lune - 6c (maybe 6b+)
Little Karma - 6c
Composition de Forces - 6c
Jo' Special - 6c
Le Voie Machaud - 6c
Cortomaltese - 6c+
L'Oblique - 7a
Jet set - 7a
Retour aux Sources - 7a




JimmyKay - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to mataius:

Le Coeur at Elephant 7a
Magic Bus at Buthiers 7b
Attention Chef d'OEuvre 7a
Graviton 7a
La Baleine - 7a This is amazing.
Big Jim - 6c
El Poussah - 7a This is amazing
Satan m'Habite debout - 7a (also gets 7b from a lower start.)
NicholasHart - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to mataius:

Holey Moley 7a
Graviton 7a
mataius - on 11 Feb 2013
Nice one guys... the list grows!

peterp - on 20 Feb 2013
In reply to mataius:

Good luck on Ben's Angle ;-)

Retour aux Sources is one of my all time favourite 7a problems and Tentation just nearby is also very good and often overlooked. Duroxmanie is just a perfect boulder problem and the direct at 7a is easy at the grade. Final recommendation would be L'egoiste at Apremont - a tricky 6c+
mataius - on 25 Feb 2013
In reply to peterp:

Cheers... Yer I can see a lot of time sat around at the bottom of Ben's Angle. One can hope though.

Thanks for the suggestions, this list has a lot of stuff to fall off of.
lukehodson on 25 Feb 2013
In reply to mataius:

I don't think Angle Ben's is that bad at the grade. A lot of good suggestions above, La Baleine is amazing though quite hard. Duroxmanie a good choice. Toit du Cul de Chien is brilliant (and softish 7a). Jet Set is great.

A couple more:

El Poussif - Good but frustrating, not far from Angle Ben's
Helicoptere
Mouton a 5 pattes
Mouton a 6 pattes
Joker - Has a reputation as a sandbag
Lepreux
JimmyKay - on 26 Feb 2013
In reply to mataius:

A few to add to the list from the trip last week:

Pancras, 7a+ Mont Pivot
Bleau's Art, 7b Cuvier Rampart - really knacky one mover
Mortel transfert, 7b rocher souris - dyno
La fosse aux Ours , 7a 95.2. I really rated this problem. Really cool wall.
Test de Turing, 7a+ 95.2. Really cool slab
Gargantoit - Needs no introduction.
Oliver Twist, 7a+ Rocher Greau - Felt nails but has some really slick moves.
Osiris, 7b Les Mammouths

All very classy problems.
JimmyKay - on 26 Feb 2013
In reply to mataius:

Oh and can I just remind people that Big Jim is possibly the best 6C in the world. Claim. Must must do.
mataius - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Big Jim is on the list (and has been from the start!)

Cool list... might just be on the tough side, but you never know.
Wilbur - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to mataius:

Don't bother with jet set, total gash..

As others have said;

Duroxmanie
Retour aux sources
Tentation
L'oblique

All excellent and also see;

Duel dans la lune (near to retour and Tentation) - bloody brilliant.
Surplomb des frelons at RAS as in the topo in 'essential font...'
In reply to Wilbur:
> Don't bother with jet set, total gash..

:oD Jet Set took about 3 hours the first time I did it! I've seen it fend off 8a climbers for a while too.

Some good suggestions above.

Ah, Plus Facile! next to Lapin au Canard is pretty soft for 7a+

L'Angle Ben's is a classic but pretty nails IMO I'd give it a miss and look at some of the others.

La Joker feels impossible until you suss out the move, amazing cross-through though. Match the gaston if you really need to, but the next hold works a lot better if you cross through to it with your left hand - it makes the last move a breeze! Love it!
JimmyKay - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to topic:

Lapin Ou Canard is super soft for 7a, let alone 7a+!

I did Jet Set last Monday and actually quite liked it. La fosse aux Ours , 7a 95.2 is similar but different but with another dynamic move to the top which leaves you feeling like a hero.
In reply to JimmyKay:

I did say "Ah, Plus Facile! next to Lapin ou Canard is pretty soft for 7a+"

Agree that Lapin is pretty soft though.
jolivague - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to mataius:

Isn't Cul de Chien banned now due to a crack in the pedestal?

La Balafre is worth a look just for the top out, and Science Friction just behind it is a fairly low grade but superb.

Helicoptre for the fun of it

If memory serves (bit hazy) black number 14 at Elephant is fantastic and there's loads of good 6s and 7s around the place. Check out Dame Jouane just to wonder how it can ever be called a bouldering problem but the area might be very green and the landings aren't great.
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lukehodson on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to jolivague:

The crack at cul de chien is on the base of the bilboquet boulder (the one that looks like a dog), this is a different boulder to the toit du cul de chien.

Jet set is ace.

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