Cannot see another link to this in the BMC section so thought I'd post it (ta sasmojo for pointing it out to me).
to quote article
it's worth emphasising that the chipped rock will be extremely fragile now that it's hard patina has been removed, so climbers should avoid using the holds for the time being to prevent further damage. General good practice including using minimal chalk and tick-marks, and brushing off any remaining with a soft brush once you're finished climbing should be considered essential here as it is elsewhere.
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