/ Cuillin update
Ridge- South facing aspects were just stripped (not too badly) by the thaws so rock exposed but under a layer of powder on Saturday 9th. Also low points stripped then powdered well. Thaw yesterday & refreeze today will have helped but not romping conditions. Traverse possible for strong teams if cold predicted continues & winds stay low.
Routes- Low-grade gullies well banked & should be A1 with chilling this week. Mixed routes not ideal snow but very wintry; needs more wind or hard frost to cement chockstones & old snow.
Lots of ice in place not well cemented Sat/Sun but hopefully excellent with predicted cold. Gingini icicle complete & Icicle factory filling. Lower ice stripped thin.
Old snow slopes will be increasingly serious as they harden so concentration will be needed on even the easiest routes.
We did South Buttress Gully on Sunday. The snow and ice varied in quality and the ice on the steep bits was a little bit hollow but it was a very nice and atmospheric route and was pretty banked out. The last narrowing over the final chockstone was great.
Do you have any idea how thick the Gingini icicle is? Wondering if it would hold up for an ascent tomorrow. We're planning on heading back to Bla Bheinn but could be tempted by the ice.
Escape from Colditz looking like it could be some fun later this week at some point, how many screws do you need for it ?
Heading out on Friday to see whats good but looks like the weather over today and tomorrow will dictate where we end up !
Bigger factor is the temperature; clear skies is what we need!
Looking forward to a day out regardless of what or where it is. Haven't been out since C Gully !
We did the round of Coire Lagan on Friday. Very little snow until high on the West Ridge of Sgurr Dearg but a fair bit still around on the flatter tops. The east side of the ridge was still plastered (as the photos on your blog show) but the crest appeared to have been stripped on narrower sections.
Despite damp snow it was a great day. Collie's Ledge was exciting and the traverse round the east side of the nose of Thearlaich was excellent. The Great Stone Shoot was full from top to bottom.
Unfortunately we have no idea what the next few days of warm weather will do and whether there will be much left when the cold comes. Any thoughts?
P.S. I have a few photos of you on Flight of the Colditz Cock. They may not be much good but I can email them to you if you would like them.
Sgurr a Fionn Choire today reflects what you found. I'd guess there is going to be little change except the snow patches getting harder with the clear skies. Good news & bad I guess as less holes but a sight more serious to travel safely. Most ice has gone although Gingini icicle still just there today. Considering a Traverse this w/e if not much more strips out.
See you up there soon, Mike
PS Pics from Bla bheinn would be much appreciated; email@example.com
Unfortunately the In Pinn was totally stripped. There were a couple of large gaps in the snow on the ramp round An Stac and on Bealach Coire Lagan.
There was also rubbish in the Dearg bivvy cave: a plastic plate, a mug, two large water bottles, a gas canister and a black bin bag. We'd like to have removed it but couldn't carry it around the rest of the route.
I'll send you the Bla Bheinn photos asap.
Pinn was a delight with warm rock & no wind.
Hotel In. Pinn. had 60 litres of frozen junk water 1st time we went in; less popular now but still needs regular cleaning. Sad as almost always guided parties using it.
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