/ Positron @ Gogarth

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snoop6060 - on 11 Feb 2013
Evening all,

I'm kinda starting to get psyched about the onset of summer, and Positron is top of the list this year.

So, not really looking for specific beta, really just want to know if its safe? As there is probably a fair chance I'll be coming flying off. And if route finding is easy? As I think I've been lost on every route I've done at gogarth, well everything apart from the strand.

And what routes on gogarth would be a good tester before taking it on? I hear citadel is a better option for a first gogarth E5, I may start give that a crack. Any more E4s that provide a similar climbing to positron?

Cheers,

Si
Dan Arkle - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to snoop6060:
Positron is definitely safe, although very pumpy if you hang around to place gear. I found the main cliff E5s to be amazing, generally good rock and good gear, and great lines and atmosphere, get on them.
Dan Arkle - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to snoop6060:
The most useful advice i can give is to seek out good conditions. This generally means when the sun is on them in the afternoon, and when its windy. We had some great climbs starting at 5 or 6pm in the summer.
Goucho on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to snoop6060: It's very safe but very strenuous, so don't try and stitch it with gear, as you don't need to.

Third pitch is the big one, and the climbing and position is superb - one of the best pitches in Wales, if not the UK.

I actually think Citadel is harder, but Graduation Ceremony, Hunger, Dinosaur and of course Rat Race will give you a good flavour of Main Cliff climbing.
snoop6060 - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to Dan Arkle:

Cheers Dan, good advice. Gogarth is an amazing place at that time after a nice sunny day. Although to be honest, i'm normally utterly spanked by then, and sitting around eating pies. Though I'm closer to the big G now, so really looking forward to trying some of the harder routes this year.
Jon Stewart - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to snoop6060:
> (In reply to Dan Arkle)
>
> Cheers Dan, good advice. Gogarth is an amazing place at that time after a nice sunny day. Although to be honest, i'm normally utterly spanked by then, and sitting around eating pies.

I've never seen the bottom of Main Cliff twice in one day.
snoop6060 - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to Goucho:

> Third pitch is the big one, and the climbing and position is superb - one of the best pitches in Wales, if not the UK.
>

Wow, big praise indeed. Its a done deal now then, I won't be able to resist it.

snoop6060 - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:

You an me both, well unless the routes on the right side count! But we all know they don't.
Stig - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to snoop6060: I'll belay ya.
johncoxmysteriously - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to snoop6060:

Good advice from Dan A; if it's greasy then even the first pitch can cause issues, and that's not all that well-protected IIRC. Can't comment on the third pitch as we didn't get that far!

jcm
johncoxmysteriously - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to snoop6060)
> [...]
>
> I've never seen the bottom of Main Cliff twice in one day.

I have. Once when we set off up Bubbly Situation Blues, and then again when we abseiled back down to the bottom in the snow from half-way up the main pitch.

jcm

Neil Foster - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to Dan Arkle:
> (In reply to snoop6060)
> The most useful advice i can give is to seek out good conditions. This generally means when the sun is on them in the afternoon, and when its windy....

This is indeed the most important advice. The second most important is to not underestimate the second pitch, which probably has a harder move than anything on P3 (though the latter is definitely the crux and the real signature lead).

Neil
johncoxmysteriously - on 11 Feb 2013
In reply to Neil Foster:

>The second most important is to not underestimate the second pitch,

Using aid also works well.

jcm
andi turner - on 12 Feb 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to snoop6060)
> [...]
>
> I've never seen the bottom of Main Cliff twice in one day.

For years I've seen this is a real test and something I've never managed either!

All good advice above. Just remember to keep moving, you are on your own in pitch three, so have belayer who likes you and climb quickly. It's all there and the gear you need is excellent.
In reply to snoop6060:

Positron: You won't get lost on the main pitch, but I belayed on the right above pitch 2 and the ropes kept snagging under and upturned flake at the start of P3 - Parky wasn't best pleased. Might be better to move the stance over left.

We had already done Dinosaur in the morning - and ended up totally goosed!

I used a point of aid on the crux of Citadel - the old peg which was pretty rotten (certainly didn't want to lob on it), then lowed back down and t-red the moves - tut-tut!


Chris
snoop6060 - on 12 Feb 2013
In reply to Stig:

No probs James, you gonna take pitch 2 as well? Sounds like it could be well 'ard!
lummox - on 12 Feb 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to snoop6060)
> [...]
>
> I've never seen the bottom of Main Cliff twice in one day.

If you're a punter,it's not so hard to do a couple of routes on the Main Cliff in a day : )
ChrisC - on 12 Feb 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

> Positron: You won't get lost on the main pitch, but I belayed on the right above pitch 2 and the ropes kept snagging under and upturned flake at the start of P3 - Parky wasn't best pleased. Might be better to move the stance over left.

Same happened when I did it, ropes snagged in the spike/start of the crack causing lots of drag.

> I used a point of aid on the crux of Citadel - the old peg which was pretty rotten (certainly didn't want to lob on it), then lowed back down and t-red the moves - tut-tut!

I think a friend snapped it last year....
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duncan b - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to Dan Arkle:
> (In reply to snoop6060)
> The most useful advice i can give is to seek out good conditions. This generally means when the sun is on them in the afternoon, and when its windy.

+1. The first pitch especially can be very greasy. FWIW I thought this was was the scariest pitch (possibly because it was greasy!) with adequate but spaced gear. As I recall a full set (maybe even 2) of cams is useful for for the first pitch as they seem to sink into the kind of small clefts you tend to get on the bottom sections of main cliff. It's not like Pembroke where you can almost get away with just wires!

I thought Citadel was harder (we didn't get to the top) and as Chris says the peg on the crux is no longer there.

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